RODI Batch water upgrade

Blindrage · Mar 13, 2015

Well after the move it is time to upgrade a few things for the tank out here in the boonies. I need to keep a much better system since I have essentially started all over (except for all the livestock) and any real help is now 3-4 hours away.

One of things I would like to do with the RODI system is to get it doing batches of water instead of small amounts. I have seen people talking about this upgrade before, but I cannot find the threads now. I know this ends up using two float valves, one to find high mark and another to find low mark. Then the system turns on when the low mark is hit and does not turn off until the high mark is hit.

Does anyone have a link to the parts needed for this system. If it matters, my RODI system is a SpectraPure MaxCap 90 GPD system, and I will be using a 50 Gallon container to store the water.

Thanks in advance.

SeaMonkey · Mar 13, 2015

Why not just use a float valve to shut off the water at the high level? What is the need for the low level valve? Then you will always have 50 gallons of water.

Munch · Mar 13, 2015

I think the thought is, you fill the 50 gallon tub, you use water down to say 10 gallons. When it hits 10 gallons, your system turns on, and makes 40 gallons, and shuts off. Rather than, making the water as you use it. It's also more efficient on your filters.

szavoda · Mar 13, 2015

You should integrate a float valve as well as a safety in case the reservoir auto shut off fails. Are you going to be using a controller such as the Apex? I just finished wiring mine up last night. The real trick with those is that it requires use of the relay port on the Energy Bar. That messes me up a bit as I am running 7 solenoids on my system and there are only 2 relays per EB8.

crisc · Mar 13, 2015

This is what you are needing:

http://spectrapure.com/DOSING-TOP-O...enoid-Valve-Controller-Assy-w-1-4in-Sol-Valve

FishTV · Mar 13, 2015

RODI Batch water upgrade

ThunderTwonk has the double float auto flush system on his 60 Cube.

jda123 · Mar 13, 2015

Just a single float switch in the top of a Brute or other container is fine - there is no salt so they stay clean and don't fail. I have been using the same Kent Float Switch since probably 1999 or 2000.

powdermonkey · Mar 13, 2015

crisc;344748 said:

^^^^ the shiznit...Ok maybe thats a stretch. But it will save a lot of wear and tear on the filters. Worth it IMHO

zombie · Mar 13, 2015

szavoda;344746 said:

Thats what EB4s are for. 4 out of 4 are relay outlets vs 2 out of 8.

zombie · Mar 13, 2015

SeaMonkey;344744 said:

Its because the float will bounce making the system turn in and off very often which wreaks havok on the RODI. DI resin goes 4-8 times faster and RO membrane will last a year at best. You get the most life out of an RODI my letting it turn on for a ling time, then off for a long time.

Blindrage · Mar 14, 2015

Thanks Cris, that is exactly what I was looking for. I believe ThunderTwonk is the one that mentioned it about a year ago. Placed the order today to get one.

I also decided to upgrade lightning to Radion 52's across the tank. New rock scape look great, and next time I am back in Denver I plan to hit your place and pick up a few new pieces to see if the 100% water change and new water regimen is going to help corals in the tank now.

Rick

amonchak · Mar 14, 2015

zombie;344800 said:

I have been using a float valve on my rodi line on a brute for YEARS and get normal membrane life and DI seems to last as expected.

Walter White · Mar 14, 2015

amonchak;344843 said:

There is a huge misunderstanding when it comes to the real function of high a low level switches for RODI systems and like many others I once believed repeated on off cycles of my RODI system would shorten the life of the membranes. You find it regurgitated all over the internet forums.

Turning your RO "on and off" by using small amounts of water for rinsing food or ATO systems WILL NOT reduce the life of the membrane. What you really want is a flush system. Using a flush system is what is going to extend the life of the membrane. Well that and making sure your pre filters are getting all the chlorine/Chloramine out before it gets to the membrane.

