So I didn't take a pic and hopefully I don't go to school and find 225 gallons of water and all of my babies on the floor, but a part of my bracing on the top cracked. So my tank is acrylic and has three rectangular holes in the top brace and two 3 1/2" access holes over the overflows in the right and left back corners. The area all the way around the perimeter is fine as are the two large braces between the three rectangular openings. It cracked on the 2" space between the left access hole and the rectangular opening. Should I be worried? I plan to laminate a piece of acrylic over the crack on Tuesday. I think I may need to replace my tank, but I don't know. What do you guys think? Do you have other solutions? I'd hate to have to rebuild plus I can't afford a new tank this size.
Top brace cracked how bad is this?
- Thread starter MuralReef
- Start date
Hate to be an alarmist, but this sounds very bad to me. Sounds like structural failure has begun. If it were me, I would drain as much water as I could asap, to reduce stress on the fracture and avert total failure. Then, troubleshoot the root cause so you can put the best fix in place.
So get it stabilized then maybe post more info, answers to these questions...
How old is the tank? How thick is the acrylic? Do you see crazing on any top panel seams? ares the front and top panels bowing out? Did you ensure both stand and tank were level at first build? Are they measuring level now? Did you use an acrylic tank stand (very different structural requirements than glass). Read this link: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/
Hope that helps, and hope someone else comes along with better advice. Make sure you use acrylic welding solvent if you reinforce the fracture with another thick piece of acrylic.
So get it stabilized then maybe post more info, answers to these questions...
How old is the tank? How thick is the acrylic? Do you see crazing on any top panel seams? ares the front and top panels bowing out? Did you ensure both stand and tank were level at first build? Are they measuring level now? Did you use an acrylic tank stand (very different structural requirements than glass). Read this link: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/
Hope that helps, and hope someone else comes along with better advice. Make sure you use acrylic welding solvent if you reinforce the fracture with another thick piece of acrylic.
Pound for pound it is 6x stronger than glass...used in all professional installations (aquariums etc) and lasts for decades...
But still, lots can go wrong...poor tank construction, bad welds, too much polishing...then poor installation (not level or using the wrong kind of stand)...for your tank, it could be a combination of these. That tank weighs over a 2000 lbs, a tremendous load... Maybe it isn't as bad as it sounds. After you drain it as low as it can go (without killing anything - throw powerheads/heaters in there), take a picture of the top (including the whole top and crack), measure exact acrylic thickness (top and front/back, if possible) and post...
Another option is to call Tom Laabs (Aquamart knows him). He owns ADHI, local acrylic sump/tank manufacturer. You could pay him for a service call to look at everything, which can give you peace of mind. Or at least, I'm sure he wouldn't mind talking to you on the phone for a bit.
Good luck, take it one hurried step at a time...
But still, lots can go wrong...poor tank construction, bad welds, too much polishing...then poor installation (not level or using the wrong kind of stand)...for your tank, it could be a combination of these. That tank weighs over a 2000 lbs, a tremendous load... Maybe it isn't as bad as it sounds. After you drain it as low as it can go (without killing anything - throw powerheads/heaters in there), take a picture of the top (including the whole top and crack), measure exact acrylic thickness (top and front/back, if possible) and post...
Another option is to call Tom Laabs (Aquamart knows him). He owns ADHI, local acrylic sump/tank manufacturer. You could pay him for a service call to look at everything, which can give you peace of mind. Or at least, I'm sure he wouldn't mind talking to you on the phone for a bit.
Good luck, take it one hurried step at a time...
I think I'll be okay for the time being. I checked on the tank today and the front, back, sides, and bottom are all 1/2". The top is only 3/8". I am going to pick up some acrylic and solvent on Tuesday from Plasticare and laminate a piece over the crack. There is some crazing but the front is not bowing nor do either of the center braces look stressed. I am going to start looking for a new/newer tank though. I would like something in the 180+ range so I don't have to give up some of my end goals plus all of my gear is intended for a larger tank. I'd like to get this done before August when the students come back. Let me know if you know anyone that has something that would work. Like to keep it less than 96" and less than 36" front to back and probably no more than 30" tall for dimensions.
Sounds like good news to report. It would help to see a pic.
Does the top panel bow upward? Is there crazing cracks from any corners of the top panel rectangular holes? Are you sure there aren't crazing cracks around the top seams? If any or all of these are yes answers, it would indicate that undue stress is being placed on the top panel (thereby causing the crack). If so, then the undue pressure will shift to the next weakest area on the top panel (whether you put another piece on or not).
Otherwise, its possible the prior owner used metal halides that were too close to (or on) the top, and this caused the crack. Some acrylic manufacturers will void the tank warranty when MH is used.
If your thickness measures are right, IMO, the tank is very underbuilt. Anything higher than 20" and longer than 60" should have 3/4" acrylic on front/back panels. So that whole tank is taking more load, that top thin panel may be suffering. It may be starting its final leg (which could last...who knows...1 month, 1 year, 10 years...).
Sounds like you've got a game plan. You may want to temporarily drain off as much water as you can before applying the patch. That will help the tank flex closer to its non-load bearing shape, and you will get a much better fix.
If you get a new tank over 72" long and 27" high, I would go for 1" thick (especially if its used).
Keep posting on how it goes.
Does the top panel bow upward? Is there crazing cracks from any corners of the top panel rectangular holes? Are you sure there aren't crazing cracks around the top seams? If any or all of these are yes answers, it would indicate that undue stress is being placed on the top panel (thereby causing the crack). If so, then the undue pressure will shift to the next weakest area on the top panel (whether you put another piece on or not).
Otherwise, its possible the prior owner used metal halides that were too close to (or on) the top, and this caused the crack. Some acrylic manufacturers will void the tank warranty when MH is used.
If your thickness measures are right, IMO, the tank is very underbuilt. Anything higher than 20" and longer than 60" should have 3/4" acrylic on front/back panels. So that whole tank is taking more load, that top thin panel may be suffering. It may be starting its final leg (which could last...who knows...1 month, 1 year, 10 years...).
Sounds like you've got a game plan. You may want to temporarily drain off as much water as you can before applying the patch. That will help the tank flex closer to its non-load bearing shape, and you will get a much better fix.
If you get a new tank over 72" long and 27" high, I would go for 1" thick (especially if its used).
Keep posting on how it goes.