LED Group buy!

hooked

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
S.C.M.A.S BOD
How are the pots working on your dimmable drivers? Mine are not very linear. I have almost no adjustment until the very end, then Bang, full on. Initially I thought that I had dirty contacts. cleaned them and no change. Anyone else finding that yours are the same way? I'm looking into a suitable replacement to try and get more adjustability out of mine.
 

QLe

Turbo Snail
I got a 25ohm and it works okay. 10k does not work. I am currently working on a dimmable from the arduino. The driver is current control and is not a voltage control. So i'm building a current controller instead, the bad news is, I can't get up to 680mA, I manage to only get 610 or 620 at best.
 

Crit21

Butterfly Fish
hooked;85119 said:
How are the pots working on your dimmable drivers? Mine are not very linear. I have almost no adjustment until the very end, then Bang, full on. Initially I thought that I had dirty contacts. cleaned them and no change. Anyone else finding that yours are the same way? I'm looking into a suitable replacement to try and get more adjustability out of mine.
It's more of a function of the LEDs. They have to reach a certain voltage before current passes through them and they turn on, meaning the instant they come on they're at a level of brightness that's more like medium. The only way to get the full range of brightness between OFF and full power is with pulse width modulation.
 

that0neguy1126

Registered Users
M.A.S.C Club Member
QLe;85120 said:
I got a 25ohm and it works okay. 10k does not work. I am currently working on a dimmable from the arduino. The driver is current control and is not a voltage control. So i'm building a current controller instead, the bad news is, I can't get up to 680mA, I manage to only get 610 or 620 at best.
Its kind of a double problem. The output of the driver is not linear when dimmed. Also like Dan said, the voltage curve on the LED is not linear. So when you compound both of these, you have a really high increase from like 0% brightness to 70% brightness over a very small amount. And then it takes a long time to go from 70% to 100%.
 

Zooid

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
Crit21;85176 said:
Explain what you mean by screwed up and manageable and we'll ask for replacements in the follow-up order.
Screwed up meaning that it was 200 ohms instead of 100 ohms and the wiper would only go to a low of 100 ohms.
Manageable meaning that it increases brightness to a certain point then if you move it a HAIR more it will go to full brightness.
I'm not worried about getting replacements. I'll just order from the States if I feel that anal about it hehe.
I'd like to get some more LED's but I don't know if add ons are allowed.
 

Crit21

Butterfly Fish
Mine says 680mA +/- 5% so it could go as low as ~645mA. Since these are inexpensively made, and very compact, I'm sure +/- 10% wouldn't be out of the question, particularly since they are built to work under such a wide range of AC power inputs.

How are you measuring the current?
 

Crit21

Butterfly Fish
Zooid;85186 said:
Screwed up meaning that it was 200 ohms instead of 100 ohms and the wiper would only go to a low of 100 ohms.
Manageable meaning that it increases brightness to a certain point then if you move it a HAIR more it will go to full brightness.
I'm not worried about getting replacements. I'll just order from the States if I feel that anal about it hehe.
I'd like to get some more LED's but I don't know if add ons are allowed.
The photo showed pots with two circuits (6 poles). Is that what you really got? If so, try the second control circuit.

Fortunately, I like all of my circuits full-on, so they only came in handy when I was acclimating the corals to the LEDs.

Add-ons are definitely an option. Contact Derek directly.
 

Zooid

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
Only one circuit on these pots.
definitely not 10K ohm.....I was just ordering the pots they showed to use with the drivers......
If I had any datasheet on the driver, I'd look to see what rheostat I actually needed and buy it
locally.
 

hooked

Goby
M.A.S.C Club Member
S.C.M.A.S BOD
I have the data sheet for the30w 350ma driver the 60w 680ma driver and the 3w white and blue LEDs. I can email them to anyone that wants them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

QLe

Turbo Snail
I don't know about you guys, but when you use the dimmer, the current changes with it as well. I hooked up a DMM in series with the LED and when I control using the control wire, the current through the LED also changes. So it's not a constant current driver. I have a 22AWG wire going to the LED, I'll change it out to 18 this weekend to see if that will improve the currents.
 

Zooid

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
It is a constant current driver. It's just a dimmable constant current driver, in order to dim it the current through the LED's must go down.
The rheostat tells the circuit how much current to push through the LED's.
18 guage wire may make it more difficult to put the optic in place. I'm using 20 guage wire (solid) and I had to resolder some of my connections because the optic
would hit the wire sometimes.

On a side note.....did anyone have to resolder their LED's onto the star? I found one LED that had lifted at the positive pad. Thank God I checked and rechecked my
connections or I would have missed it.
 

QLe

Turbo Snail
Another thing I notice is that to get maximum performance out of the drivers, I had to keep a cooling fan over them to cool them down.
 

Zooid

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
yeah they do get hot don't they hehe......I had a thermal imager at work and the drivers got hotter than the LED's.
 
Zooid;85257 said:
18 guage wire may make it more difficult to put the optic in place. I'm using 20 guage wire (solid) and I had to resolder some of my connections because the optic
would hit the wire sometimes.

On a side note.....did anyone have to resolder their LED's onto the star? I found one LED that had lifted at the positive pad. Thank God I checked and rechecked my
connections or I would have missed it.
yeah, I had one out of 36 that I resoldered. Agree if you get sloppy with the solder or the guage is too thick - will interfere with your lens. especially if you aren't soldering plus / minus terminals exactly opposite.
 

Crit21

Butterfly Fish
QLe;85254 said:
I don't know about you guys, but when you use the dimmer, the current changes with it as well. I hooked up a DMM in series with the LED and when I control using the control wire, the current through the LED also changes. So it's not a constant current driver. I have a 22AWG wire going to the LED, I'll change it out to 18 this weekend to see if that will improve the currents.
Yes, it's a constant current driver. There's no way to dim LEDs without cutting current. Constant current means that whatever load is applied, the driver adjusts to keep the current constant.
 
Top