The main reason high/low level switches are used on a unit like mine shown below is because its using an auto flush system where the product water of the RODI unit that has already been made is being used to flush the membrane each time the unit is turned on. It would be extremely wasteful to turn the auto flush on an off several times a day if say an ATO was hooked up to the reservoir on a standard float valve shut off. Hence the purpose of the low level switch. This way the membrane gets regular flushes without it happening every time the unit kicks on. On this system the high switch is just replacing the function of a mechanical float to turn off (close) the solenoid valve from the feed.

Rick Im sorry to be the bearer of bad news but the high low level unit for this application doesn't get you much if you are not going to run it with an auto flush system like I have described.

On one other side note if your RODI is on softened water you probably dont even need to flush the membrane. This also goes for people that don't have hard water to begin with.

Walter White · Mar 14, 2015

Consider this, What about all those under the sink ro systems for drinking water that use a simple pressure bladder. You dont think filling an 8 once glass or a coffee pot or using small amounts for cooking for a standard family household is doing the same thing by turning the unit on and off several times a day?

If this was truly an issue for the membrane then the typical under the sink ro unit would eat up membranes really fast no?

Walter White · Mar 14, 2015

Rick,

I am not trying to sell you something you dont need but if you are going to be on well water whats important is an auto flush system. If you want to send that float switch system back to Spectrapure I have a brand new never been used 5 stage RODI with micro processor controlled auto flush I can sell for for just a little bit more. Now it does not flush with product water like my spectrapure unit but it does flush like most manual flush systems only its automated.

I sold one of these two Mike and Cindy a while back and they really seemed to like it. I was just getting ready to post this for sale. I have three primo RODI systems already and am upgrading my main spectrapure to a 300GPD 1:1 system so I dont need these others anymore.

The one pictured was going to be used for a dedicated ATO for my 200 but I realize that no longer makes sense.

FishTV · Mar 14, 2015

ThunderTwonk;344844 said:

Cant he just add the auto flush valve to the system he just bought? http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/aquatec-auto-flush-flow-restrictor.html I was going to do this same thing eventually.

Walter White · Mar 14, 2015

Yup but most are around $150 unless he already has the booster pump and all and these are just bypass flush systems that dont have a need for limit switches. The limit switch type of flush system is whats bumps the unit i have to the $900 price point. The most cost efective thing for Rick to do imho would be to just by a simple manual bypass flush this is of couse dependent on what his water pressure will be from his well system. He may still want a booter pump anyway.

Walter White · Mar 14, 2015

FishTV;344848 said:

Hey Dane didn't notice your link before. This auto flush is no different than an auto bypass flush used on most systems like the one Im selling minus the booster pump. This will not work with hi/low float switches unless he does some custom mods/contoller and re-plumbing of his existing unit (assuming it has a booster) to redirect flow from the storage vessel through the booster into the flush system you linked to. Don't get me wrong it can be done but it gets pricey.

He could just get a separate booster that is used solely to flush the membrane and not feed the membrane under normal use. This actually might be a good way to go with a well water system since high TDS well water systems are usually very hard you typically want to drop your membrane restriction to about 60psi anyway which is less efficient waste to product ration wise but does save on the membrane some.

Most well water users often end up with a water softening system though. Im not sure if you are planning on that Rick but just keep in mind that if you do go to softened water you will be several steps up on most in terms of how much life you get out of both the membrane and the DI and you wont need all this fancy crap anyway. A booster pump would be very beneficial however if you will have soft water as it will raise the supply pressure to the membrane and at about 80 psi will be closer to a 1:1 waste ratio.

I hope all that makes sense. LOL

I just recently dropped $4k on our water system here at the house. Believe when I say I did my research before doing so!

szavoda · Mar 14, 2015

zombie;344799 said:

Lol - yea - I know now. Just a bit late... Anyone have an EB4 that they want to sell?

FishTV · Mar 14, 2015

Kris, wasn't sure if that would work or not, I was actually going to call you before I ordered my stuff for the upgrade (still will).

RODI Batch water upgrade

Anthias

Goby

Reef Shark

Butterfly Fish

Tang

Sting ray

Dolphin

Butterfly Fish

Dolphin

Dolphin

Anthias

Reef Shark

Reef Shark

Reef Shark

Reef Shark

Sting ray

Reef Shark

Reef Shark

Butterfly Fish

Sting ray