40gal Rimless Breeder

Dr.DiSilicate

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#21
What I mean by wrap is to finish off the stand w/ oak or the like. That would make it more stable. If you feel the stand is wobbly you should probably do some work now rather than later though.
 

crustytheclown

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#22
alright. Got the tank flowing today. Hooked up the return pump into the display. The overflow is working great and everything is working properly:) No leaks or problems yet? I am wondering though how to adjust the ball valve on the full siphon standpipe? This is what is recommended on the beananimal.com, "If the siphon is adjusted to a flow rate that is slightly lower than what the return pump provides, then water will backup in the overflow box and be handled by the second (open channel) standpipe. If the system is adjusted properly then the volume of water flowing through the second standpipe will gently cling to the walls of the pipe and be silent."
My return pump is 630GPH and i have incorporated a ball valve onto the outlet. I haven't tweaked any of the valves yet and the water in the overflow is almost rising far enough to flow over into the 3rd emergency/dry standpipe. There is alot of noise coming from the second (open channel) standpipe and alot of air bubbles traveling to the sump. So it seems to me that i might need to gate my return a little bit? Does this affect/harm the pump at all?
 

ColoradoReef

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#23
All 3 pipes from your overflow should be submerged in your sump. This will get a siphon going.

Is that the way you have it?

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crustytheclown

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#24
well i just have the two that carry water submerged. The 3rd standpipe never has water in it so i didnt think it had any real reason to be submerged? I just made sure that if any water ever traveled through this "emergency" line it would make it in the sump. I just played around a bit with throttling my return and i got the level in the overflow box to drop. The 2nd standpipe quieted down and no more air bubbles were traveling to the sump. Problem was that now the overflow is really slow? My tank is pretty level but not "dead on" and because of this, water is only traveling over half of the lip of the overflow, on the higher side of course :( I also checked how much water was coming out of the return, and it was like a trickle. This is obviously not correct. I am planning on making the tank as level as possible as this fill is only a "trial" fill. I am going to drain it, level it out more and refill it. Why do the standspipes need to terminate just an inch below the water line in the sump? This is the only thing i can think might be throwing this off. Right now i have my standpipes terminating about 5" under the sump water line. Am i missing something here or is getting the tank extremely level the only way to make this overflow work properly?
 
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ColoradoReef

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#25
OK after thinking about it over night
I think I may have figured it out.
The 3rd overflow being out of the sump is not a big deal.
What I think the problem is:

Your main overflow... The one with the valve on it..needs to be air tight the whole way...
No air can get in it from the cap on top all the way to the bottom. You need to glue it or use thread tape on every joint all the way down. You are leaking air into the pipe somewhere along the way and loosing your suction.

C.j.

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crustytheclown

Bat Fish
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#26
ColoradoReef;65405 said:
OK after thinking about it over night
I think I may have figured it out.
The 3rd overflow being out of the sump is not a big deal.
What I think the problem is:

Your main overflow... The one with the valve on it..needs to be air tight the whole way...
No air can get in it from the cap on top all the way to the bottom. You need to glue it or use thread tape on every joint all the way down. You are leaking air into the pipe somewhere along the way and loosing your suction.

C.j.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
I used pvc primer and cement on every joint. Im not loosing suction either. If there is air leaking in somewhere, idk how or where? I just trimmed the pvc lines traveling to the sump to about 1" below the waterline. It is running fine and is pretty quite, not silent though? Would two 45deg elbows in the line to the sump make it not function "silently"? I dont need it to be absolutely silent, but it would be nice :)
 

ColoradoReef

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#27
The main overflow should be sucking the water out of the coast to coast. Then you should valve it down with ball valve until its silent.
If this is not happening then something is not right?

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crustytheclown

Bat Fish
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#28
Alright...... so i have a question about setting up my return line! Here are some pics to make it clearer as to what i am trying to accomplish.



This is how i would like the pvc tubing to run. I want it traveling up amongst the pvc plumbing and be hidden by the painted black wall of the tank. I dont want it just coming straight up from the sump to the side of the tank. Does anyone know how to make this stay in place? I tried putting it together and hanging the loc-line over the rim of the tank and overflow but it wouldnt stay in place at all?
 

Dr.DiSilicate

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#32
Look in the zip tie section @ lowes or the like... They have square sticky things that you can zip tie to. They stick to glass and wood etc. I am using them in my sump to help run wires. Sorry I don't know what they are called.
 

Zooid

Reef Shark
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#34
They are called zip tie anchors. I don't trust the sticky tape on them so if I'm attaching them to something other than the tank, I add a drop of super glue to help it out.
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
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#36
ok. i just added salt water and sand to the tank. I am wondering how deep of a sand bed to have? I was thinking around 1" would be good because its black and i will need to stir/vacuum it to keep it clean. I am not planning on putting any sand in my sump, just macro algae and a skimmer. Should my sand bed be deeper in my DT if i am not planning on having a DSB in my sump?
 

crustytheclown

Bat Fish
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#37
i have a 14gal and 29gal biocube that will be left behind. Any ideas on what i should do with these tanks? Of course there is the idea of selling them, but thats the last option.
So i was wanting to turn them into something really unique but simple, because most of my time will be spent on the new, bigger tank.
This is the equipment that i will have after moving most of the livestock into the 40gal Breeder.
Tank #1
14gal BioCube
150watt JBJ K-2 Viper MH
(but also have the stock hood and lighting).
3gal CPR Pico w/ 18watt CF 50/50 bulb (currently hooked up to the 14gal Biocube and used as a refugium with cheato, mangroves, various macro algae).
Established LR and LS

Tank #2
29gal BioCube
150watt JBJ K-2 Viper MH
(but also have the stock hood and lighting).
Established LR and LS


So i have a couple of ideas and would like some ideas from you guys as to how i can make these tanks into something awesome.
1. I was thinking of just having a softie tank,
well maybe a few LPS, with only inverts and maybe one fish. I want to keep the need for water changes down.
2. I was also thinking of a macro only tank. Would be really cool to have pipefish and seahorses, IDK???
3. I was thinkin a freshwater planted tank would be sweet.
4. I thinking of a Frag Tank but you need excellent water quality and a decent amount of equipment.

Any ideas???
 
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