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Old Tunze pumps?

Discussion in 'Tunze Powerheads' started by MuralReef, Feb 20, 2019.

  1. MuralReef

    MuralReef Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. MASC Vice-President

    So I have a couple of old Tunze pumps and the outer covering of the wires was cracked leading into the pumps. I covered it with silicone and allowed it to cure for over a week. Note: I did not have any stray voltage when using them before I knew that part of the wiring was exposed. I have run them in water and done the touch test and lived and also tested with a multimeter and no stray voltage. I double checked a D-cell and that had measurable voltage so I know the multimeter was working. Would you guys use these or not?
     
  2. jda123

    jda123 Tuna M.A.S.C Club Member

    I would.

    They are DC (well, very low voltage AC like all "DC" pumps are) and the wires go all the way into the epoxy - the outer wire covering is of no consequence. If no stray current, then you are good to go.
     
    MuralReef likes this.
  3. TheRealChrisBrown

    TheRealChrisBrown Marlin Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    I have an original gyre 150 with exposed wiring....I like your silicone fix. Mine keeps passing the touch test, lol
     
    MuralReef likes this.
  4. MuralReef

    MuralReef Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. MASC Vice-President

    Thanks guys! I’ll drop them in tomorrow.


    Sent from my iPhone using MASC - Marine Aquarium Society of Colorado
     
  5. jda123

    jda123 Tuna M.A.S.C Club Member

    Which ones do you have? I still have 6100s running. ...been over a decade now. The only time that I clean them is when the coralline gets so thick that it shuts down the flow.

    This is before a Muratic Acid bath:
    [​IMG]
     
  6. MuralReef

    MuralReef Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. MASC Vice-President

    Same ones. Just hoping to add some flow without buying anything.


    Sent from my iPhone using MASC - Marine Aquarium Society of Colorado
     
  7. jda123

    jda123 Tuna M.A.S.C Club Member

    I have a bunch of controllers and spare parts if you ever need any. They don't really break, so you probably never will. :)
     
  8. MuralReef

    MuralReef Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. MASC Vice-President

    I’ve got the controller too but I’ll probably just run them off of the apex since I have the connections. Thanks for the feedback and the offer! Pretty sure I’m good on parts too. I’ll definitely hit you up if I need something.


    Sent from my iPhone using MASC - Marine Aquarium Society of Colorado
     
  9. MuralReef

    MuralReef Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. MASC Vice-President

    Got them up and running this morning, but they definitely are not as powerful as I remember them. But they work and nobody is getting shocked to death and it will give me more flow which I think I desperately need.
     
    TheRealChrisBrown likes this.
  10. SkyShark

    SkyShark Tuna Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    Off topic, but what’s the logic behind using muriatic acid vs vinegar? Is one better or worse for the plastic? Cheaper?
     
  11. MuralReef

    MuralReef Shark Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. MASC Vice-President

    It is stronger and cheap. It is HCl and is sold at hardware stores.
     
  12. jda123

    jda123 Tuna M.A.S.C Club Member

    Vinegar would not even made a dent in that pump. Muratic Acid is like driving a freight train through a brick wall whereas vinegar is a sledge hammer. Muratic needs to be handled carefully, but if you can do this, then it works a lot better, is cheaper and does not have any risk of leaving any organic carbon behind to fuel a bacterial bloom.

    You can usually get a pair of 1 gallon containers at the hardware store for between 7 and 10 dollars.
     
  13. SkyShark

    SkyShark Tuna Staff Member M.A.S.C Club Member M.A.S.C. B.O.D. B.O.D. Member-at-Large

    Good to know. I’ve always been a bit apprehensive about using it. Hadn’t considered the possibility of leftover organic carbon from vinegar. I typically leave the pump in vinegar overnight for tough coralline. How long do you recommend soaking in the acid?
     
  14. jda123

    jda123 Tuna M.A.S.C Club Member

    Most of the coralline that I have would like be trying to dissolve a piece of coral... it is thick and in plates. Usually an hour works, but sometimes overnight... it depends on how much you use. For a pump with just some surface coralline, then a few minutes and a scrub with a toothbrush will work. That coralline on that pump was probably a year of buildup, or so. From what I have found, Tunze pumps don't get bothered by much, but this one was almost completely encased in the coralline and flow was significantly reduced - cannot blame German engineering for that.

    You can also use Muratic Acid to lower the dKh in your freshly mixed salt. Gallons * desired dKh drop * .123 is the amount of MLs of Muratic Acid to use. I use this to lower the alk in my IO. It will drop the pH, so you have to aerate for a day to drive off the co2. There is no need to buy an expensive salt just because the alk is where you want it.

    I have never had the acid harm anything, but I also do not use any cheap equipment.

    Handle muratic acid like Kalkwasser... don't breathe the fumes, use in a well ventilated area, pour in the water (not water into the acid), eye protection and keep it off of your skin. It is not death in a bottle - you can get it at Home Depot and there are far worst substances there - but you cannot be an idiot either.
     

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