Red Cyano (red slime)

ReeferMatt

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
So a month ago or so I picked up a frag from someone who shall remain nameless...LOL, knowing his tank had a bad outbreak of cyano. Well here we are a little ways down the road and now I have a problem with it! Anyone ever try Chemiclean or have any luck with other methods of attack? I am going to have to get my water checked out, I I don't have a test kit for phosphates, but my pH is a little low and my nitrites are a little high... I do weekly 15% water changes... this sucks, any help would be great!!
 

Wicked Color

Tiger Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#2
Cyano is present in almost every marine system, doubtful it came from said frag.
I have used chemi clean many times with no ill effect, just make sure to siphon any easily removed slime, and do a big WC after the treatment.
 

ReeferMatt

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#4
Ok, Chemiclean ordered, I may have to find somewhere to get some RO water for the WC after I treat, and I think I'll run by aqua medic and get my water tested today. My water smells a bit, I thought i just had too much Chaeto in the sump but now I'm wondering if I should run some carbon.
 

tlsrcs

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
I had a nasty cyano out break a month or two back. It made my water smell horrible. But I just manually removed it and did a few dark.days and it went away in about 2 weeks.
 

djkms

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#6
I agree with Aaron, cyano is present in just about every marine system. Not sure why you want to use a chemical to rid yourself of the bacteria. IMO it will just come back unless you get to the root of the problem. Cyano tends to grow in areas of low flow and places where detritus settles. If you have a decent amount of fish compared to the size of your aquarium cyano is pretty much unavoidable. Medium to high bioload = lots of detritus. Cyano feeds on detritus.

I get cyano even after a year and a half into my current setup and I am anal about my husbandry. I have a high bioload and feed heavily which attributes to the problem. I do not and never will use chemiclean to rid myself of the problem. What are the long term effects of using chemiclean in your system? Does the chemiclean bind to the rocks, silicon and other parts of the system which can lead to problems down the road? I don't know but im not willing to bet my fully stocked aquarium on it. What about short term effects. Have you done your homework on the product? You do know that it strips the oxygen out of your system right? Better have high flow and good surface agitation before using it. What is your plan after using the chemiclean? All that dead cyano has to go somewhere. Its going to go back into the water column as PO4 and a lesser extent NO3. What are your plans to remove the increased nutrients? A 20% water change aint gonna cut it. You see why I don't like it. There are just too many unknowns and essentially your just converting the cyano back into food to feed new cyano.

So how do I deal with it? Well for starters I love my fish. Not going to get rid of any of them to lower the bioload. What about feeding less? Nope, not gonna starve my fish so my tank looks pretty. So without lowering the bioload and reducing feeding the only option I have is to deal with it, which I have done for a while now. For starters I do weekly tank maintenance on Sundays. Every Sunday I take a small powerhead and use it to blow the detritus off of the rocks. I have a diamond goby who sifts the sand which keeps the bed clean from cyano. My fuges on the other hand are detritus traps so I manually remove cyano when I can. It still tends to build up over time so about every 3 or so months I do a 3 day lights out and this kills it all off along with other micro nuisance algae's. During the lights out and for a week longer I double my vodka/vinegar dosage and run GFO to deal with the extra nutrients, water change schedule increased to weekly instead of biweekly for 1 month.

This is what works for me, your mileage may vary. There is no such thing as a quick fix in this hobby so make sure you know what your getting into before doing it. Chemiclean does in fact kill cyano but it can also have some serious side effects if not used properly. Just make sure to research and research some more before using it to avoid any casualties.
 

ReeferMatt

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#7
Ok, so today I cleaned my skimmer, manually removed all the cyano I could see, added an old rio 2100 I had lying around to my fuge to get that detritus death trap circulating and hooked up the old magnum 350 to get some carbon going. I do not Vodka dose and will do some research into it. I also want to look into 2 part calcium and alk dosing as I know I need to and it should help me get my pH back on track, also I know I need to look into a bigger protein skimmer and a RO/DI filter. One piece at a time of course as I am a student and well, lets face it I'm usually broke :)
 

ReeferMatt

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#9
Hmmm, so I have enough $$ saved up to either:
A: Replace my crappy 4 month old Odysea t5 bulbs (10k and actinics) with ATI bulbs.
B: Upgrade my skimmer (presently running one rated for a 55g on my 90G)
C: Buy a RO/DI system (although I have been told that the water in Loveland is good enough that few people here use one)
 

303travism

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#10
You might look into increasing your flow and cut back on feeding some I crashed my tank trying to get rid of it using chemicals I currently only have a little bit in my fug and I just increased flow.
 

ReeferMatt

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#11
I added two Hydor 1050's to my tank and a rio 2100 to my sump, so flow is much better now :)
 

303travism

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#12
Are you getting it on rocks or just sand?
 

Wicked Color

Tiger Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#13
flow is a good addition but..... once nutrients begin to build they saturate the sand and rock, and once you add flow to dead areas you allow additional organic break down, water changes will remove small percentages of the current unbound nutrient load but... you will need significant filtration changes, or different means of dealing with the nutrient load, lessening feeding, removing livestock, or very frequent water changes.
 

ReeferMatt

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#15
Funny thing is it doesn't grow on rocks or sand... only on dead branch coral and on a macro algae I have on some of my rock. I don't think it is my bio load, I have a 90 gallon tank and a 55 gallon sump (perhaps 110 gallons actual system volume) and my livestock consists 2 maroon and gold clowns, 1 purple psudochromis, 1 ruby head fairy wrasse and a small 6 line wrasse. feeding may have gotten a bit out of hand... hard to tell as I switched from frozen foods every other day to omega one pellets daily.
 

ReeferMatt

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#17
I looked at Vodka dosing, just not sure it is for me, at least not with my underpowered skimmer.
 

ReeferMatt

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#18
Wicked Demon;163833 said:
Its symbiotic with some filamentous type algae.
Hmmm, I have been battling that macro algae on and off for a long time. At this point I just keep it minimal, I half suspect it is dying and that is why the cyano is growing on it. I keep thinking maybe a yellow eye kole tang would eat it, but tangs so far have left it alone as it is really tough for them pull off.
 
#19
I would absolutely upgrade your skimmer, go at least plus one, something in the range of 120g or 150g rated. That will solve many problems by itself.
 
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