Metal Halides: Oh My!!

Haulin Oates

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
welp, the time has come to start learning about Metal Halide lighting. its the only type of lighting ive never tried, and I have been buying a ton of frags from systems that run a LED/MH combo, so i figured the new build will incorporate both. I have several single ended sockets (where you screw in the bulb like a regular bulb in your house) and a few ballasts laying around that ive collected from people. there is only one ballast im even contemplating using, the rest have been far too exposed to unknowns to trust. my thoughts are to go with 2 250watt 14-15k bulbs in between 3 120watt 20k panels on my 210 (6 foot long, 29" deep tank) thats about all i can give you right now. what i want to know is: everything about MH lighting!! magnetic vs electronic ballasts. sigle vs double end bulbs. HQI bulbs? my head is spinning!! can anyone explain any part of this and what i should be looking for?
 

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#2
First - remember that the same bulb on different ballasts on different reflectors will look differently and have different results. ...so when you are taking opinions or gathering your own, pay attention to the combos of ballasts and bulbs (and reflectors to a lesser degree).

IME - 400W Radium 20K Moguls on High Pressure Sodium ballasts, or 250W HQI on M80 (HQI) ballasts with 14K Phoenix bulbs are the ultimate in reef lighting, but some will not agree with me. They will keep grow and offer outstanding color anything that you want. However, 20K radium or 14K phoenix on the wrong kind of ballasts will yield OK, but not stellar results.

There are bulbs available for nearly every situation that are very good looking and grow coral very well. You don't really need to supplement with T5, led, etc. if you don't want to. I don't supplement mine at all.

If it were me, I would run 3 halides on that tank and skip the LEDs. In fact, that is what I do and you are welcome to stop by anytime and see the color and intensity. I use 14K Phoenix on M80 in Aquamedic fixtures. This fixture is about 12-14 bucks a month for me to run for 10 hours a day - I have a kill-a-watt and all.

If you have not purchased anything yet, there is a thread on here selling some 6' Aquamedic lights that used to belong to some guy with a name from a classic novel (I cannot remember). They are new and VERY well priced. These are awesome lights.

I have so much to say here that I don't know where to start... The best advice that I can give is to go and look at some and compare them to what you have seen elsewhere. I am halide guy have 2 tanks burning them if you ever want to stop by and look.
 

sethsolomon

Hammerhead Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#3
+1 to jda's input.

I would go visit some different people that have MH's and see what they are running. and make your decision on what you see at the other tanks.

Josh Gonzales from gonzoscoralfrags.com has some cool different setups to check out and some sick coral selections. I would go visit him as one of your visit stops :p
 

Haddonisreef

Orca
M.A.S.C Club Member
#4
I loved the mh till LEDs hit the hobbie!! He heat and he fact u have to change bulbs every 9 mths at 75 to 100 a pop!! I used xm 20 k and really liked them way back when! Ya josh runs a combo my led and looks awesome!
 

Haulin Oates

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
Metal Halides: Oh My!!

Thanks guys... I have been checking out the fixtures and stuff as I shop. I am going to stick with LED supplementation because I can't get enough of the brilliant blue and what it does to the coral in the morning and evening. I've got a nice fixture with 2 bases that goes in the hood I got with the tank, so I'm hoping to use that and just get new ballasts and bulbs.
What is HQI and how is it different than a regular MH?
How do you know if a ballast is magnetic or electronic?
Do all the bulbs screw into the same base?
What's a double ended bulb?
 

jda123

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#6
IMO, the corals will get more blue out of a halide than you will an LED, but they don't help much with pre/post or dusk/dawn lighting. If you are looking for the pure actinic look where the purples look orange, reds look yellow, or whatever, then MH won't do that either. ...but, if you want to corals to really get some serious blue coloration, then MH is the way to go. Most people complain about corals losing their "blue" under certain LEDs - search on RC for these threads. Take all of this with a grain of salt - I am a hard core SPS guy and I did not bother to ask what you are wanting to keep... and I don't pay attention too much to other types of coral. I have some Oregon Tort, Cali Tort, ORA Tort, Blue Stag and even some Tubbs Blues under just Halides - I will try and get a picture later if you would like to have a look. I don't think that you will find better looking Tubbs Blue zoas anywhere and I don't have any LED or actinics on the tank.

Tangent Over, on to your questions:
HQI is a different way to drive metal halide lamps. There are also High Pressure Sodium (HPS) ballasts too. ...so, you can have HQI, Electronic MH, Tar/Magnetic MH and HPS. HPS should only really be used for bulbs designed for them, just like HQI, but you can "overdrive" other bulbs with these ballasts for more output although the color will typically shift (sometimes worse, sometimes better).

Electronic ballasts are very light. Magnetic are heavy. They usually will say what kind they are. Electronic ballasts typically run a bit more efficiently, but can break more. Magnetic ballasts are very reliable, but use a bit more wattage. All HPS and HQI ballasts are magnetic. Nearly all of these are very reliable. For a 250W ballast, electronic will run right around 250w, electronic like 270-280 and HQI about 300-330 - as the wattage increases, so does the output (typically).

All mogul bulbs use the same socket, as far as I know. 250W HQI use a different one. 150W HQI use a different one yet.

A double ended bulb has a lead coming out each end, instead of being screwed in like a typical light bulbs. If you Google some 14K phoenix bulbs, there are good pictures.

Each type of ballast will drive the bulbs differently. The more/less power, the different color and output. For example, a 20K XM 250W Mogul bulb is not too impressive IMO on an electronic ballast, but they rock pretty well on a magnetic with just that little bit more power. You put that same bulb on a HQI ballast and over drive it some more, the color gets whiter and the output really increases. Even if you overdrive a bulb, you can easily get a year out of them and one study showed that you can probably go 2 - I don't know how good of a study that it was.
 

WatercolorsGuy

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#7
Re: Metal Halides: Oh My!!

Great info on MH Doug!
 

Haulin Oates

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#8
Metal Halides: Oh My!!

I'm going a full mixed reef. But I am into Acros and am starting a nice collection!! Thanks for the info thus far, keep it coming folks!!
 

MuralReef

Administrator
Staff member
M.A.S.C Club Member
M.A.S.C. B.O.D.
MASC Vice-President
#9
While the fixture that came with the tank does fit well in the canopy. I would consider upping the wattage. I am pretty sure those were only 175's and on a tank that depth I think that you would want at least 250's.
 
Top