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burning through DI resin; replace RO canister?

Discussion in 'Lighting and Equipment' started by quackenbush, May 30, 2019.

  1. quackenbush

    quackenbush Copepod M.A.S.C Club Member

    In past year or so, I have been burning through a DI cartridge every 200 gallons or so. I've replaced my particle and carbon blocks twice and it's still happening. I've contact my city water people (Golden) to ask if they switched from chlorine to chloramine, and I received a very informative response about runoff and TDS and seasonal changes, but no substantial answers to my problem.

    So I'm left with changing out my RO membrane, which isn't all that expensive a fix, but I'm less than convinced that's the issue. (It's been a few years, but I don't run a heck of a lot of water through that thing, maybe 500 gallons a year...? )

    I have, in my absent mindedness, left the BRS RODI system in RO flush mode for extended periods of time (several hours) and have changed carbon and particulate blocks "as necessary." Still, even if the carbon was spent and the RO membrane blown out, I can't imagine burning through a DI cartridge so quickly. I can practically see it changing colors.

    Has anyone else experienced this? I'm perplexed.
     
  2. Dr.DiSilicate

    Dr.DiSilicate Kraken Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    No experience but would imagine you need a new to membrane. How many years have you had it?


    Sent from my iPhone using MASC - Marine Aquarium Society of Colorado
     
  3. Dr.DiSilicate

    Dr.DiSilicate Kraken Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    I do know they like to be run often rather than seldom. Not sure the science behind it but...


    Sent from my iPhone using MASC - Marine Aquarium Society of Colorado
     
  4. SynDen

    SynDen Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. M.A.S.C President M.A.S.C Webmaster

    So the first thing I would check is that the RO system is plumbed correctly. I know in the past I have hooked it up in the wrong order and doing so always made the DI expend more quickly.
    Check to be sure that the water flows in to carbon and sediment chambers first, and then flows to the membrane and last stage is the DI. If the flow is going through the DI before the membrane, then changing that will make the DI last a lot longer
     
  5. Balz3352

    Balz3352 Marlin M.A.S.C Club Member

    I make a good amount of water and was burning through di like no ones business. Eventually I started to run 3 stage di with individual cation and anion and mixed I did that probably 4 months ago and I don't even have color change yet. Where as I was changing out probably every 3rd month with color change after my first some making water (75 gallons or so.)

    Might be an option
     
  6. SkyShark

    SkyShark Tuna Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    I second this.


    Sent from my iPhone using MASC - Marine Aquarium Society of Colorado
     
  7. quackenbush

    quackenbush Copepod M.A.S.C Club Member

    It's a BRS system that's been plumbed in for a few years - no changes to the plumbing since it was installed at that time.

    Something happened about 6 months ago ... I will change the RO canister and cross my fingers.
     
  8. SynDen

    SynDen Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. M.A.S.C President M.A.S.C Webmaster

    If it is plumbed correctly then I would try adding another DI stage, as RJ suggested. I know at my house in Denver, our water is pretty high in silica, likely due to old water main pipes. I had a bad dino outbreak a while back and I ended up tracing the source to the high silica, and because I was only running one stage it was getting through and also caused the DI to expend a bit faster then it should. Once I added the extra DI canisters neither problem has been an issue since
     
  9. jda123

    jda123 Tuna M.A.S.C Club Member

    Call a real water specialist and skip BRS. Get a dow 99% and this will really help. Your GPD might/will go down, but who cares if you don't spend a fortune on RODI.

    Our water is pretty good here in Longmont, but I can get down to 1-2 TDS after just the sediment, carbon and membrane... the DI lasts a long time.
     
  10. scchase

    scchase Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    Just rub it in, I miss the days of using tap in my reef in Loveland, dang water here in Aurora is somewhere around 900 TDS out of the tap and I can get it down to around 5-10 after RO, and that is with an oversized chloramine/carbon black in front of everything.
    Do get a 99% filter though, doesn't really matter where you get it the majority are made by Dow anyways and than repackaged for reefing.
     
  11. flagg37

    flagg37 Copepod M.A.S.C Club Member

    What is your tds at the tap and what is it after the ro before it enters the di?
     

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