No leaks yet i did it my self , people make fun of me because i did tha same with a 40 breeder 8 months a go and i still have it [attachment=67105:name]
yes ,i just cut the rim ends with a hot blade and i pulled it of carefully with out scratching the glass , i used a sharp blade for the silicon and thats it , dont be afraid its not hard to do and you wont brake your cube
yes ,i just cut the rim ends with a hot blade and i pulled it of carefully with out scratching the glass , i used a sharp blade for the silicon and thats it , dont be afraid its not hard to do and you wont brake your cube
I did it with a 40 breeder and had it for a year with out a problem i just sold it today, i will try doing it with a 75 i will let you guys know how it goes ,lol
I did it with a 40 breeder and had it for a year with out a problem i just sold it today, i will try doing it with a 75 i will let you guys know how it goes ,lol
40 breeders have a low bending moment applied to the glass because there is less relative pressure due to the low height relative to the length and width. The top brace isnt even really necessary for a 40 breeder, but does make it a lot more reliable. Same thing applies for the smaller biocubes. Thats why there are few horror stories on 12 biocubes but many on 25+ gallon ones.
40 breeders have a low bending moment applied to the glass because there is less relative pressure due to the low height relative to the length and width. The top brace isnt even really necessary for a 40 breeder, but does make it a lot more reliable. Same thing applies for the smaller biocubes. Thats why there are few horror stories on 12 biocubes but many on 25+ gallon ones.
Makes sense, I dont know how they do it but i think most of the time they brake the glass because they dont do it right im talking only about the small cubes ,thats just my 2 cents
Were you able to find a thread anywhere where it says what the failure point was on the "exploding tanks" ? Still curious if these are silicone failures on the back wall or actual glass exploding.
Were you able to find a thread anywhere where it says what the failure point was on the "exploding tanks" ? Still curious if these are silicone failures on the back wall or actual glass exploding.
From what I've read, it appears to be about 50/50 silicone failure on the back glass and cracking along the rounded corners. Apparently the 29 model has had quite a few crack in a similar manner even with the rim on. I would venture to guess that there is a design flaw in that size that going rimless just compounds.