lets talk about ro/di systems!

[Mav]

I have a basic ro. 1 sediment filter. 1 carbon filter. ro membrane. small di canister that sits on the ro canister. the resincanisterholds 1/3 of a standard 10 in canister. I deplete the di resin in around 30 or 40 gallons. Is this normal?

What would the best set up as far as number and type of filters to use pre ro to deal with high chloramines? I'm assuming the chloramines are depleting the di faster than should be.

I was around 140 tds with tds of 0 after the di. Now I'm at 110 in and 50+ out. I'm assuming 2 things happened. One ... my di has run its course time to order some new. And 2 my ro has holes in the membrane? I heard a good running ro should reduce tds by around 80% is that correct?

Next question. With my ro working unefficiently could that be a cause of my cyano problem or would it be possibly old live sand?

Last. I have heard there are 3 types of ro membranes. Anyone know what they are and the diffrence between them?

 

[Cake_Boss]

Sounds like you don't have an ro membrane, if I read it right. I read sediment-> carbon->DI. if that's the case, your DI is in the membrane canister. As for chloramines, you'll need a specialized filter set to remove them, not expensive. Air, water, and ice has it, they also say that chloramines will destroy your ro membrane, thus the need for specific filters.

Different membranes? By brands? By GPD? GPD depends on your incoming water psi, higher GPD membrames require higher psi to function correctly.

One more thing, sounds like your DI is shot.

 

[Mav]

There are 3 diffrent types as far as membrane material I believe. I use color change di and yes its shot need replace. I have a sediment. Carbon. Ro and then a di

 

[Cake_Boss]

Oh, I def read that wrong.

 

[Haulin Oates]

I have a basic ro. 1 sediment filter. 1 carbon filter. ro membrane. small di canister that sits on the ro canister. the resincanisterholds 1/3 of a standard 10 in canister. I deplete the di resin in around 30 or 40 gallons. Is this normal?


What would the best set up as far as number and type of filters to use pre ro to deal with high chloramines? I'm assuming the chloramines are depleting the di faster than should be.

I was around 140 tds with tds of 0 after the di. Now I'm at 110 in and 50+ out. I'm assuming 2 things happened. One ... my di has run its course time to order some new. And 2 my ro has holes in the membrane? I heard a good running ro should reduce tds by around 80% is that correct?

Next question. With my ro working unefficiently could that be a cause of my cyano problem or would it be possibly old live sand?

Last. I have heard there are 3 types of ro membranes. Anyone know what they are and the diffrence between them?

Considering the small size of you DI, I'd say it could exhaust quickly. DI needs to be packed in extremely tight or it will exhaust very quickly. If you think you packed it in tight enough, you need to go a lot farther. I watched Will from Premier pack a canister once, it took him almost 20 mins. But he got the entire bag in there. That canister lasted me almost 9 months, making 30 gal a week.
You need a special chloramine filter before the ro and DI canister.
My DI exhausted (I use the color change) a few weeks ago and my output TDS is only 002. Your prefilters and RO will do most of the work if set up properly.
Yes, if your TDS output is that high, it could cause a number of algae issues. (Note that this may not be the only reason for algae outbreaks though)
Most RO and other water filters are ultimately made by the same company, just boxed different. Spectrapure make quality filters, and are directly available at BRS. I bought a filter at HD recently boxed as another brand and it had the same writing as my spectra pure filters. Your RO membrane needs to match your flow restrictor as well. That's this part:

Mine is a 75 GPD unit. I also use the RO flush before I make water. Remember, this part is very important as it forces water through the membrane. Water doesnt want to go through there, and thats where you get the most of your filtration. (I make 35 gal every 2 weeks. I flush for about 2 mins. Before making water.)

That's my entire set up in my basement.

 

[Mav]

Mine is/ was a 75 gpd. My house water pressure is above 80 (prv is out). I do have a flush kit on it as well. I'm sure I havent been packing the resin in tight enough either. Anyone have an extra 10 inch canister or 2?

 

[Dapozer]

I have a dual canister filter lyning around. they are not clean and are white in color. don't know if it will work for ya though. was a hd dual stage water filter

 

[Cake_Boss]

I have a dual 20"

Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk HD

 

[Buckeye Field Supply]

Just so prople don't get confused, I wanted to comment on a few items from above

Considering the small size of you DI, I'd say it could exhaust quickly.

True, Just as importantly DI stages should always be vertical.

DI needs to be packed in extremely tight or it will exhaust very quickly. If you think you packed it in tight enough, you need to go a lot farther. I watched Will from Premier pack a canister once, it took him almost 20 mins. But he got the entire bag in there.

Well, sort of. Mixed bed DI resin will separate if not packed tightly, but it won't exhaust any faster.

Most RO and other water filters are ultimately made by the same company, just boxed different.

There are countless manufacturers of the various components.

Russ

 

[that0neguy1126]

Thats the same setup I have, Same DI canister also.

It should still last you a while.

What is the TDS coming into your RO? and what is it leaving?

My TDS in Castle rock from the faucet is about 150. My RO needed to be replaced because it was outputting 40 TDS to my DI and my DI would only last about 100 gallons.

Now with the replacement RO, I have an output to my DI of about 2 TDS. and the DI will last for a very long time.

 

[Buckeye Field Supply]

Air, water, and ice has it, they also say that chloramines will destroy your ro membrane, thus the need for specific filters.

Chloramines will not damage the membrane

...higher GPD membrames require higher psi to function correctly.

Sort of. Here's some info:

Russ

 

[Buckeye Field Supply]

There are 3 diffrent types as far as membrane material I believe.

TFC (Thin Film Composite) is likely the only type of RO membrane material 99.9% of all reefers have ever seen. CTA membranes are very uncommon in this hobby. They require expose to chlorine...

Russ

 

[Buckeye Field Supply]

DI needs to be packed in extremely tight or it will exhaust very quickly.

It really won't exhaust quicker, but the cation beads and the anion beads will separate, and you'll be much less liekly to see 0 TDS out of the resin cartridge. Mixed bed resin provide superior performance in this regard.

Your prefilters and RO will do most of the work if set up properly.

Remember that the prefilters (all the filters that touch the water prior to the membrane) have minimal effect on TDS. The RO membrane is the workhorse re removing TDS. The resin then is just a polisher.

Most RO and other water filters are ultimately made by the same company, just boxed different.

Not so! You'd be amazed at the number of manufacturers.

Russ

 

[ailachami]

This happened to me when i first got my rodi system. i bought the 1.25 lbs bag of mixed resin but didnt pack it all in. it was depleted after only 30-40g. i bought another filter kit and repacked the resin. this time i packed all of it in. took a while but i did and now after 3 months, making 20-30g a week, the resin is still good and getting 0tds. when i said packed, you cant squeeze the canister.