I have an outbreak of marine velvet in my tank. I am starting a full quarantine procedure all of the fish in my 125 gallon tank. Does anyone have any experiences with this disease they would like to share? I will be updating this every couple of days with the procedure that I am using and the results of the treatment. If anyone has any words of wisdom before I start, it would be much appreciated.
Marine Velvet Treatment
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I once had a velvet outbreak in my tank. Lost all but a few fish. By the time we realized what had happened, it was too late for QT to even help. That's when I implemented the "no new fish without QT first" policy. I waited as long as humanly possible to buy more fish. From that point on, I looked for well-established fish that had been in someone's tank for some time, and tried to avoid fresh-caught fish. And, as I said, every new fish went into QT, even if it meant setting the QT tank up with sand that would get thrown away later. I know that doesn't help you now, but that's my experience with it. Velvet is nasty and quick, so it's really hard to save the fish.
Quarantine tank is all set up. Unfortunately, the temp is still 4 degrees below the display temp, so I will have to wait to start QT until tomorrow. The wrasses condition has not gotten any worse since last night, so hopefully he will make it. No other fish are showing symptoms but will be treated anyway.
I am sure that you are past wanting to try hypo, but if not, then forget it - copper is the only way to go. I might suggest that you get the decorations out the tank - they probably won't absorb any copper, but if they do, then they will set you back and are not worth the risk... copper will bind to more than most people know rendering it useless. PCV is the best. Once you get the fish in the QT, up the temp by 2 degrees and get the cycle on the fish going faster. Let your tank sit fish-free for 2 months just to be sure. You have to get all of the fish out of the tank. Get a good copper test kit. Be careful on your feedings - more fish die of ammonia poisoning in QT than of disease since people set them up too late and rush to get fish into them. I might suggest having some fresh mixed/heated salt on had for an emergency water change.
If you have any fish that will not like a sterile QT tank (wrasses, mandarin), then that could be trouble. Not all fish are QT'able.
If you have any fish that will not like a sterile QT tank (wrasses, mandarin), then that could be trouble. Not all fish are QT'able.
The issue with using sand is that it does absorb copper and you may have issues getting the tank to a stable, consistent level for an effective treatment...you can dose the recommended amount and still get a low concentration of copper when you test the water. Another concern is that if the pH in the tank decreases, then there's a very good chance that the copper you dosed that was absorbed by the sand will be released into the water column, causing a spike in your copper which would likely kill the fish in the tank.
In short...you're walking the tight-rope dosing a QT tank with copper and a sandbed.
In short...you're walking the tight-rope dosing a QT tank with copper and a sandbed.
No sand it is then. I'll gladly take the risk of a bit more stress on the wrasse to prevent a copper spike.
I think I'll give the decorations a couple hour test run before O take them out. Use half dose of copper. Wait 30 min test. Wait another hour and test again. If there is a change in levels, the decorations will go and be replaced with a plethora of pvc fittings.
I think I'll give the decorations a couple hour test run before O take them out. Use half dose of copper. Wait 30 min test. Wait another hour and test again. If there is a change in levels, the decorations will go and be replaced with a plethora of pvc fittings.
Aragonite sand will bond to copper no matter what you do - the fresher the sand, the better. Silica sand will not bind copper, but can somewhat irritate wrasse body or slime coats or whatever.
There is no good option - some fish are just not QT'able. However, if they are already established, they might have a better chance.
Halchlories and other wrasses will still have the disease in their gills and mouths even if they show no signs on their bodies. They can re-infect the tank.
There is no good option - some fish are just not QT'able. However, if they are already established, they might have a better chance.
Halchlories and other wrasses will still have the disease in their gills and mouths even if they show no signs on their bodies. They can re-infect the tank.
I am going through a Marine Velvet issue in one of my tanks as well. It was brought in on some coral.
I have a QT tank set up and am running Cupramine. I agree that you should use PVC and get rid of your decorations. However, Cupramine is bonded to a protein and thus is much less likely to bind to the glass, decorations, etc.
Regarding dosage, I would recommend dosing over 4 days instead of 2 days as the instructions on the bottle says. I lost my Lineatus Wrasse, I think due to the initial shock of the medication. Looking online others have experienced similar losses. It seems like Seachem even agrees as their FAQ changes what's printed on the bottle.
I tried several different copper test kits, they are all pretty bad (hard to read). I found that the Seachem test kit sucks the least.
Anyway, I hope this helps. Don't hesitate to PM me if you have any questions as I am going through this as well. Done with my Copper treatment and am currently waiting 72 days while the infected tank sits fallow.
I have a QT tank set up and am running Cupramine. I agree that you should use PVC and get rid of your decorations. However, Cupramine is bonded to a protein and thus is much less likely to bind to the glass, decorations, etc.
Regarding dosage, I would recommend dosing over 4 days instead of 2 days as the instructions on the bottle says. I lost my Lineatus Wrasse, I think due to the initial shock of the medication. Looking online others have experienced similar losses. It seems like Seachem even agrees as their FAQ changes what's printed on the bottle.
I tried several different copper test kits, they are all pretty bad (hard to read). I found that the Seachem test kit sucks the least.
Anyway, I hope this helps. Don't hesitate to PM me if you have any questions as I am going through this as well. Done with my Copper treatment and am currently waiting 72 days while the infected tank sits fallow.
So far got 3 of the 11 fish out over the last 3 hours. Im gonna be here a while at this rate. Hopefully my plethora of traps will eventually get their attention.
I was able to get the carpenter that was showing problems into QT. Gave him a freshwater dip for 6 minutes at 1.01 SG and released into QT. He is showing some improvement as his breathing is down from 100 bpm to 80 bpm. The dip must have provided some temporary releif.
The melanarus is not liking the idea of no sandbed and has been almost frantically searching for a safe place for the last hour. Well see if that improves over the next day.
I was able to get the carpenter that was showing problems into QT. Gave him a freshwater dip for 6 minutes at 1.01 SG and released into QT. He is showing some improvement as his breathing is down from 100 bpm to 80 bpm. The dip must have provided some temporary releif.
The melanarus is not liking the idea of no sandbed and has been almost frantically searching for a safe place for the last hour. Well see if that improves over the next day.