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90 gallon slow and steady build

Discussion in 'Tank Builds' started by neil82, Mar 27, 2018.

  1. TheRealChrisBrown

    TheRealChrisBrown Tuna Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    4 hrs a day for the MH seems to be the consensus I got as a starting point. Then run your t5's 8-12 hours it seems like. This is what I'm going to start at next week. I think I'll run the t5's from like 8am-1pm then MH from 1pm-5pm then back to t5's from 5pm to 10pm. I'd like to slowly ramp up the MH to like 6hrs a day, so I'd either run everything at once, or cut the hours of the t5's accordingly.

    I am far from an expert on MH/t5 lighting schedules....like far far far far far....far far far....and a little further from an expert. Saturday will be my first attempt at it in probably 5 to 6 years. Hopefully some more opinions will come in...help us both out!
     
    neil82 likes this.
  2. neil82

    neil82 Cuttle Fish M.A.S.C Club Member

    I'll start out with four hours then. I was excited to learn that you are switching over to MH too. We can compare notes as we go.
     
    TheRealChrisBrown likes this.
  3. TheRealChrisBrown

    TheRealChrisBrown Tuna Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    Most definitely! If you want to get more eyes on the MH/t5 lighting schedule questions and options, maybe you are I should start a new thread? Although looking at some of the national forums last night I consistently saw 4,5,6 hours on MH and 8-12 on t5.
     
  4. MuralReef

    MuralReef Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. MASC Vice-President

    I run mine longer, but it is my primary source of light. If I had more T-5's or VHO's I would run them less. Think I decreased it from 12 down to 8 or 10 hours recently.
     
    neil82 likes this.
  5. kchristensen8064

    kchristensen8064 Prawn M.A.S.C Club Member

    I'm going to be going halide/t5 on my build off tank and my 180 whenever I can finally set it up. Are T5's typically run separately and not on when the halides are?
     
  6. TheRealChrisBrown

    TheRealChrisBrown Tuna Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    I was thinking of running them separately to help keep heat down, even if just a little. Plus it might extend the life of the t5's if you saved the hours (4,5,6,8,10 whatever the MH's are on for).

    I don't know, random thought by Chris I guess!
     
    neil82 and kchristensen8064 like this.
  7. kchristensen8064

    kchristensen8064 Prawn M.A.S.C Club Member

    Are you going to be doing a hood/canopy?
     
  8. neil82

    neil82 Cuttle Fish M.A.S.C Club Member

    I had this same question. And I had the same thought as @TheRealChrisBrown about extending the bulb life by turning them off when MH is on... I wonder what other MH/t5 folks are doing.
     
  9. SynDen

    SynDen Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. M.A.S.C President M.A.S.C Webmaster

    I would think you would want to run them together. Haven't really seen anyone do them always separated. To me it would kind of defeat the purpose of having the combo if you arent going to run them together at least for a short amount of time. I could see maybe only doing them separate if par levels were way to high with both running, but otherwise I would always do them together
     
    neil82 likes this.
  10. kchristensen8064

    kchristensen8064 Prawn M.A.S.C Club Member

    That's kind of what I was thinking. As far as temp goes if I decide to go with a canopy I was thinking about doing some of these to help keep things cool. https://www.acinfinity.com/quiet-cabinet-fans/
     
  11. neil82

    neil82 Cuttle Fish M.A.S.C Club Member

    Great idea. Let's carry on with this conversation here: http://www.marinecolorado.org/threads/metal-halide-lighting-discussion.27329/
     
  12. neil82

    neil82 Cuttle Fish M.A.S.C Club Member

    Quick update- replaced all the ceramic MH bulb sockets. Installed new bulbs and put the light up. It's been running since Sunday and the livestock seem to be responding well. Today I installed a fan to run with the lights. It's like the one you posted @kchristensen8064 . Made a mounting bracket out of acrylic to bolt it right to the light fixture. 20190119_184637-1200x1600.jpg 20190119_193351-1200x1600.jpg 20190124_150124-1600x1200.jpg 20190124_162939-1200x1600.jpg 20190124_165557-1200x1600.jpg 20190124_165610-1200x1600.jpg 20190124_165638-1200x1600.jpg
     
  13. kchristensen8064

    kchristensen8064 Prawn M.A.S.C Club Member

    Looks really good!
     
  14. zombie

    zombie Tuna M.A.S.C Club Member

    If this doesn't resolve your temp issues, I would suggest lowering or angling the fan so that the air flow hits the surface of the water. That provides much more cooling than just trying to blow hot air away from the bulbs. You can improve it even more by blowing air in an area like your sump that has a lower ambient air temp.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using MASC mobile app
     
  15. neil82

    neil82 Cuttle Fish M.A.S.C Club Member

    I'll see if the fan is effective with it's current placement. It could move down about one inch if needed. The real test will be in warm weather. I got the variable speed controller so I can crank it up if needed. That little fan moves a lot of air, but it does make a substantial amount of noise at high speed.
     
  16. SkyShark

    SkyShark Tuna Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    Great work! Do you think a second fan on the other side would help pull the air away from the tank (as opposed to blowing it back at the other fan)? Might help you not have to run the fan at full speed.


    Sent from my iPhone using MASC - Marine Aquarium Society of Colorado
     
  17. neil82

    neil82 Cuttle Fish M.A.S.C Club Member

    I do think a second fan, installed the way you described, would increase the efficiency. No doubt about it. I like the way the temp has stabilized after bringing the fan online. I adjusted my program to keep the tank between 78.5 and 79, and so far, 79.3 has been the high temp with lights/fan running. If the heat becomes an issue over the summer though, I'll have to take additional steps to mitigate.
    Screenshot_20190127-060435_Chrome.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2019
  18. zombie

    zombie Tuna M.A.S.C Club Member

    It does not unless you are adding fans to an enclosed canopy. The main source of cooling from fans is actually the evaporative cooling caused by having wind blowing across the water surface. A fan sucking has a very low wind speed across the surface and hence very low evaporative cooling.

    In the event of an enclosed canopy, using the push pull method helps because it forces the air out in a more defined path and doesn't require a pressure increase to exchange the air inside with ambient.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using MASC mobile app
     
  19. neil82

    neil82 Cuttle Fish M.A.S.C Club Member

    Good point. That makes sense. So more effective use of a second fan would be on the sump. And because the water is passing through the sump at a faster rate than the main display, would that also increase the potential for evaporative cooling? Or is that determined by the surface area of the water regardless of the turnover rate?
     
  20. zombie

    zombie Tuna M.A.S.C Club Member

    That is determined by four things.

    Temperature differential between the air and the water. (Higher better)

    Surface area of the water (higher better)

    Air speed passing over the surface area (higher better)

    Relative humidity of the ambient air (lower better)

    Sent from my SM-G965U using MASC mobile app
     
    neil82 likes this.

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