DIY modular led with arduino controller
- Thread starter Metalsniper
- Start date
I haven't done a whole lot of metal working, but I do know that a good punch to give your bit a place to sit is needed. Without that divit for the tip of the bit to sit in, the blade will wander as you've experienced. A standard punch should be fine, just might need either some extra power behind the hammer, or even several hits to get a good enough start point.
Well that't good to know, I guess I'll try wailing on it before I try and drill my led screw holes. Thanks!
Just so everyone knows, feel free to give any input. I will be collecting the significant build information and advice into a single concise build thread when I'm done discovering everything that I need/used and why.
Just so everyone knows, feel free to give any input. I will be collecting the significant build information and advice into a single concise build thread when I'm done discovering everything that I need/used and why.
You know cdrewferd, I really don't know. I mean, I really like the typhon in terms of the expand ability but I like the relay switches of the DIM4 however I don't know if I can do a diy arduino controller for any cheaper. I guess for a diy controller all I really need is a few PWM channels, an led shield with buttons(probably 5), and an RTC chip. So it might be cheap enough, but if its more than 55$ then I'm probably better off getting the typhon because that's essentially what it is.
My fear about the typhon is when I was emailing back and forth with them they could only confirm that each PWM pin could control two meanwell drivers. As my plan is I would want to control probably 3 with one pin. I know the current draw of the dimming circuit of the meanwells is low, but I don't know how low and is it worth 55$ to find out?
These are just sort of my thoughts on the matter. If I were to go with a controller from scratch I would likely start with the typhon code as a base anyway.
So, to put it simply, I don't know.
My fear about the typhon is when I was emailing back and forth with them they could only confirm that each PWM pin could control two meanwell drivers. As my plan is I would want to control probably 3 with one pin. I know the current draw of the dimming circuit of the meanwells is low, but I don't know how low and is it worth 55$ to find out?
These are just sort of my thoughts on the matter. If I were to go with a controller from scratch I would likely start with the typhon code as a base anyway.
So, to put it simply, I don't know.
Alright, I still haven't gotten my royal blues from ledgroupbuy and its been like 2 weeks, also didn't get my drill and tap set so on Friday like I was hoping. GRRRR (yeah, all caps means business). I went ahead and put together some stuff and got some wiring done and set-up around the wedding planning that's been going on. So, without further ado here's some eye candy.
Dimmer side; It's really nice that the buckblocks don't need external voltage to regulate the dimming.
Toggle side; The wires poking out are the power cables for the buckblocks which will be replaced with a nice little dc jack hopefully. The toggles are single pole double throw with center off so I have it wired up to be one of three ways, full on(when the circuit is open/center off), full off(when the circuit is fully closed), and dimming through the 20K pots.
Finally, a little look under the hood to see all that's been crammed into the tiny little space I'm working with.
I've had to do, undo and redo so many connections while figuring everything out. It's pretty ridiculous, especially with the molex connectors because I have none of the tools for them meaning if I mess up one wire I clip them all and start over. I also had to majorly trim down my initial wires because when figuring it out they were all like 4 inches long and that much wire just doesn't fit in such a small box.
Dimmer side; It's really nice that the buckblocks don't need external voltage to regulate the dimming.
Toggle side; The wires poking out are the power cables for the buckblocks which will be replaced with a nice little dc jack hopefully. The toggles are single pole double throw with center off so I have it wired up to be one of three ways, full on(when the circuit is open/center off), full off(when the circuit is fully closed), and dimming through the 20K pots.
Finally, a little look under the hood to see all that's been crammed into the tiny little space I'm working with.
I've had to do, undo and redo so many connections while figuring everything out. It's pretty ridiculous, especially with the molex connectors because I have none of the tools for them meaning if I mess up one wire I clip them all and start over. I also had to majorly trim down my initial wires because when figuring it out they were all like 4 inches long and that much wire just doesn't fit in such a small box.
No shorts or anything (at this point) so I'm guessing I did have a short somewhere, between a wire and the case or something. Anyway here are a few photos over the 10G quarantine tank.
These are taken with all "blue" which is actually two turquoise, two red, two true violet, two blue and two royal blue. And both blue and white. The white strand ended up being two cool white, two neutral white and a royal blue. What do you think?
The left side cluster has a triple lens on it while the right doesn't, none of the white have their optics on either. I plan to do better testing with the optics once I get my tap/drill kit, which was supposed to get here on the 1st at latest... usps.
These are taken with all "blue" which is actually two turquoise, two red, two true violet, two blue and two royal blue. And both blue and white. The white strand ended up being two cool white, two neutral white and a royal blue. What do you think?
The left side cluster has a triple lens on it while the right doesn't, none of the white have their optics on either. I plan to do better testing with the optics once I get my tap/drill kit, which was supposed to get here on the 1st at latest... usps.