Hello!

#1
I'm working on my first reef tank now, currently at the water testing to ensure no plumbing leaks, good flow, the heater is enough, etc. I just wanted to say to anyone who hasn't been to Aquamart...go there. I must have picked that guys brain for an hour. Very patient which was refreshing. Here are a few pictures including a stand build from scratch, DIY faux rock background, and the current wet test.
Cannot wait (but I will have to, I understand patience is a virtue) to put in a few corals and a few fish. I've enjoyed the research on here and the DBTC concept. Hopefully I'll have something of value for someone someday, as well as some sound advice.
I'll work on the complete build thread soon with lots of pictures.
 

tlsrcs

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#3
Yes I love the stand and your back wall. Are you going to add more rock? Where are you located?? Once you get it cycles I have some good starter zoas to see if you tank is ready as well as Kenya trees.....they are both good at telling you if you have your parameters good
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
Very nice stand. I have some starter corals as well when you're ready.


Drew

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#9
Thanks Guys and Gals (can't tell by the avatars).Tomorrow I will drain everything, quick rinse out with RO/DI and then add thesaltwater, live sand and 68 pounds of dry rock that I have. I have beensoaking, changing, and circulating the 68 lbs of dry rock in a Brute garbagebin with a canister filter, heater and three circulation pumps all in LanthanumChloride (Seaklear, Phosphate remover) to hopefully reduce the excessivephosphate leeching that is common with new dry rock. Phosphates were fairlyhigh to start but have diminished greatly, although still minimally present.Tested every other day.
I also have to correct my Durso Standpipe problem. As you can see from thepictures, the water level is almost 2" higher than the 90 degree PVC elbowwhich is the intake for the overflow. If I cover the hole with a finger, thewater level drops down to where it should be, however it makes the traditionalLOUD gurgling sound. I will either try airline tube, or a new cap with asmaller drilled hole. I also think I need to change from the "Y" lockline return I have to a single lock line return with a flow accelerator head.I'd like to get more flow from my return. Other than that, I should be able toput about 50 lbs of live rock in there by this weekend, if not a day or twosooner.
This project has been a year+ in the making, so as soon as I organize thepictures I'll post them for the build.
After mine is up and running, and less demanding, I'd be happy to help anyonethat needs it with a stand build. I'd also like to make a meeting to pick somebrains and see what I can learn, hopefully contribute somehow too.

 
#10
P.S. I'd just like to point out in the upper right side, my join date, TWO years ago to the month and I'm just getting my first tank going. I'm chaulking that up to 1/2 slacker, and 1/2 over zealous researcher! Happy anniversary to me? A whopping 8 posts!! :nod: Hopefully more contributing, less lurking...
 
#14
It's sharply been brought to my attention that I'm notvery creative or good at decorating, so to speak. I'm trying to arrange my dryrock prior to sand, saltwater and live rock and cannot seem to find anythingthat is both stable and aesthetically pleasing. Any good advice? I'm working ontrying to minimize what can later become detritus pockets or areas of low flow,making sure it's stable not going to tumble if dug under by sand sifters and atthe same time create holes, arches, or caves and such that the inhabitants willenjoy.
And not that any of you haven't been here before, but oh yeah, and also tryingto gingerly move things around so I don't crack or chip the tank before it'sborn. I think this is my grasshopper lesson in patience....

 

fiji4118

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#16
I always stack my rock outside of my tank to get a feel for how it will look. Then I can lock it all into several pieces with putty and acrylic rods. Just drill some holes in the rock. That way you can end up with something that looks really cool that would not normally be stable. Then move it into the tank. I recommend putting plastic grates on the bottom under the rock and sand. The same stuff you use as florescent light covers. You can get them at home depot and cut them to size. This will help to keep the rock from shifting.
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#18
I used 1/2" fiberglass rods. I simply used a hardened masonry bit and low torque settings on my drill. I kept the rock submerged while drilling to clean out the holes. Took forever, but I finally made all the holes. Next I secured the rods to the rock with aquamend, you'll need a ton to do a complete scape. I suggest using JB Weld WaterWeld. I also pushed the rods through the rock so that the rods would stick out the bottom, I didn't have much rock and didn't want to cover half of it with sand.

Water Weld
View attachment 6373

Rods, excuse the algae
View attachment 6374


Got told about fiberglass rods leaching chemicals, could it be phosphate?
 
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#19
I was able to arrange the dry rock I had in a fairly stable arrangement, starting largest to smallest, and working up. There are two points of contact that I'll try the LocTite on, other than that it seems really secure. I arranged all the rock on top of the light deffuser from Home Depot, and will buy some live sand and pre-mixed saltwater from Todd's tropical later today (since they're not open at 0422 hrs). After that, give it a day or so to make sure my water temp is right on and then get about 50 pounds of live rock. And then...after only two years of reading this and other forums.....and planning and replanning......hopefully my OCD will have paid off and I can start my cycle!
I'll get build thread pictures up this weekend. God knows after two years I have my share of pictures of this project.
 

MartinsReef

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#20
I use 5/16 and 1/2 inch acrylic rod and water putty epoxy. Use this and place rock then sand and water last and its all good! :D

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