Automatic Shut-off/RODI install ???

[scmountain]

I ll just come out and say it... I am lost with my RODI unit, it has an ASO but from the videos I have watched I am now more confused on how to plumb this thing. (this picture is the BACK of the unit)
Far right of the unit is a possible "in" to first canister
red is waste from membrane?
blue in my hand is what I would connect to sump float valve?
any and all help would be appreciated, super nervous to plumb it backwards and burn through DI resin

 

[halmus]

I don’t know if this link will help:

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/instructions/article/Installing-an-auto-shut-off-valve

The color coding used can be confusing to reference because it’s kind of arbitrary. I’m not sure there is an industry standard.

I’ve found the BRS videos and PDF’s available on their site for RODI to be helpful. I haven’t personally used the auto shutoff valves because they make me a little nervous. My RODI came with one I immediately removed.

Let me know if the link doesn’t clarify things. You can always bring it along to the meeting on the 14th (if you can make it) and we’ll bang our heads against it for a while. Maybe our collective ignorance will get it out together right.

 

[scmountain]

thanks for the link @halmus, I had watched their video, but didnt know about their trove of articles... the colors part lost me, plus the fact that it is based on "what side the screws are on".... little sketched on it.

I don’t know if this link will help:

I haven’t personally used the auto shutoff valves because they make me a little nervous. My RODI came with one I immediately removed.

Why remove it? I was under the impression if you used a float shut off valve, one of these was mandatory?

 

[halmus]

I think you’re right that the float valve works in conjunction with that piece. I just don’t use either one in my system. I open a manual valve feeding the unfiltered water into the RODI. The final output just feeds into a big tank in my filtration room. Takes about 24 hrs to fill if it’s empty to start.

It’s on me to make sure it doesn’t overflow. I do have safeguards in place that will alert me prior to overflowing the tank. Electronic float switches and other DIY electronics both standalone and also tied into Apex. But it’s just buzzers, lights, and emails/text through the Apex. If I miss all that, my floors will be wet about 2 hours after first being warned.

 

[scmountain]

So ran it all night, knowing that there was no restrictor on the waste side, tried several methods to add backpressure. But never could get it to read 0 TDS.
I was told that the membrane had about 6 months of use on it, all other filters and resin were brand new. Readings on the OUTPUT of the DI canister ranged from 20-7.
Should I be concerned? or could this be the inaccuracy of the built in TDS meter?

 

[SynDen]

Id be concerned. TDS meters are pretty accurate ime and you should be getting between 0-2 TDS. So something certainly not setup correctly on it

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[scmountain]

it has to be related to the RO membrane, TDS after membrane is about 90-85. I "flushed" it for 10 gallons before making 40 gals.
I downloaded the manual and have all hoses correctly connected.
bad membrane?
incorrect back pressure?
DI resin is bad? (was in double ziploc bags)

 

[halmus]

Couple questions. Is DI the final stage?

Input—>Sediment—>carbon—>RO—>DI—>output

If the TDS is excessively high after RO and it hasn’t seen seen DI yet, then the issue probably isn’t with DI alone.

Are you using a color changing DI? Mine turns from blue to brown as it’s expended.

Sorry if I missed, but if TDS is 80-90 after RO, what’s the TDS of the final output of the filter?

It’s possible water is bypassing RO and that replacing that filter will help.

Is there a pressure gauge on the unit? If not, any idea of the water pressure in the house?

I’ve heard that these filters perform more efficiently with a PSI 60-80. You might try to find recommended specs for your particular filter. Without an additional pump at the input of my RODI, I only see 30-40 PSI. That’s partly because of low pressure in the house and partly because of the long 1/4” line I have feeding the filter. The booster pump increases the PSI.

View attachment 15077

 

[scmountain]

Couple questions. Is DI the final stage?

Input—>Sediment—>carbon—>RO—>DI—>output

Sorry if I missed, but if TDS is 80-90 after RO, what’s the TDS of the final output of the filter?

Is there a pressure gauge on the unit? If not, any idea of the water pressure in the house?

that is the order I am using , and it was a fresh reload of the DI resin.

TDS of my final product average is about 15.

Water pressure from the hose is rather high ( cant remember from inspection, but we had to turn it down to get it to "code")
and there is a gauge on my unit, but might be faulty as when the water is off, it still reads 66 lol

 

[halmus]

Seems like almost everything is working as I’d expect. Although, I’m no RODI expert. Pressure sounds good. DI is dropping TDS but maybe can’t handle everything without help from RO. RO looks like the culprit to me.

I’m a little spoiled with Golden water. It’s pretty clean from the tap, so I don’t have to struggle like you. I guess that’s why Coors is here, not Littleton.

 

[scmountain]

Seems like almost everything is working as I’d expect. Although, I’m no RODI expert. Pressure sounds good. DI is dropping TDS but maybe can’t handle everything without help from RO. RO looks like the culprit to me.

I’m a little spoiled with Golden water. It’s pretty clean from the tap, so I don’t have to struggle like you. I guess that’s why Coors is here, not Littleton.

guess we have that Bud light water lol

 

[SynDen]

Ya, if everything is connected and you got enough pressure then you should be down around the 0 TDS mark.
Since it's still not there, I would try a new membrane and I would likely add another DI stage too

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[TheRealChrisBrown]

Have you measured the TDS out of the tap before any filtration?

 

[scmountain]

Have you measured the TDS out of the tap before any filtration?

I hadnt until now, by pulling a probe from the unit and placing in a glass of tap water...

83TDS from the tap

 

[TheRealChrisBrown]

I don't think 83 is outrageous by any means. So you are going from 83 to 15, with decent pressure, all new filters and 6 mo. old RO membrane. You mentioned above that it was reading about 85 TDS after the RO....that would indicate that the Sediment, carbon, and RO aren't lowering your TDS at all? Then your DI is taking it from 80's to 15. So maybe you need to add another sediment, and/or another DI. @halmus has the dual DI unit there, if you added that then you could also add another sediment or carbon where your DI currently is....and get the added bonus of 2 DI's. Just thinking out loud here, as you know it's a hobby of mine to spend other peoples money!

Also I have a TDS "pen" like this one on Amazon. Probably worth the $12 or so.

 

[scmountain]

@TheRealChrisBrown I ordered 2 new RO membranes, and an additional DI chamber. so by next weekend I will have a DIY "watersaver" new RO membranes in both, and fresh resin in BOTH DI cans. If that doesnt get me to 0 TDS.... I will run gasoline through it and ignite the SOB! lol

 

[projectx]

Where are you located? I'll try to snap some picts of my setup

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[scmountain]

I70 and Federal

 

[neoalchemist74]

The restrictor or back pressure valve used to backflush needs to be in place for the membrane to work. without that valve or another means to add back pressure or restrict waste flow the water will not be forced through the membrane and will simply bypass it.

 

[scmountain]

The restrictor or back pressure valve used to backflush needs to be in place for the membrane to work. without that valve or another means to add back pressure or restrict waste flow the water will not be forced through the membrane and will simply bypass it.

correct, but anything that naturally squeezes through should still have not been that high of TDS.
I post a pic here soon of the setup flushing the membranes rn