Heaters.
- Thread starter Balz3352
- Start date
+1 to this! I personaly stick to the classic Ehiem Jager combined with a Ranco controller. Rock solid performance and reliability. I started off with JBJ and Finnex titanium heaters and both failed. Using an Ehiem with the top just out of the water seems to be the most tried and true for reliability.
Ehiem jager 4 years, cheap and reliable. Colbalt neotherm 3 years, expensive, reliable, no glass to break (not that my ehiems ever have broken) and easy to set, nice current temp readout. I won two neotherms at reefstock and they have been great. I would never pay that much for a heater though since the ehiem jagers work so well for half the price.
Ranco super easy to wire you just connect a female power cord to the unit then plug the heater into that. No need to by pass the built in themostat just set it about 2-3 degrees above the highest temp threshold on the ranco now you have some redundancy. The ranco can maintain temp within +/- 1 degree.
I would have to respectfully disagree. A ranco is a very simple controller that is simply +-1 degree hysteresis and lacks the ability to protect itself against common failures. For example this code for two apex heaters.
Fallback OFF
If Temp < 78.0 Then ON
If Temp > 78.3 Then OFF
If Temp < 72.0 Then OFF
Fallback ON
If Temp < 77.9 Then ON
If Temp > 78.2 Then OFF
This allows the controller to narrow the hysteresis down for better stability for SPS growth, limits the total available wattage in the event the head unit loses communication, limits the total available wattage in the event the temp probe gets disconnected (or falls out of the water or gets exposed to air), steps the temperature ranges to get a slower climb in heat rate, and used triac outlets instead of electromechanical (which are less likely to fail). The Ranco is no comparison on features or reliability, but does make a great redundant backup to the apex or great standalone if you don't have an apex.
Fallback OFF
If Temp < 78.0 Then ON
If Temp > 78.3 Then OFF
If Temp < 72.0 Then OFF
Fallback ON
If Temp < 77.9 Then ON
If Temp > 78.2 Then OFF
This allows the controller to narrow the hysteresis down for better stability for SPS growth, limits the total available wattage in the event the head unit loses communication, limits the total available wattage in the event the temp probe gets disconnected (or falls out of the water or gets exposed to air), steps the temperature ranges to get a slower climb in heat rate, and used triac outlets instead of electromechanical (which are less likely to fail). The Ranco is no comparison on features or reliability, but does make a great redundant backup to the apex or great standalone if you don't have an apex.
I do have an apex. But really this post is for me and everyone else in market for heaters. I just wanted to know what heaters everyone has had success with and stay away from those heaters that failed consistently.
I also think it's good info to have backup controller such as apex or ranco because many new guys don't know about it or never heard of this redundancy so also good information.
Let's keep this good information amd not attacking anyone. We're all here for the information and communal love of reef husbandry. We don't need to have a ****ing contest
So far eheim and finnex have the most plusses of the 4 forums I have posted on.
I also think it's good info to have backup controller such as apex or ranco because many new guys don't know about it or never heard of this redundancy so also good information.
Let's keep this good information amd not attacking anyone. We're all here for the information and communal love of reef husbandry. We don't need to have a ****ing contest
So far eheim and finnex have the most plusses of the 4 forums I have posted on.
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