sea hair
- Thread starter cremer9
- Start date
Nothing will eat hair algae once it it gets long, so a sea hair will not solve the problem. You need to manually remove what you can and perform frequent large water changes (25% weekly) to get your nitrates and phosphates down. You also need to find the source of your high nutrients (likely overfeeding) and stop it at the source.
Sent from my SM-G965U using MASC mobile app
Sent from my SM-G965U using MASC mobile app
Hopping on this thread, I've had a hair algae problem recently after successfully battling a dino outbreak. Long story but tank is low nutrient sps dominant mixed reef and I was probably overfeeding with oyster eggs and then stopped carbon dosing cold turkey and the dinos came (big mistake when I switched from kalk/vinegar to CaRx). Dinos taken care of and hair algae is present. Phosphates are now under control. Doing some physical removal and just hoping it will die back over time now that everything has stabilized.
Any thoughts here?
Any thoughts here?
Most likely. Algae control is all about keeping nitrates and phosphates low enough so it cant grow faster than your CUC can eat it and making sure your flow has no dead spots that algae can flourish. Just give any long patches a regular haircut so snails and herbivores will eat it and it should die down. If it's just in a couple spots and not taking over the tank, those areas might need more flow, so adjusting your powerhead placement and or intensity can help.
Sent from my SM-G965U using MASC mobile app
Sent from my SM-G965U using MASC mobile app
When I researched the species the sources I found said it preferred briopsys. Mine also kept getting caught in the pumps. I couldn’t cover them in a way to keep it out of them. That’s what ended up killing her.
I’ve had high no3 (20-40 range) with no algae issues but once my po4 crept up (above about 0.15) then I would see it. As others have said, it’s best to manually remove as much as you can and feed less (LRS and other frozen foods tend to be lower in phosphates than pellets). Other options to help are to start gfo (or other po4 removal media) if you haven’t already, shorten photoperiod of display lights or lessen intensity, lengthen the photoperiod of the refugium light or increase intensity (if you have one).
I’ve had high no3 (20-40 range) with no algae issues but once my po4 crept up (above about 0.15) then I would see it. As others have said, it’s best to manually remove as much as you can and feed less (LRS and other frozen foods tend to be lower in phosphates than pellets). Other options to help are to start gfo (or other po4 removal media) if you haven’t already, shorten photoperiod of display lights or lessen intensity, lengthen the photoperiod of the refugium light or increase intensity (if you have one).