brown alage or another tank cycle

deboy69

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
So my tank is about 3 month old. And it cycles 2 months ago and no I have this brown stuff all over my tank. It's all over my rock, tank and sand. Is it another tank cycle or some kind of brown alage? All my parameters are good except I can't check phosphate or alkalinity.

View attachment 8291
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#2
Looks like diatoms to me. Part of the cycling process. Always comes at the end when you think everything is done. Where are you located? I have a Salifert phosphate test I need to sell. Let me know if you're interested.
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#4
I would check phosphates. Where you located?
 

deboy69

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
This will be my 3rd cycle since May if that's what it is

I'm se Aurora. How much? I was going to go get one at Petco today but a nice tester would be good
 

jahmic

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#6
What are you using for a water supply, and what type of sand are you using?

Brown diatoms usually thrive in the presence of excess silicates, which is common with new setups. They should taper off and disappear after some time depending on how high your levels are/were. But...if you are adding them back into the system with water changes the problem will persist.

I kept getting diatoms in my current setup until I swapped out the DI resin in my RO. Can't confirm it was silicates causing the bloom, but my skimmer was cranking and they'd usually appear a couple days after the water change. I'd look at your filters if you have an RO unit...and if you're using treated tap or RO from a lfs...maybe consider investing in your own unit. Easily the best purchase i've made.
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#7
$10. Only used maybe 10 times.

Khalis has a good point on the water source. If you're putting in crap with your water changes then you're never going to be able to take care of it until you get a better water source.
 

deboy69

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#8
I was buying my water from a lfs until I had them do a tds which was 66. So I just bought my rodi unit from a fellow reefer on here and haven't used it yet. I need to buy a tds meter to confirm that it is 0 tds. I was thinking that the water I was buying was my problem
 

jahmic

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#9
With a tds of 66, you're probably right. Now it's just time to be patient once you hook up that RO unit, and...if possible do weekly water changes of about 15-20% and the issue should gradually resolve itself.

Keep us posted on your progress. Both green algae and diatoms do need phosphates to grow, so that's contributing as well and could be from multiple sources...but that persistent diatom bloom points to a water source issue IMHO. I think things will settle down once you improve your water source.
 

jahmic

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#12
You can usually find them at Walmart fairly cheap...they keep them in the section with the RV equipment. Maybe $10? I purchased mine like 5 years ago so I dunno for sure though.
 

09bumblebee

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#14
deboy69 said:
Looked at my local one yesterday in the rv section couldn't find it
I'll bring mine home from work and when you come over bring over a water sample and well check it.
 

deboy69

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#16
Well I started to Google this problem a little further. I have come up with possible causes called dinoflagettes. Here is a good write up i found online

You could have one of two things growing in your tank. First of all it could be a form of cyanobacteria. This usually comes in a red form in most saltwater tanks but can also be green or brown. When disturbed this "algae" will come off in tissue paper like pieces and can be slimy in texture with trapped oxygen bubbles in it. Cyanobacteria bloom in tanks that have a high dissolved organic nutrient in the water. Aggressive protein skimming, the use of activated carbon and more frequent partial water changes using only reverse osmosis or distilled water to mix with your sea salt can help control its growth. Raising the alkalinity with buffers or calcium reactor and using kalkwasser for top offs will also help. You could also have a bloom of dinoflagellates. This is less common than cyanobacteria but can form in tanks that are new or biologically unstable. It is almost always brown in color, slimy with trapped air bubbles and comes of as powdery pieces when disturbed. In a newly set up tank the best course of action to take is to simply raise the pH(to 8.4-8.5)with kalkwasser, lower the amount of time the lights are on(if possible), manually removing as much of the algae as possible every day and keeping the nutrient levels low. It can last for months and be very difficult to get rid of and is an indication of a high nutrient load in the water. It is very difficult to tell these two apart but a good indication of a dinoflagellate problem is the rapid loss of snails in the system. Snails are effected very badly by the toxin that dinoflagellates produce and very good indicators of this problem algae. Most people do not want to hear that they are having a water quality issue but if you have any undesirable algae blooming in your tank and especially if it seems like a cause for concern then there is a water quality issue going on. All algae have certain nutrients that they need to thrive. Most of these nutrients are wastes products of the natural processes going on with the inhabitants of the tank. Simply testing your water does not give any indication of what may or may not be wrong. Algae utilize ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and various other components typically found in a tank. When you measure these variables in your water you may get a reading of zero and think there is nothing wrong with your water. But the fact remains that if algae are growing then there is a high enough concentration of these nutrients in the water to promote their growth and the water you are testing is not showing evidence of this due to the fact that the algae are taking up these nutrients to use for their own growth. Essentially you are testing your water after the algae have taken the compounds out of the water column and they are what is keeping your levels in a healthy zone. Does this make any sense?
 

coloagro

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#17
" Algae utilize ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate" should be your key sentence. I think you just have diatoms due to High Phosphate and possibly even Ammonia. High PO4 is easy to correct with a cheap BRS Reactor if you want to do it quickly. Or you can buy Phos remover that comes in a bag and use it like Carbon in your sump. I ran out of PO4 tests and was having weird Hair & Brown Diatoms in my tank...I knew it was PO4 even though everything else was happy...corals fish etc. I have since tested and PO4 was at .18 which is HIGH thus the problem. If you havent tested for PO4...I promise you thats your problem.

You need to measure your PO4 stat! Then either add Cheato in a Fuge on reverse lighting cycle, add a bag of Phos remover or the best solution is using a cheap reactor from BRS and add GFO ( Granular Ferric Oxide) to lower it down to 0.03 or less. This reactor method must be done slowly if you have coral otherwise you'll starve them of nutrients because their used to dirty water. They even have Phosphate removing filter pads that work for an emergency...at Petsmart/Petco.

I'm using my reactor right now for this exact reason otherwise I'd let you borrow for a week to get things in order. Someone on here may let you borrow there reactor if you ask? The air bubbles your seeing are probably just getting trapped in the algae...doesnt necessarily mean you have DynoFlag's. Let me know if u have any more ?'s GL
 

ReefCheif

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
Platinum Sponsor
#19
I would reccomend just adding some activated carbon to your filtration, aggressive skimming, and possibly adjusting your lighting to a lower light schedule.

I was having similiar issues when I was running my lights on a 10 hour photo period, I dropped this to 9 hours, increased flow slightly, let skimmer run all day and added a phosphate sponge to the filtration and problem went away almost immediatly. Went back to the 10 hour light schedule and have not seen any type cyano or hair algea since. If your still having issues with diatoms Im going to say its the water your using.
 
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