brown alage or another tank cycle

ReefCheif

Reef Shark
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#61
deboy69;182666 said:
Ahh thats the problem. So my sump is fine than I just need more flow in my DT tank. This is why you all have the answers....

[video=youtube;-FucbvoFFy0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-FucbvoFFy0[/video]
God I loved this movie back in the day, Alice Coopers camio killed it.
 

deboy69

Nurse Shark
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#62
I can do that. The thing i dont find a lot of info on is where to put them. I have my return on the right side of my tank, intake on the left. I have my return split into to directionals one points up to make the ripple the other points down lower along the front glass. My koralia is mounted on the left side middle of the glass points down at a 45 degree angle. I have my rocks setup in each back corner. Where should i put my Powerhead?
 

deboy69

Nurse Shark
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#64
I put my 805 power head in just behind my return to circulate the front and aimed the two returns high and low on the rear wall with my koralia aimed down the middle. Is this ok or should I go with a circulation pattern around the walls?
 

ReefCheif

Reef Shark
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#65
Its hard to give you exact placement of your powerheads. Each set up is different, each rock stack is different. Pleacement is going to be based alot around your rock stack. From what I have understood, and what I have personally done is created a circular current around my stack. It took a lot of moving this powerhead there and that poerhead here.

Here is my reccomendation: Put an air pump with air stone all the way to the bottom of the tank in one of the corners. Turn said air pump on and watch how the bubbles circulate, this will help you pin point low flow to no flow areas so you can fix those. Once you get the bubbles successfully curculating through the tank youll know your current is good, however this may require adding more powerheads or changin to more powerful models. Its all trial and error really, you have to find the right placement for your set up.

Now Im no expert on current or flow by any means, maybe some of the more seasoned reefers can chime in here, but this is what I have done and its worked very well for me.
 

deboy69

Nurse Shark
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#66
As always no easy fix. Thanks for the tip and info I will give it a whirl (pun intended). Hopefully I can get a lot of impute and come up with a game plan
 

ReefCheif

Reef Shark
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#67
Its never easy at first, keep in mind your tank is still very young and youll likely battle things like this for the first year at least. The good news is with trial and error comes knowledge, if you ever have this issue again, youll know exactly how to fix it quickly, youll also know what to look for.
 

ShelbyJK500

Dolphin
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#70
Didn't have time to read through all the new posts...I'd say if you're fish are doing okay along with inverts...just leave it to "cook" for awhile. Too many water changes too quickly with a new/young tank can strip the water column of "aging". IMO of course.

You're nitrates are fine at 10. My nitrates were off the chart, like 160 or so not too long ago. I lost some inverts to the nitrates most likely (though not positive as most are fine)....but my fish and corals did just fine. Your phosphates are really high...what is your water source??
 

ShelbyJK500

Dolphin
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#71
Hmmm...read a bit more. I think adding Prime (which I can't remember if I suggested it) might not have helped if you're tank is still cycling. With your tank being young and possibly still creating it's bio-filter, the Prime would bind things needed to "complete" and maturate your bio-filter. Basically, the ammonia isn't a bad thing in a young tank that is cycling. It is necessary to make nitrite which is then turned to nitrate. So you're nitrate "spikes" could very well be coming from the process of ammonia being converted since it is still present.

I don't think your sand bed is "dying". I personally don't think flow has anything to do with the ammonia or nitrates. Many people run deep sand beds (DSB's), like I do in my refugium. In those scenarios, flow is severely limited over those sand beds but they are phenomenal at creating bio-filtration. Granted, DSB's need to be deep as is in the name, for this to work properly for the intended purpose...but just mentioned to say that because there is a dead spot in flow doesn't mean that part of your sand bed is dying.

BESIDES...the large majority of bio-filtration comes from live rock. Porous live rock harbors the largest surface area and ability to colonize the bacteria we all need in our tanks. This is why many people have bare-bottom tanks. Sand is not a requirement for bio-filtration. Most FOWLR tanks that have fake coral inside, require a good sized bio-ball system to create it's bio-filter.

This brings me full circle to the fact that I think the ammonia present in your tank is slowly, but surely being converted ultimately to nitrates which is why you see that rise. I would let the cycle complete to get that ammonia out before dosing anything else or trying to "clean" up your water. It's trying to balance out in my opinion and with so much intervention it probably is having a hard time.

All IMHO of course... ;)
 

CRW Reef

Blue Whale
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ex-officio
#73
So is this the tank with the "nasty" rock as blazin jack put it? If so I know you scrubbed it, but prob still has some die off on it which would cause another cycle potentially
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#75
I'm going to guess that there is something in the rock that is leeching phosphates into your system. That's what's feeding the diatom's and you won't get rid of them without either cooking the rock outside the tank, or completely killing the rock and starting over.
 

cdrewferd

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#76
Or it could just take 6 months for your cycle to be truely over.
 

ShelbyJK500

Dolphin
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#78
deboy69;183432 said:
Makes sense. Can my tank still be cycling 3 months later or a mini cycle?
Possibly, many factors can cause "mini cycles". When did you add your fish, at the beginning? All at the same time? Adding fish in a smaller water volume can increase ammonia quite a bit, lending to the need for bacteria to complete the nitrogen cycle. Just curious when/how you added the fish?

No way to know if your rock is leaching phosphate unless you take some out and test in a controlled environment. Water source is a big factor if you're getting crap water, which it sounds like you were from the LFS you had that high TDS.
 

deboy69

Nurse Shark
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#79
I added my fish after the cycle. Added did a few weeks apart. Now I only have only three fish and still have moderate to high levels
 

deboy69

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#80
I tested my rodi water today. Now I had 15 gallons already in my barrel of saltwater and added another 35 gallons to it. So the saltwater ( used instant ocean) is a little diluted right now. My phosphate was .10 in the barrel with my dt at .18.

Still I don't know why my ammonia is so high and everything is still alive and my zoas and anenome are doing fine. My tank cycles at about 4-6 weeks. I have had 0 readings across the board up until my die off. Added 2 damsels than two weeks or so after that 1 clown fish than 2 two fish 2 weeks later a tang and fire angel and than added 3 clown fish and a shrimp.
 
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