Chemiclean

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#21
The nutrient export via carbon based bacteria growth does not add phosphate to the tank, even if it does remove it in disproportion to the nitrate - the phosphate was in there already. I have had some super clean SPS/Clam tanks with no fish and still had some cyano. It just happens.

If you do run it, run the carbon for a day before turning your skimmer back on. If you have an out-of-sump skimmer, especially.
 

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#22
I forgot, I used to just suck it out during a water change. That would knock it back quite a bit for a while... nutrient export.
 

Vance

Angel Fish
#23
Accumulates not added, sorry if it sounded like I was saying vodka added phosphate. Not gonna dose the chemipure, need to start a new thread got off on a tangent, this thread might be a bit confusing now...
 

daverf

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#24
Vance;233927 said:
Got a second test on my phosphate, it is way to high. Tap water being added has no phosphate though so that's good, thinking its just the natural build up from vodka dosing ive heard about. Was reading an article about the use of nitrate to phosphate by algae's and bacteria is a ratio of about 16:1. Has anyone considered actually adding nitrate to their tanks to account for this ratio? about its seems that the organisms we use (macro algae's included) to remove nitrate and phosphate use up all the nitrate and are unable to remove the remaining PO4. New thread topic maybe?
Since one of the most important things you can do for a system is reduce nitrates, I don't think you'd ever want to add any to the system. For phosphate that is residual to algae uptake, it's best to add another export means to take it out of the tank (adsorption/GFO, precipitation/Lanthanum, etc). Usually you need to do something more than just functional algae to keep the phosphates low, some believe that the rock will leach phosphate until the level in the water column is in equilibrium with the rock. So, if you export that which is in the water column, the rock will then replenish phosphates in the water until the levels equilibriate. As a result, if you are measuring high phosphates, it takes time and an ongoing process to get all of the phosphate down (in the water, therefore in the rock as it will continue to leach and reduce to a low level).

Also keep in mind that algae must be occasionally harvested to achieve nutrient export, otherwise the phosphates/nitrates are bound within the algae. An algae scrubber (or macro algae in a sump) is your friend in achieving this.

jda123;233932 said:
I forgot, I used to just suck it out during a water change. That would knock it back quite a bit for a while... nutrient export.
+1
 

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#26
It just hit me - are you barebottom? Bare bottom tanks are notorious for high PO4 since there is no aragonite to bond with the phosphate. If so, throw in some GFO and you will be good.

Rocks and sand do not release phosphate. Aragonite (calcium carbonate) will bond with phosphate. Once all of the bonds are taken, phosphate will begin to accumulate in the tank. This is why "old" tanks with old sand are said to leech phosphates when they actually just quit absorbing it.
 

Dr.DiSilicate

Administrator
Staff member
M.A.S.C Club Member
M.A.S.C. B.O.D.
MASC Vice-President
#27
Chemiclean

jda123;234061 said:
It just hit me - are you barebottom? Bare bottom tanks are notorious for high PO4 since there is no aragonite to bond with the phosphate. If so, throw in some GFO and you will be good.

Rocks and sand do not release phosphate. Aragonite (calcium carbonate) will bond with phosphate. Once all of the bonds are taken, phosphate will begin to accumulate in the tank. This is why "old" tanks with old sand are said to leech phosphates when they actually just quit absorbing it.
Good info! Thanks.


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