RO system recos

Hello,
I am just getting started with planning a saltwater tank. I have had freshwater tanks for a few years and decided to explore the reef world. What type of RO system is recommended for Colorado water? I am in Littleton, under Denver water. Thinking of a 4 stage but wanted to get advice first. I am still deciding on tank size either a 60-gallon or 80-gallon, AIO. Researching tanks and everything involved with them Thanks for your help.

Hello and welcome to the club and to the real addiction

As far as RO systems go, they are generally all the same between brands, so really just comes down to figuring out how many stages you need. 4 stage could work okay with Littleton water, but I would opt for a 5 stage if possible. The reason is that its always a good idea to have 2x DI stages. Doing so always ensure you get max contact time with the DI. DI resin depletes over time and its effectiveness drops as it does. 1 stage is fine when the resin is brand new but efficiency drops quickly from there. If you add a second di stage you ensure that you always maintain full efficiency.

As for tanks, its always recommended to go as big as possible. Stability in parameters is much more important then it is in freshwater and the more volume of water you have the more easily it will be able to maintain stability.

Also AIO can be really nice but, having a sump on the tank gives you a ton of benefits that AIO don't. For one it also can add to your overall water volume which again helps with stability. They also give you much more flexibility in the equipment you can use, as we as a place to essentially hide the equipment. AIO are often time very constrained on pumps, skimmer, top-off and other equipment you can use with it because there just isn't the space to available to be flexible.

Sumps also offer the benefit of making it easier to do general maintenance like water changes, and accessing the equipment for cleaning, and they can provide a much more sizable space to keep a refugium.

Thank you, I will look into the 5 stage system. As for tanks with sump, would there be an increased chance of leaks with sump plumbing instead of AIO? This type of tank makes my husband nervous and he is not the reef keeper I do travel a few times a year and was hoping to decrease a chance of leaks if it was an AIO, not that something couldn't happen with an AIO too.

I wouldn't say the leak chance is any different then with the sump vs the AIO. Once setup, tested, and running it should be pretty solid. I would say that the majority of us run a sump in one fashion or another. The benefit of it far outweigh any cons imo. The only time I would personally run an AIO is on a smaller tank like under 40g, or if I was putting a tank some where that was impossible to put a sump into as well.

If you really concerned about it, there is even the means to build in a leak detector around the sump and wire it to a controller that would shut of the main pump if a leak was detected. Although I have run a sump for a long time and never had a need for that

Very helpful thank you! Now I will need to find a tank Excited to get started

Call Air, Water, Ice, or the like and talk to them. Avoid BRS - just too much garbage from them both in increased prices and them supporting total crap companies for profit. Get extra sediment, carbon and DI resin and just have it for the next time - most are interchangeable if you get the right size, but always good to order ahead and just have them in stock.

The only must-have is the shut-off valve to save your tap water after your reservioir is full. I have been using a Kent marine float valve on a brute container for probably close to 20 years.

I usuallty hate AIO tanks since you have to take the manufacturers version of what is correct instead of figuring it out yourself as you adapt. I would avoid most of them since they all seem to have seam failures and total catastrophies - espeically Red Sea (BRS has deleted posts/reviews with blown seam Red Sea systems that they sold) which have MANY failures. Waterbox seem to have fewer seam failures. I don't use any of them so I don't know.

Most of what manufacturers suggest anymore is to sell product and not needed at all for your tank. You don't need to run Carbon, GFO, Biopellets at all, let alone constantly. You don't need socks or fleece rollers. All of these things can help with certian types of systems, but they are not needed for nearly all others so don't buy some AOI that has some of this built in.

If this is your first tank, see if you can find a solid system used. Usually pay 20-25 cents on the dollar - many ask more than this at first to recoup their "investment" but they rarely get this kind of money. If you are really going strong in a year or two, then take your time and get something different.

Totally agree with @jda123 on this one. I always order all my rodi stuff from air, water and ice too as they make good products. Their color changing DI though is only thing I have issue with. I do buy it because its much cheaper then BRS but it doesn't change colors to indicate its depleted like it should. Just have to watch the TDS meter for when the TDS levels start to rise above 0 and then I change it.

Thank so much for all the advice, looked at air water, and ice and getting the system for m them. Thanks again!

No problem. That's what we are here for. Post up a build thread once you get a tank. If you have any questions or issues as you progress, don't be afraid to ask

When you purchase your RODI filters make sure the carbon block is designed to remove chloramines, which is what Denver water is treated with.

Chloramines will deplete a regular carbon block filter much quicker.

Also thanks everyone for the air water ice recommendation. I like Spectrapure, but IMO they are frequently out of stock.

I just sent you a PM. I have a 5 stage RODI with extra stuff that I need to get rid of.