Quick RO/DI question

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#21
Balz3352;369115 said:
Not true... Read description test tap. Will tell you if chloramines or not. When I was in se aurora they did have chloramines.

It is more likley true if you are using that test kit to test at the waste side of the RO membrane as stated above using that test kit on the source tap water itself is a different story. I could be wrong about that test kit and it may be actually using ammonia as the surrogate reading for chloramine if it states to test the water at the membrane which I imagine it does.

Im sure this test being used above is ok. The point here being that the OP asked about what filters to get for his new RODI. It seems evident that chloramine is present. So(IMO) you are asking for trouble just by using the standard filter kits.
 
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Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#23
Balz3352;369125 said:
Hmm to see if there is left over stuff... Interesting. I trust you definitely on this topic. You're one of the most knowledgeable especially on this topic
So I went to BRS and read up on that test kit. I could be wrong but I think it is essentially doing the same thing as the Jungle strips. I think that is also why a regular ammonia test kit say from API does not work the same way in this case. The jungle strips look exactly the same as this test kit and after all Ammonia is what makes the difference between free chlorine and total chlorine.

I think its still helpful for people to be aware of the the Jungle test strips as they are readily available at any wallmart for $10, and dont have to be ordered with shipping.

Assuming all that is true Id say that based on the test strip he used above he is looking just fine. Aurora water supply report suggests both chlorine and chloramine which Im not real sure why both would be used. Some municipal water supplies switch where their water comes from depending on the season and could be the reason why both are listed. I am only speculating but it could be that during the winter the supply is coming from a source where chloramine is not used and in the summer its coming from somewhere that it is used. If it were me I would just test often especially over the course of the year to see if a season change play into different additives being put in the water or just get the extra filter and not really worry about it anymore. :) But thats just me.
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#24
I know I am am cluttering up this thread that started with a very simple questions so I applogize for that but just one thing I wanted people to be aware of. KDF filters (Kinetic Degradation Fluxion ) Media DO NOT remove chloramine!

If you search on line for chloramine filters (especial for whole house solutions) you will see adds all over that make it appear as if a KDF filter is a simple and cheap solution and indeed it is FOR chlorine but NOT for chloramine. I was initially fooled by this when I was new to understanding water filtration.

A lot of cheaper whole house filtration solutiosn use KDF-55 which is usually used in conjunction with GAC which does allow them to make claims that their system system will treat for chloramine which it does. However the long life span of years they claim for these filters does not apply for chloramine and is not a cost effective solution.

The most effective way currently to remove chloramine is through a large dedicated backflush self recharging carbon filter that is feeds into a standard sodium ion exchange filter (water softener) to remove the ammonia cat ion and other hard minerals left behind. Assuming no excess CO2 is in the water supply your RO membrane and DI will last years!
 
#25
Walter White;369130 said:
I know I am am cluttering up this thread that started with a very simple questions so I applogize for that but just one thing I wanted people to be aware of. KDF filters (Kinetic Degradation Fluxion ) Media DO NOT remove chloramine!

If you search on line for chloramine filters (especial for whole house solutions) you will see adds all over that make it appear as if a KDF filter is a simple and cheap solution and indeed it is FOR chlorine but NOT for chloramine. I was initially fooled by this when I was new to understanding water filtration.

A lot of cheaper whole house filtration solutiosn use KDF-55 which is usually used in conjunction with GAC which does allow them to make claims that their system system will treat for chloramine which it does. However the long life span of years they claim for these filters does not apply for chloramine and is not a cost effective solution.

The most effective way currently to remove chloramine is through a large dedicated backflush self recharging carbon filter that is feeds into a standard sodium ion exchange filter (water softener) to remove the ammonia cat ion and other hard minerals left behind. Assuming no excess CO2 is in the water supply your RO membrane and DI will last years!
Not cluttering at all I'm sure lots of people have RO questions and this was helpful. Can you tell me in my original photo the last two containers are just DI resin? So I could run in this order sediment filter, .6 micron carbon block then the DI resin containers correct?
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#26
reef dummy;369141 said:
Not cluttering at all I'm sure lots of people have RO questions and this was helpful. Can you tell me in my original photo the last two containers are just DI resin? So I could run in this order sediment filter, .6 micron carbon block then the DI resin containers correct?
You are correct sir! It looks like the second to last is one of the silcabuster di resins. I personally have never found a need to pay the extra money for those. I just go with the cheap DI cartridges (preferably the wider high capacity ones) and just rotate the worker and polisher when the worker is exhausted as described earlier.
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#27
If it were me the only other thing I would add to that is an RO membrane flush and possibly a booster pump. I like to run my PSI at 75- 80 for higher efficiency on the membrane but anything above 60psi should be good. Neither are really needed But I like to get the best bang for the buck out of my filters.
 
#28
Perfect thanks. Guess I dont need to sell the kit after all I just need more DI resin. Thanks for taking the time to respond helped a lot. Hope to meet you sometime as well.
 
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