Syn's 850g.t.v Deep Brain system
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SynDen
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Well Rancos come in 24v or 120/240v versions. I ordered the later. The Circulation pump for the heating is a 115v and the 2 valves are both 24v. In the case of the heating, when the temp drops I would want the pump and the valve to both turn on. and in the case of the cooling system its just the 24v valve that would need to turn on. Not sure I can make that unit work for both heating and cooling given the different voltages for those, but then electrical stuff always confuses me. Thinking that maybe I need to order a single stage 120v and a single stage 24v, instead of the two stage 120v I did order
http://controltrends.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Ranco-ETC.pdf
http://controltrends.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Ranco-ETC.pdf
The 120V vs 24V is just what powers the unit. If you want it to run off the same 24V supply as the valve system and don't want to wire a suicide cord to it, then you need the 24V version. If you aren't bothered by needing to wire a suicide cord to it, it will still work.
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SynDen
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If you post the documentation for the valves, I can draw you up a diagram for how to make it work with either option and what else may be required.
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Agree with Zombie that the Specs refer to input voltage. However, I’m not seeing any way to make it work without external circuitry.
When it’s in a “heating” state, it’s essentially closing an internal relay which makes a connection between common and normally-open. When the relay is not energized, it’s making a connection between common and normally-closed. Just like a light switch completing a circuit.
You’re trying to turn on two separate circuits with the same internal relay which are different voltages. I don’t see how a suicide cord (cord with male fittings on both ends) fixes that problem. However, I’m probably missing something. Zombie, I love learning new things, so a “back of the envelope” circuit diagram would go a long way.
Otherwise, the only way I can see this working is to build a circuit that uses the Ranco’s internal relays to energize two external relays: one for 120VAC and one for 24VAC. A switch to turn on a switch.
When it’s in a “heating” state, it’s essentially closing an internal relay which makes a connection between common and normally-open. When the relay is not energized, it’s making a connection between common and normally-closed. Just like a light switch completing a circuit.
You’re trying to turn on two separate circuits with the same internal relay which are different voltages. I don’t see how a suicide cord (cord with male fittings on both ends) fixes that problem. However, I’m probably missing something. Zombie, I love learning new things, so a “back of the envelope” circuit diagram would go a long way.
Otherwise, the only way I can see this working is to build a circuit that uses the Ranco’s internal relays to energize two external relays: one for 120VAC and one for 24VAC. A switch to turn on a switch.
The outputs are dry contacts like a light switch.
The input voltage of the controller powers the relays and the head unit so no extra circuitry is required.
The valves will require a 24V power supply in either case, but the rating of that supply and whether it needs to be a simple wallwart or a regulated switching power supply like your computer uses will depend entirely on the valves.
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The input voltage of the controller powers the relays and the head unit so no extra circuitry is required.
The valves will require a 24V power supply in either case, but the rating of that supply and whether it needs to be a simple wallwart or a regulated switching power supply like your computer uses will depend entirely on the valves.
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SynDen
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They are standard sprinkler sch80 valves. and wire something like this
View attachment 14011
Although now that I think about it, I think I can take out the one valve that is for heating and just use the pump. Originally I had thought to install the hot water circulation pump on the hot water heater. It would then be run 24/7 and circulate the hot water for the whole house. That way I would just use the valve to turn on the heating system for the tank, but I didnt like the idea of the pump running 24/7, as that could be a bit wasteful. So instead I am putting the pump on the tank heat line only, so that I can turn it on when I need to heat the tank and not have to waste the energy of running it all the time. Doing that kind of eliminates the need for the other valve I think.
So in that case I only need the pump wired for the heating and the other sprinkler valve wired for the cooling lines.
View attachment 14011
Although now that I think about it, I think I can take out the one valve that is for heating and just use the pump. Originally I had thought to install the hot water circulation pump on the hot water heater. It would then be run 24/7 and circulate the hot water for the whole house. That way I would just use the valve to turn on the heating system for the tank, but I didnt like the idea of the pump running 24/7, as that could be a bit wasteful. So instead I am putting the pump on the tank heat line only, so that I can turn it on when I need to heat the tank and not have to waste the energy of running it all the time. Doing that kind of eliminates the need for the other valve I think.
So in that case I only need the pump wired for the heating and the other sprinkler valve wired for the cooling lines.
