In line check valve

ShelbyJK500

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#21
miwoodar;129679 said:
LOL...for some reason I've always put the Shelby and the 500 together. That's a car for a younger me. My bike didn't get named Eleanor by accident though. :)

My holes are actually drilled directly into the loc-line...the piece that screws into the bulkhead...the grooves are perfect.
Haha...yeah, didn't think it would be right to name a "current" GT500 Eleanor. That should stay with the vintage beasts. ;)

So I actually drilled that exact piece tonight. I have four connectors (as pictured) that dip into the water. I drilled (starting very small) up to 1/8" in ALL four and it still isn't breaking the siphon. I don't know what the heck is going on. I also drilled into the actual flex tubing on the smaller of my two tanks (plumbed together to the basement), thinking that might help aid in breaking the siphon. NOW, with a hole drilled in all four loc-line connectors and into the return flex line in my second tank...it STILL isn't working. I'm at a loss...is it because of how much water is flowing? Is the suction too powerful for these holes to break it? I started with toothpick size like you mentioned, that wasn't even close. Now I'm at about 3 toothpick width. ;)
 

miwoodar

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#22
that0neguy1126;129698 said:
Curious as to why a check valve will fail?

I get mine from Lowes in the plumbing section
Calcium carbonate deposition, sand grains, detritus, Vermatid snails, tiny feather dusters (ie Pileolaria), etc. Bill Murray found a Baby Ruth once.

ShelbyJK500;129746 said:
Haha...yeah, didn't think it would be right to name a "current" GT500 Eleanor. That should stay with the vintage beasts. ;)

So I actually drilled that exact piece tonight. I have four connectors (as pictured) that dip into the water. I drilled (starting very small) up to 1/8" in ALL four and it still isn't breaking the siphon. I don't know what the heck is going on. I also drilled into the actual flex tubing on the smaller of my two tanks (plumbed together to the basement), thinking that might help aid in breaking the siphon. NOW, with a hole drilled in all four loc-line connectors and into the return flex line in my second tank...it STILL isn't working. I'm at a loss...is it because of how much water is flowing? Is the suction too powerful for these holes to break it? I started with toothpick size like you mentioned, that wasn't even close. Now I'm at about 3 toothpick width. ;)
Maybe someone with a basement sump who's also seen your system can chime in on this one. The amount of water is a factor. The distance from upstairs to the sump, on a hunch, is probably a larger factor though.

Edit to add - Are your tanks separately plumbed to the sump or do they come together into a main drain while en route?
 
#23
Didn't realize it was a basement sump. Gravity and that much added volume in the line will make that a pain in the ***.
When I clean my sump it is siphon fed to a drain in my basement from the first floor. I can pull the hose out for ten seconds allowing it to fill with air and it will still keep siphon if the total volume of water hasnt drained from the line.

Def need someone running similar set up to advise.

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ShelbyJK500

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#24
miwoodar;129752 said:
Maybe someone with a basement sump who's also seen your system can chime in on this one. The amount of water is a factor. The distance from upstairs to the sump, on a hunch, is probably a larger factor though.

Edit to add - Are your tanks separately plumbed to the sump or do they come together into a main drain while en route?
Yikes, I was beginning to wonder. Craigar and I were scratching our heads. As to your question, the tanks are plumbed separately as far as the drains go. The return/pump lines are one in the same, they "Y" from a single return pipe.

dirtefish;129757 said:
Didn't realize it was a basement sump. Gravity and that much added volume in the line will make that a pain in the ***.
When I clean my sump it is siphon fed to a drain in my basement from the first floor. I can pull the hose out for ten seconds allowing it to fill with air and it will still keep siphon if the total volume of water hasnt drained from the line.

Def need someone running similar set up to advise.
Thanks for the input...I guess I'll have to wait for someone with a basement sump to chime in or search them out!
 
#25
Any way to expand the water volume of ur sump/fuge so it can handle the flow till the siphon finally breaks?

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ShelbyJK500

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#26
dirtefish;129880 said:
Any way to expand the water volume of ur sump/fuge so it can handle the flow till the siphon finally breaks?
Not really, I already have a 150g rubbermaid stock tank for my sump and a 65g refugium sitting on top of it...so volume isn't really the concern. I'd just rather have the level somewhat high in the rubbermaid (for sound reasons) but want enough room left for tummy comfort. ;) I may just have to run a couple of really high nozzles...which wasn't in the plan, but plans change I guess.
 

that0neguy1126

Registered Users
M.A.S.C Club Member
#27
dirtefish;129757 said:
Didn't realize it was a basement sump. Gravity and that much added volume in the line will make that a pain in the ***.
When I clean my sump it is siphon fed to a drain in my basement from the first floor. I can pull the hose out for ten seconds allowing it to fill with air and it will still keep siphon if the total volume of water hasnt drained from the line.

Def need someone running similar set up to advise.

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk
I have a similar setup. 240 gallons draining into 2 1" hose's down to the basement. The overflows are just a modified durso with an air hole drilled in the top to prevent gurgling and noise. I don't worry too much about the drain lines since once the water drops below the overflow entrance, it breaks those siphons because there is no more water.
The return line however has locline under the overflow and would probably drain about 50-75 gallons before it went above air to break the siphon. I use 2 1" check valves on the pumps. 1 is right after the pump's outlet. The other is right at the intake (in the water, lowest point of my intake). This way the water does not drain out of my pump and does not have to be primed again if I loose power.
I have foam pads over the intake of the pumps to prevent anything large enough from obstructing the overflows and getting them stuck open. Also with the 2nd check valve being after the pump... nothing is getting through that pump other than water.

All of course are easily serviceable/replaceable if needed.
 
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