Rodi

[N1tew0lf1212]

What is everyone doing as far as cleaning? When do you all clean it up? What process do you use? How do you all process the new filtration and for how long when you replace filters? When do you deep clean your unit and what is your process? What are you using to mix? What units is everyone using? Do specific units require more cleaning then others? What precautions do you make to be sure everything is functioning correctly? How often are you replacing filters? How to properly test pressure through the unit? All questions that have so many different answers so I figured why not post this up and see what and how people are doing it....comment with your process and list your steps when cleaning and replacing filters and resin for the best rodi results.

 

[SynDen]

I use a Typhoon Extreme III from air water and ice, but I have heavily modded it to include 2 extra DI stages (so has 3 DI stage in total) and an extra membrane, which makes it a 300gpd unit. Luckily I have excellent pressure at my house so I haven't needed to add a booster pump. Generally though if you add an extra membrane you need to add a booster.

The unit has a pressure gauge on it that is inline and follows the membrane stage and after the second membrane the pressure still measures 65psi which is just a little over the minimum. If it were to drop any further I would need to add a booster.

My whole system is plumbed so the waste line dumps into my front yard drip sprinkler system too. The only time I have put the waste down the drain is during the winter, but otherwise all my waste water helps water my yard.

Can't say I have ever done a deep clean on the system and I have been using it for about 10 years now. As far a filter replacements go I change out the sediment and carbon filter about every 500 gallons produced, and I change the DI in the first canister when ever the color change indicates to do so, which is about every 300-400g. The other 2 DI canisters get changed out as needed too, but as long as you keep up on the 1st DI you don't need to change the others very often.

The reason I run 3 DI stages is because my area has very high levels of silicates in the water column, likely due to old clay water pipes from the city into my house. When I ran only a single Di some of those silicates could get by the filter and ended up in my tank which caused a huge Dyno problem after it built up. Now I run 3 to make sure none of that has any chance of getting in the tank.

I think in all the years I have been running the system I have only changed the membranes twice. Membranes for the most part last for year. I check the tds before and after every time I run the system. If TDS starts to rise and all the filters have been exchanged for new ones, then that is a pretty good indicator that its time to change the membrane

 

[N1tew0lf1212]

I use a Typhoon Extreme III from air water and ice, but I have heavily modded it to include 2 extra DI stages (so has 3 DI stage in total) and an extra membrane, which makes it a 300gpd unit. Luckily I have excellent pressure at my house so I haven't needed to add a booster pump. Generally though if you add an extra membrane you need to add a booster.

The unit has a pressure gauge on it that is inline and follows the membrane stage and after the second membrane the pressure still measures 65psi which is just a little over the minimum. If it were to drop any further I would need to add a booster.

My whole system is plumbed so the waste line dumps into my front yard drip sprinkler system too. The only time I have put the waste down the drain is during the winter, but otherwise all my waste water helps water my yard.

Can't say I have ever done a deep clean on the system and I have been using it for about 10 years now. As far a filter replacements go I change out the sediment and carbon filter about every 500 gallons produced, and I change the DI in the first canister when ever the color change indicates to do so, which is about every 300-400g. The other 2 DI canisters get changed out as needed too, but as long as you keep up on the 1st DI you don't need to change the others very often.

The reason I run 3 DI stages is because my area has very high levels of silicates in the water column, likely due to old clay water pipes from the city into my house. When I ran only a single Di some of those silicates could get by the filter and ended up in my tank which caused a huge Dyno problem after it built up. Now I run 3 to make sure none of that has any chance of getting in the tank.

I think in all the years I have been running the system I have only changed the membranes twice. Membranes for the most part last for year. I check the tds before and after every time I run the system. If TDS starts to rise and all the filters have been exchanged for new ones, then that is a pretty good indicator that its time to change the membrane

Thank you for the detailed list. I hope others chime in so we can have multiple view points and Info. The more people we can get the more people we can help in the long run. @MuralReef @Dr.DiSilicate mind describing your systems. @Rigo07
@TheRealChrisBrown having some diversity with different Colorado cities and areas would be great.

 

[Smiley]

I change my prefilter about every month, my carbon filters about every 4 months, and my membranes once a year. Di resin when the color changes which is currently about every 6 months as well. .my waste line feeds my planted tetra tank and my jack dempsey tank, those both drain to the sewer..

 

[N1tew0lf1212]

my waste line feeds my planted tetra tank and my jack dempsey tank, those both drain to the sewer..

How is your system set up. What system do you have. Any routine maintenance schedules to keep it in tip top shape? The more info the better. Glad your back at it by the way. I'll have some frags shortly from stuff causing shading and would not mind getting you a few.

 

[Smiley]

ahh sorry, i have the brs 5 stage ro/di with dual membranes. The water in Loveland seems to be pretty good but my prefilters turn brown real quick... i still get some red bacteria in my wc barrel, but the tds claims to be at 52 in and zero out.

 

[N1tew0lf1212]

ahh sorry, i have the brs 5 stage ro/di with dual membranes. The water in Loveland seems to be pretty good but my prefilters turn brown real quick... i still get some red bacteria in my wc barrel, but the tds claims to be at 52 in and zero out.

Awesome stuff. I live in Loveland as well. We will have to get together sometime.

 

[N1tew0lf1212]

ahh sorry, i have the brs 5 stage ro/di with dual membranes. The water in Loveland seems to be pretty good but my prefilters turn brown real quick... i still get some red bacteria in my wc barrel, but the tds claims to be at 52 in and zero out.

Are you having to use a booster pump to get it dialed in flow wise or is the water pressure at a good level.