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I'd have to check the specific brand I ended up with but something very similar to this
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfo...MIn6b_wf2G4AIV1x6tBh2rwwR1EAQYASABEgIZ3vD_BwE
Its a pump that is specifically designed to circulate the hot water in a house so you can make it so you have hot water on demand
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https://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfo...MIn6b_wf2G4AIV1x6tBh2rwwR1EAQYASABEgIZ3vD_BwE
Its a pump that is specifically designed to circulate the hot water in a house so you can make it so you have hot water on demand
Sent from my Nexus 6 using MASC mobile app
Are you planning on running your apex for this? If so, you just need a 24V power supply that is at least 0.5A rating (assumes you got the correct 24VDC and not 24VAC valves. They make both kinds). You would wire - to the - on the valve, + to NO on the ranco and C from the ranco to the + on the valve.
The pump could just plug in your apex. If you aren't running your apex for this, you need to wire a suicide cord to both the line input terminals and to an outlet that you could conduit together into the ranco. The neutral wire would connect to the N on the line terminals and the neutral of the outlet. The hot wire would connect to the 120V terminal and the NO on one stage. The C of that stage would be wired to the hot terminal on the outlet. The ground of your suicide cord needs to hit the outlet and the ranco casing.
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The pump could just plug in your apex. If you aren't running your apex for this, you need to wire a suicide cord to both the line input terminals and to an outlet that you could conduit together into the ranco. The neutral wire would connect to the N on the line terminals and the neutral of the outlet. The hot wire would connect to the 120V terminal and the NO on one stage. The C of that stage would be wired to the hot terminal on the outlet. The ground of your suicide cord needs to hit the outlet and the ranco casing.
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No apex at this time, just the ranco. Apex currently attached to my 75g and won’t be integrated to this system for sometime since they are in different areas of the house. Ultimately it will be, with the ranco as a backup, but for the next year or so, the apex will remain where it is.
Thinking though, that ya, going to return this ranco and instead order 2 single stage units, one 24v, for cooling, and other a 120v, for the hot water pump
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Thinking though, that ya, going to return this ranco and instead order 2 single stage units, one 24v, for cooling, and other a 120v, for the hot water pump
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So finally got around to setting up the frag and coral qt tank. I made this tank sometime back, out of scrap glass I had around, but never got around to get it up and running. Was needing light for it, which I managed to acquire a couple kessils at Reefstock that will fit it perfect. Threw a few rocks from the curing tank in there, added a little fish food, and its off and running. Now just wait for it to cycle, then Ill start moving some of the corals from my 75g
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Glad I added the flanges for the close loop outlets as I apparently over tightened one of the bulk heads when I reassbled after putting the sheet of plywood under the tank.
Will have to order another bulkhead now but at least I don't have to drain the whole thing View attachment 16549
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Will have to order another bulkhead now but at least I don't have to drain the whole thing View attachment 16549
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Thanks @MuralReef for the loaner pump, that was just what it needed. Tank is officially online!!! Just freshwater atm, for leak and system checks. Still gotta get the 2 closed loops running this weekend, but then let it sit and run for a week or two. After that it's draining, and then fill with rock and sand. Then finally can start the cycle.
Ordered 200# of sand the other day. That with what I had brings it to a bit over 300 pounds. Might need some more but will have to see. Will need to wash it all next weekend. That should be quite the chore.
Ordered 200# of sand the other day. That with what I had brings it to a bit over 300 pounds. Might need some more but will have to see. Will need to wash it all next weekend. That should be quite the chore.
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Ha, I'll keep that in mind if I need more.
In the mean time, the view from my desk chair is improving hourly
Did find that the strainers I had for the closed loop are to restrictive to the flow and causes a bunch of micro bubbles to occur. Flow great without the strainers but won't work with them, so I will need to come up with something else for that. Thinking I might be able to print a larger strainer to fit in the 4" flanges around the bulkheads
Ocean motion is working great on the closed loops. I've been sitting here watching the particulates in the water dance around in a nice random fashion.
View attachment 16974
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In the mean time, the view from my desk chair is improving hourly
Did find that the strainers I had for the closed loop are to restrictive to the flow and causes a bunch of micro bubbles to occur. Flow great without the strainers but won't work with them, so I will need to come up with something else for that. Thinking I might be able to print a larger strainer to fit in the 4" flanges around the bulkheads
Ocean motion is working great on the closed loops. I've been sitting here watching the particulates in the water dance around in a nice random fashion.
View attachment 16974
Sent from my Nexus 6 using MASC mobile app