Help - fish dying
- Thread starter szavoda
- Start date
One of the problems with even an RO / DI is that is does not filter the ammonium ion out. Once the RO/DI water has the salt added to it, the PH rises and the ion changes to free ammonia. You will typically not see a positive ammonia test for 24 to 48 hours. Now you can neutralize with prime, or amquel, but it will not destroy it. I know I will likely get flamed for this, but in my tests Amquel did a better job at containing the ammonia till the bacteria broke it down. Using a post polishing caten resin can also help, but even those can be unreliable. I use sponge filters in my holding tanks, and usually the ammonia is broken down within 24 hours. JMHO Hope all has worked out.
Thats not true. DI binds with Ammonia (NH3) in the form of Ammonium NH4+. The problem is its a very weak bond with cation-binding resin's. Which means when the resin is depleted of all of its H+ it will release the ammonia. This is why its important to watch your DI resin carefully and replace it as soon as it starts to let stuff through.
Depending on the levels of Chloramine in the system, I have seen Ammonium get through even a fresh filter. It also depends on the quantity of flow through the filter. Been fighting this battle with Thornton's water for years. Depending on the time of year and which water source they are using (and your location relative to the plant) You can get spikes too high for most systems to handle. Even did a test with a local water stores system. I have seen levels of TDS and Chloramines WAY over EPA standards in our tap. Thornton could care less as long as the North side of town is within the lower limits. Which is why I run cycled holding tanks. Most people don't even see the problem because they don't store water over 24 hours before using it. With 18 tanks, I don't have a choice.
Good to know. I've never seen high enough levels of chloramine's here in castle rock to see an output of ammonia. Although I don't regular test by RODI output very often but the times I have as always been less then .1ppm of nh3. Searching on it some more yields that it might have to do with the contact time of the water through the DI resin. Also found a post from RHF that states its impossible for NH3 to get through a fresh DI resin but that a new DI resin may release amines which would cause a false positive on a NH3 test. Also mentions that if the level is really high you could burn through a DI resin in less then 200 gallons.
