DIY stand questions

neil82

Sting ray
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#22
Poplar is a relatively good wood for comabating rot. (Better than pine or spruce). You could potentially put a layer of that where the stand meets the floor. Incorporate that into the base and then paint it to match.

Also, I like to leave some openings where water cant get trapped long term under the stand. Spills are inevitable but it’s better if the wood has a chance to dry out.
Thanks for the idea about using poplar. Maybe I should add a layer around the bottom. I also like your thought on getting the frame up off the ground so that water can't get trapped between the stand and tile floor. The weight is primary transferred down to the four corners, so I think the rest of the frame would be fine off the ground. How could I do this? I'm thinking along the lines of four 'feet' on the corners. Out of poplar?
 

SynDen

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#23
That looks good and sturdy. Good work
 

halmus

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#24
I was going to suggest you cut squares (4”x4” or 6”x6”) or triangles and secure them to the corners underneath. My only concern (I edited my initial post from suggesting that) is that you’re placing this on tile. If the tile isn’t fully supported by grout underneath and you create a pressure point, you might crack the tile.
 

neil82

Sting ray
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#25
I was going to suggest you cut squares (4”x4” or 6”x6”) or triangles and secure them to the corners underneath. My only concern (I edited my initial post from suggesting that) is that you’re placing this on tile. If the tile isn’t fully supported by grout underneath and you create a pressure point, you might crack the tile.
I think this sounds like a good idea. I'm going to brainstorm on this for a bit. The tiles should be getting full support from the mortar below. I installed the tile over a consistent layer of mortar applied with a trowel that has teeth to set the depth. Thanks for helping me get the gears turning on this. Trying to get this done right the first time.
 

neil82

Sting ray
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#26
That looks good and sturdy. Good work
Thanks Angel. I'll get a build thread going soon. This setup won't be all that sexy. Standard 90 gallon tank with frame. DIY stand. Black box LEDs. Limited automation. Primary goals are: simplicity, reliability, low cost of operation and maintenance. I'll have an apex to control the heater for redundancy and battery backup for the vortech pumps, but overall, limited reliance on technology. Not at all trying to knock the high tech setups out there though. Just not the path I am taking this go round.
 

flagg37

Anthias
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#27
For construction adhesive I only use the PL Premium one. I used liquid nails for a long time but then around 2006 or so they switched their formula to be more epa friendly and now I find it doesn’t work nearly as good as it used to. Nice job on the pocket screws. I’ll typically run a bead of adhesive along each rough element that I’m screwing/nailing. The PL has just a bit of flex to it so it can move slightly with temperature and moisture changes. Regular yellow wood glue dries hard and is super strong too but if the joint is jarred and breaks the glue bond then it’s useless. The PL is more forgiving in this situation.
 

neil82

Sting ray
M.A.S.C Club Member
#28
For construction adhesive I only use the PL Premium one. I used liquid nails for a long time but then around 2006 or so they switched their formula to be more epa friendly and now I find it doesn’t work nearly as good as it used to. Nice job on the pocket screws. I’ll typically run a bead of adhesive along each rough element that I’m screwing/nailing. The PL has just a bit of flex to it so it can move slightly with temperature and moisture changes. Regular yellow wood glue dries hard and is super strong too but if the joint is jarred and breaks the glue bond then it’s useless. The PL is more forgiving in this situation.
Hey thanks for the heads up on the glue.
 

neil82

Sting ray
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#31
It has 1/2 inch ply on the back so that should add some rigidity. I was going to use some really thin ply on the sides, but could use 1/2 inch if needed for strength. The front will have removable doors attached with magnets. Does the stand look sturdy enough? Think I need the top frame cross member as shown in blue in the picture in 1st post of this thread? Not sure why I am second guessing this now...
 

SynDen

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#32
Looks good and solid to me. Dont think you need to do thick plywood, that thing is beefy enough.
 

neil82

Sting ray
M.A.S.C Club Member
#33
Looks good and solid to me. Dont think you need to do thick plywood, that thing is beefy enough.
Okay, then I will carry on. Getting close to finishing up the stand. I'll wait on the front doors until the tank is up and running .
 

Smiley

Nurse Shark
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#34
just build it with 2x4's, prime it with kilz, and paint it.. should never rot...that layout is the best for stand building... dont need the center brace.... also build it to eye level when your are looking at the tank. build it too tall, cant see while sitting in a chair...or too short and you bend down to view it when standing.... also keep in mind the amount of room you have to do maintenance in the sump below. removing skimmer cup, cleaning.. etc... nothing worse than building a stand and realizing it should have been bigger....sucks!
 

neil82

Sting ray
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#37
Looking for a good product to finish the butcher block with. Something to seal it up and protect against moisture. Any suggestions?
 
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