DIY Breeder Stand BuildThread/Help Request

#1
Just picked up a nice compound miter saw and table saw today. So I will be starting my first stand build for a 40g breeder.
This is my first stand build and I havent touched woodworking tools since junior high.

The basic pic of the design. View attachment 5441 The cut list and directions are below. Its a solid design and gives me full access to the front with no center bar.
The only deviation from the plan is adding in some support for each of the corners Ill be adding those, just 2x4 angle cut for support.
The basic cut list follows, but I have an issue. When trying to lay it out and get measurements for cuts I came across some trouble figuring how to do the dimensions to fit the sump.
My sump options are these: 30L 36.5"x12.5" or a 29g 30 1/8 x 12.5"
Now the top of the stand needs to fit the breeder perfectly so the weight of the tank transfers to the supports properly. I cant deviate from that for sake of safety.
But from what Im looking at it wont allow me enough interior room in the stand to fit my first choice for sumps which is the 30 long.
So the first question: I need help determining the dimensions I can build the stand to fit both a 40b on top and a 30l under as the sump.
Tank dimensions 40b 36 1/8 x 18 1/8
Sump dimensions 36 1/2 x 12 1/2.
If you can post up any help id appreciate it. If not Ill mock it up and wing it till assembly lol.
Below is the cut list and guide.
Notes:
The plan for this stand consists of 21 pieces. Like color pieces are the same length and of the same board size.
The box frames are screwed together first, then the legs are built off the bottom frame, the top frame is then placed on top and secured to the legs.
The green pieces are screw strips. These provide limited load strength but serve to make assembly easier and help keep the stand square.
The blue piece between the upper rails (red) works to keep the upper rails from twisting.
Cut List: The calculations below are based off of a stand that is “W” inches wide X “D” inches front-to-back X “H” inches high.
(2) Red – Upper Rails: Length = W
These will be sized according to length: 2X4 for 48″ or less for smaller tanks (Rule of thumb is 75g-90g); 2X6 up to 72″ with 125g-150g being acceptable; For longer spans and larger tanks 2X8s are recommended.
(2) Yellow – Upper Ends: Length = D-3″
Theses will be made of the same material as the upper rails.
(4) Green – Screw Strips: Length = H-2″
These 2X4s are shorter then the tank is tall.
(8) Purple – Uprights: Length varies:
- 2X4 Upper Rails: Length = H -7″
- 2X6 Upper Rails: Length = H-9″
- 2X8 Upper Rails: Length = H-10.75″
These 2X4s support the weight of the tank. The ones on the short sides of the stand provide a flat surface for attaching a plywood facing and while they do provide some strength, they are optional.
(2) Orange – Bottom Rails: Length = W
These 2X4s act to spread the weight of the tank over a larger area.
(3) Blue – Bottom Ends: Length = D-3″
Covering the sides of the stand with plywood will help to stiffen the stand against twisting and shifting. Doors can be mounted to the legs as desired.
So there it is. 21 pieces in 6 lenghts equals a tank stand that should fit the bill for most people. There are other plans out there but this is a simple design using simple tools and common wood sizes. It may not suit everyone’s application but it should fit the bill for most common size tanks.
 
#2
Think I got the dimensions figured out, made it easier finding an old acrylic tank I forgot I had to use for a sump. Dimensions are exactly 36x12.
Going to have to go with 1.5x1.5 for my screw strips though. Seems like it will be fine with the added in 2x4 corner supports.
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#3
Don't even use the screw strips, I didn't. Just takes a bit more patience to get everything square. Also be sure to put 1-2 cross braces on the bottom just to help steady things.


Drew

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#4
Added 2 more bottom braces into the design. I have it drawn up and am pretty happy with it. Now the wait till my next days off to buy supplies and start the build.

Did u treat the inside wood for water protection at all?



Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
I did about 3 coats of Kills on the whole stand. Then I sealed all joints with silicone. I'll be gone next week but will be back on the 12th. You can come check it out if you'd like.


Drew

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#6
Silicone the joints? Will have to google that no clue what that would entail.
Had a pm or two as well gonna ditch the screw strips to save some space.
Design changes being made now. Then sadly need to research how to screw it all together. Pilot holes? Wood glue? Lol im a nub so will be reading more tonight.
Would have done more research before buying tools but found a wicked deal on cl. For my saws. Now just need to find the same kind of deal on a router and table, then ill have 3 dangerous power tools I barely know how to use :)

Thanks again everyone helpin out!

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#7
Yea, I just put silicone in all the joints the help waterproof them. I also used a Kreg jig for the screws. If you want to wait for 2 weeks I can give you a hand if you would like.


Drew

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#9
Which kit do you have btw? I think the wife already approves of this purchase to fix the table leg that I "fixed" a couple weeks ago.
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#10
I just have the $40 kit and I think it's perfect.


Drew

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#12
Btw I hadnt even thought about this before looking at the jig, but what is the standard way to screw a stand together if your not gonna go with a pocket hole?
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#13
Really long screws? I'm actually not sure how you'd build this style, without the screw strips. That's the kit I have and it's awesome. Only other thing I would recommend is the clamp designed to go with it. It's round on the clamp end so it won't mar the wood.


Drew

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#14
Found a vid on the assembly of damn near the same stand with the suggested changes. Gonna skip the pocket holes till I do my 75g, and ill be hitting u up to try out the jig on it.

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk
 
Top