LED spectrums: UV/"TrueViolet"/420nm-Actinic/"RoyalBlue"/marketing?, etc.

Ghosty

Butterfly Fish
#1
I always wondered about various (non-standard and "exotic") color mixtures for custom and DIY LED setups for home reef corals. Ran across this recent thread, thought I'd pass it along. I know you guys/gals love the scientific discussions for what's best for our corals of various types. Some good posts in here. LOCAL feedback is encouraged to further our knowledge...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2234986&highlight=diy+led

 

Cherub

Hey you
M.A.S.C Club Member
#2
interesting read, thanks for sharing. I didn't add UV to my set up even though it was an option. Glad I didn't! China would have installed hte cheapest and probably the worst
 

DyM

Sting ray
M.A.S.C Club Member
#3
I can't see reefcentral at work, but marinecolorado is a .org - so I can. I posted a little on my tank build about this

If you look at metal halides and T5s, both proven, LEDs should match as far as spectum. Problem is they don't. First - if you click on a few os these, look at some outputs from metal halides and T5's specifically under 450 wavelength.

http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/re...0k-metal-halide-bulb-double-ended-xm0007.html
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/10/aafeature
http://www.reefgeek.com/24w-actinic-white-12000k-t5-ho-fluorescent-uvl0009.html
http://www.reefgeek.com/24w-75-25-aquablue-14000k-t5-ho-fluorescent-uvl0025.html
http://www.reefgeek.com/54w-super-actinic-t5-ho-fluorescent-uvl0021.html


They all say "Bulb must be used with UV-proof lens to filter out harmful UV rays" The glass doesn't stop it all, but enough to not make it too harmful. Now UV is 380-420 wave length. Most of the LED's peak at 450, and not much before that. That is why I see long term LED users as the only source of light being over all, not impressed.

Now look here on page 5 - http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...d Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXTE.pdf
page 6 - http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...d Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXPE.pdf
Here on page 3 - http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...d Modules/XLamp/Data and Binning/XLampXPE.pdf

You'll see they don't have nearly the coverage at the low UV end of the spectum. We're trying to mimic the sun, so I'm not smart about all this but could guess that we should cover the full spectrum.
 

newtoreef

Bat Fish
M.A.S.C Club Member
#4
I just ordered led from Nick Ambrosio the lux 8s and they offer UV LEDs you can match it exactly like an mh and the fixtures I am getting contain 420nm blue 440,450and 460 blues to replicate at least most of the beneficial blue spectrums that help grows and as in exotic colors your reds and oranges will do more harm then good cuz the red spectrum only penetrates about 12ft of the ocean surface so corals don't really use that for best growth you want lower kalvin whites and a few spectrums of blues. Also uv causes plants and corals to intake higher amounts of cal-mag increasing its nutrient uptake aka the super growth from mh lights so take that and build and led that has best of the mh and increase it with the intensity of LEDs cuz an 80watt led (high quality) has the same lumen and par output as an 375watt mh I am study botany in UCD and we have a study tank in our. Class room I am leading the lighting side of the study so far we have achieved a 88.76% match of growth and coloration with LEDs compared to mh in our study. Tank is 10feet long on one side the mh and the other led so tank params are the same
 
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DyM

Sting ray
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
I have no doubt, that LEDs will find that sweet spot. Those multi chips (50W and 100W) LEDs are coming close or already there. I just don't have the thousands of dollars to be an early adopter. I have DIY LED strips, to go along with MH's, and I'm happy with the combo. Some day I'll replace the MH's when I am certain it will work.... and the price comes down.
 
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