Quarantine/hospital tank setup questions
- Thread starter bubbarockies
- Start date
I have heard this before and I have read a few different things about it. First, the Ich is supposed to burrow under the fish's outer mucous layer and at that point there is nothing the shrimp can do. However, what I don't understand is why the cleaner shrimp wouldn't eat the strains of parasite that are on the rock/substrate before it releases back into the water. Anyways, now that I got that out, yes I do have a pair, but it is more because I think they look cool than the actual health benefits to the fish.
OK, so based on the added detail on the tangs, if I were you I'd start treating everything now and run fallow. You've caught this at the right time. Do the full treatment, then drain and restart the QT and add the clowns only after observing your display for a few months. Tangs (especially PBTs are the worst for Ich so you do need to treat, or they will die and leave an infestation that all the others (except maybe the foxface) will die by.
Ok. So I will be setting up the QT soon as I got the tank from rmougey today. I will be purchasing some ceramic biomedia to put in with some sponge with some marine bacteria. This leads me to another question... Is the bacteria that develops in the system the same at 1.024 as it is at 1.009, or will seeding it with marine bacteria just be killing the bacteria and causing an ammonia spike? Oh, and I couldn't find the answer. Is the ceramic biomedia ok for hyposalinity treatment?
Sorry, didn't go back and read enough, lol...missed the fact that you opted for hypo. Then yea, you're fine running Prime with hyposalinity.
I wouldn't worry about bacteria die off due to the change in salinity. You'll get a natural amount of die off when you seed the tank due to the temporary decrease in bioload...but bacteria tends to adjust and recolonize rather quickly. You can always replenish bacteria with additives or reseeding a few days into the QT procedure if you see an ammonia spike that can't be controlled via water changes. You should be fine though.
I wouldn't worry about bacteria die off due to the change in salinity. You'll get a natural amount of die off when you seed the tank due to the temporary decrease in bioload...but bacteria tends to adjust and recolonize rather quickly. You can always replenish bacteria with additives or reseeding a few days into the QT procedure if you see an ammonia spike that can't be controlled via water changes. You should be fine though.
So I ran into another hiccup. How am I supposed to feed my mandarin. I used rock from my old tank and he has had plenty of pods, but now he won't have any. I'm pretty sure if I put pods in my clowns and foxface would get to them first. I know some people have trained their mandarins. Is cyclopeeze a good food to try to use to train them? I know the whole brine shrimp method but in a QT I'm pretty sure he doesn't stand a chance at live food. Thoughts?
Great question, hope someone has an idea to offer...but I do know that mandarins are the most Ich resistant fish..with rabbits/foxes only a distant place to them in parasite resistance...they almost never need medication on their own accord as its almost impossible for them to not kick Ich...so consider that: pods won't last long in hypo (probably die in minutes); mandarins don't need to be treated; and you do still need to keep the display fallow in designing your QT (or multi QT) plan. You may not have luck food-training a mandarin that is subject to the high stress of a tank move and QT run.
Re: Quarantine/hospital tank setup questions
The main issue is that even resistant fish can be carriers. Fish that often show no visible signs of ich can have the parasite hiding in their gills.
If you are going to go through the trouble of running fallow and QTing every fish...it may be best to find a way to get him treated.
The main issue is that even resistant fish can be carriers. Fish that often show no visible signs of ich can have the parasite hiding in their gills.
If you are going to go through the trouble of running fallow and QTing every fish...it may be best to find a way to get him treated.
Maybe section off a portion of the QT for him, and hang one of those breeder boxes above his portion of the tank. You could drop a couple sponges or something in the breeder box to make a little "pod hotel", and they should slowly make their way into his area of the tank for him to feed on. If it looks like they aren't getting out quickly enough, you could always take a piece of sponge and shake it out for a second to make sure he's getting enough food.
Good point...I don't think they'd survive that long in hyposalinity. I also wonder if you'd run into issues with introducing pods from the fuge through treatment...it's possible you may end up chasing your tail fighting ich if you introduce additional parasites when transferring pods to the QT.
If you're up to it...I have a 10gal you can borrow to QT the mandarin separately. Since they tend to be more resistant, the potential risk of adding parasites to the QT might be negligible...whereas you could reinfect some of your more susceptible livestock if they share a divided QT tank. I think a daily introduction of a chunk of chaeto or some rock rubble infested with pods could be enough to keep him healthy. You could also grab a bottle of tigger pods to supplement if that doesn't seem like it's enough to sustain him.
If you're up to it...I have a 10gal you can borrow to QT the mandarin separately. Since they tend to be more resistant, the potential risk of adding parasites to the QT might be negligible...whereas you could reinfect some of your more susceptible livestock if they share a divided QT tank. I think a daily introduction of a chunk of chaeto or some rock rubble infested with pods could be enough to keep him healthy. You could also grab a bottle of tigger pods to supplement if that doesn't seem like it's enough to sustain him.
Never attempted it myself...but I've read where people have been able to sustain a colony in a 5gal bucket with an airstone and phyto. It may be worth looking into if that's a feasible approach...it's definitely easier than trying to maintain 2 QT tanks at hyposalinity.
Let me know if you decide on the 10gal. It has a lid with light, small HOB, and a heater. Everything's bleached and ready to go if you need it.
Let me know if you decide on the 10gal. It has a lid with light, small HOB, and a heater. Everything's bleached and ready to go if you need it.