Mandarin Goby and QT

ianryd

ianryd

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
#1
I picked up a Mandarin Goby the other day. I've always wanted one and I think my tank is ready to support him. I currently have him in QT along with a melanarus wrasse. The mandarin is in a large acclimation box to ensure he has a chance to eat. He's not super quick about eating, but he does eat frozen food!
So do I go about QT as usual? Or can I put him in the DT once Im sure he will eat frozen every time. To be clear I have a healthy supply of pods and no other pod hunters in a 75. Ive heard these guys are pretty resistant to disease due to a thick slime coat.
Id like to hear how others have done it successfully!



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SynDen

SynDen

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#2
#2
If he is eating that's great, taht makes QT a lot easier, so I would leave him in QT if you can. These guys can carry quite a few bad things with them, even though they fairly hardy, with one of the worse being velvet. So, I would still keep him in qt for a month or so, and I'd run at least prazi and maybe copper as a preventive.
 
SynDen

SynDen

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#6
#6
Ah youre right, I forgot..doh
 
ianryd

ianryd

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
#8
#8
Both kind of
Balz3352 said:
There is a fairly common hypo resistant strain in the hobby. Not recommended. Is it a space or equipment issue?
Click to expand...
Mostly equipment. I dont have another tank and powerhead. I think I have an extra hob filter and heater somewhere.

Now what about his tankmate the melanarus wrasse? If there was disease wouldnt he show signs? Not that I got him for this purpose, but could I use him as a "canary"?

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ianryd

ianryd

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
#11
#11
Thanks for the offers guys! I apprecceiate it. Im in south Aurora. I have a dog training class at petco tonight, so I may just pick one up while I'm there if they're still doing their sale. Would a 10 gallon be big enough for the second tank?

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J

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#12
#12
You are going to need to decide if you are a scorched-earth type of QT person, or not. If you are, then you will need a coral QT, invert QT, algae QT and one for EVERYTHING that you put in your tank. Then, there are fish where you cannot really do this with good success like some of my favorite kind of wrasses, so you cannot keep those since they rarely make it through QT.

If you don't do all of this, then stuff will get through on inverts or corals or rock or something.

I don't QT. I have a tank where I isolate, get fish stress free, eating well and not afraid of me. I have mature, easy-going tanks with non-stressful fish and I do not have disease issues. This works for me, but does not for everybody. I have a bunch of tangs and they are not a-holes to their tank mates and when I have had hippos and PBTs, they never had spots. Low stress where they fish can fight off diesase on their own.

Either paradigm can work, but you need to figure out what works best for you.

I think that everybody know that I am a fan of using real live rock for the bio-diversity. One more reason to do this, that I had forgotten, is that Moe had written that they had studied that microfauna can consume the ich baby packet/cyst thingies that hit the rock and substrate to incubate... which is one of the meany reasons why mature and healthy tanks have less disease issues. You don't get this kind of stuff in a bacterial bottle supplement.
 
Dr.DiSilicate

Dr.DiSilicate

Great White Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
#13
#13
jda123 said:
You are going to need to decide if you are a scorched-earth type of QT person, or not. If you are, then you will need a coral QT, invert QT, algae QT and one for EVERYTHING that you put in your tank. Then, there are fish where you cannot really do this with good success like some of my favorite kind of wrasses, so you cannot keep those since they rarely make it through QT.

If you don't do all of this, then stuff will get through on inverts or corals or rock or something.

I don't QT. I have a tank where I isolate, get fish stress free, eating well and not afraid of me. I have mature, easy-going tanks with non-stressful fish and I do not have disease issues. This works for me, but does not for everybody. I have a bunch of tangs and they are not a-holes to their tank mates and when I have had hippos and PBTs, they never had spots. Low stress where they fish can fight off diesase on their own.

Either paradigm can work, but you need to figure out what works best for you.

I think that everybody know that I am a fan of using real live rock for the bio-diversity. One more reason to do this, that I had forgotten, is that Moe had written that they had studied that microfauna can consume the ich baby packet/cyst thingies that hit the rock and substrate to incubate... which is one of the meany reasons why mature and healthy tanks have less disease issues. You don't get this kind of stuff in a bacterial bottle supplement.
Click to expand...
A bot off topic but “bacteria in a bottle” is one of the top 10 products of the year and who is MOE? Lol


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