On my 40 breeder with 20 gal sump/fuge I am wanting input on using a skimmer or not. I do not plan on having SPS, mainly mushrooms and zoas, and one or two frogspawn or torch coral. For fish I have 2 oscellaris, and may get at most 2 more fish. If I have a large amount of chaeto and use media reactors, do I need a skimmer?
I ran my 17 without a skimmer for over 2 years. I did have SPS and a variety of other corals. The GSP, Anthelia, and zoos grew well. SPS survived for the most part but did not thrive. I did 4 gallon water changes once a week and the water was usually pretty dirty. I'm not saying you need one but I ended up putting one on my 40. I am doing SPS though and plan on having around 10 fish.
Thanks dudes, the less $ and equipment to worry about the better. I'll be able to put quite a bit of live rock and chaeto in the sumpfugium without a skimmer chamber.
I ran my 17 without a skimmer for over 2 years. I did have SPS and a variety of other corals. The GSP, Anthelia, and zoos grew well. SPS survived for the most part but did not thrive. I did 4 gallon water changes once a week and the water was usually pretty dirty. I'm not saying you need one but I ended up putting one on my 40. I am doing SPS though and plan on having around 10 fish.
Frostyfish, I got the tank drilled and sump built at Great White by Vince. He did a great job! I purchased a 700gph overflow from glass holes. The over flow uses 1.5" bulkheads. According to Glass-holes, "2 3/8" (62 mm) aquarium holesaw. Just what the doctor ordered for our 1 1/2 inch bulkheads. Use care and coolant."
the return line is 3/4" with a lock line nozzle. I put the overflow as high and to one side as I could and same with return on the other side.
Frostyfish, I got the tank drilled and sump built at Great White by Vince. He did a great job! I purchased a 700gph overflow from glass holes. The over flow uses 1.5" bulkheads. According to Glass-holes, "2 3/8" (62 mm) aquarium holesaw. Just what the doctor ordered for our 1 1/2 inch bulkheads. Use care and coolant."
the return line is 3/4" with a lock line nozzle. I put the overflow as high and to one side as I could and same with return on the other side.
Did you have two overflow holes drilled and one return?
You need something to export. It doesn't have to be a skimmer. Frequently changed GAC or filter socks could get the job done along with more frequent water changes. If you are not going to supplement calcium and alk, then water changes to replenish and remove might be a good way to go.
There is no sensible argument that can be made that coral want dirtier water - this is an old time piece of misinformation from way back when lights were not good enough to keep photosynthetic coral alive and people had more success with filter feeders. NSW conditions and parameters are the best for any coral that we keep, other than denro and the like. Some will survive OK in dirtier water, but will do even better in clean water.
BTW - if you plan on growing a lot of chaeto and depending on it, it will likely need iron supplement to keep on keeping on... another reason for water changes or even supplementing with Iron.
There is no sensible argument that can be made that coral want dirtier water - this is an old time piece of misinformation from way back when lights were not good enough to keep photosynthetic coral alive and people had more success with filter feeders. NSW conditions and parameters are the best for any coral that we keep, other than denro and the like. Some will survive OK in dirtier water, but will do even better in clean water.
This is still hard to believe since my lps did significantly better when I was one vacation and my water got super dirty, yet my mother was still putting her hands in the tank.
This is still hard to believe since my lps did significantly better when I was one vacation and my water got super dirty, yet my mother was still putting her hands in the tank.
I agree, I don't know exactly what the "dirty water" has that makes soft coral and some lps look bigger and healthier than normal, I've tried researching it but haven't found much conclusive evidence. Some say it doesn't have a benefit while others say it does. I wish I could find the answer!! Maybe it is because there is more food for them than when the water is "clean" Who knows...
I agree, I don't know exactly what the "dirty water" has that makes soft coral and some lps look bigger and healthier than normal, I've tried researching it but haven't found much conclusive evidence. Some say it doesn't have a benefit while others say it does. I wish I could find the answer!! Maybe it is because there is more food for them than when the water is "clean" Who knows...
At least in my personal experience, I have noticed that when I was chasing my nitrates trying to get them down from 10ppm to 0 I did see faster growth on frogspawn and duncans than when I got it down to 0. All other corals (zoas, sps, acans, etc) had better growth after it was undetectable. When nitrates were higher, all corals were much more brown and didnt really pop in color until a few weeks after nitrate got to 0. As far as im concerned, the less nutrients, the better as I would rather have coral that colors up nice and grows a tiny bit slower than brown corals that grow fast.
