Flow Rate

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#1
So I have a tank with an internal overflow that hasn't been set up yet. The hole is drilled and I have the parts but had some questions about the flow rate of the tank since I'm not to familiar with this area. The internal over flow box is rated for 700GPH max and I have two return pumps, one is rated at 600 GPH and the other is rated at 700 GPH. Which one would be the preferred for this situation? The total water volume would be around 75 gallons.

Isn't the preferred flow rate 4x the total water volume of your tank?
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#4
For a tank that size you would be just fine only running 200-300GPH through the sump. This is assuming you are using other power heads inside the display. So I would use which ever pump is the lowest maintenance and highest efficiency.

I personally like lower flow through my sump to get longer contact time with the skimmer and other filtration components. For example my 200g display 350g total system only moves about 700gph through the sump. For my system this is good compromise between longer contact time and still allowing enough turbulent flow to keep as much sediment from collecting on the bottom of the sump as possible. I do run one small tunze in one compartment of the sump where I do still get some sediment settling. This helps to keep that sediment in that one spot in suspension so my skimmer and other mechanical filtration to remove.
 
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Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
IIRC I think general rule of thumb for flow is total volume times 10. As long as you are accomplishing that total flow with powerheads the return volume is less important.

Im my 60g nem cube I dont use powerheads for fear that one will get sucked into the pump. In this case I am using the return as my sole source of flow along with two sea swirls to randomize the flow. In that case I run a return pump that maxes out the 700gph limit the overflow can handle. Its still a little low on the flow than id like.
 

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#6
So obviously I wouldn't be able to slow down the flow rate on the return pump. Am I'm sure to slow down the flow for the internal over flow I would have to add a ball valve? For maximum skimmer contact I would just go with the skimmer flow rate correct? How would I be able to determine the flow rate if I slow it down with a ball valve?

Where would I find the sea swirl local?
 
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Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#7
Irishman;369252 said:
So obviously I wouldn't be able to slow down the flow rate on the return pump. Am I'm sure to slow down the flow for the internal over flow I would have to add a ball valve? For maximum skimmer contact I would just go with the skimmer flow rate correct? How would I be able to determine the flow rate if I slow it down with a ball valve?
Yeah you can it just depend on the type of pump as to how you do it. In some cases for some pumps you can simply put a gate valve in line with the output to dial it back. If I remember correctly that is best for centrifugal pumps.

If an inline gate valve is not an option for the type of pump you have you can just put a bleed valve teed off the ouput of the pump which basically allows you to just bleed some of the output back into the sump instead of pushing it all through the display. This is the same thing basically as running a reactor off your return pump. This is what I did for my 60g cube as the return pump I chose runs at 900gph and is not a good candidate for inline head pressure via a gate valve.
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#8
This is not a great pic but you can see how I used the upper red gate valve to bleed some of the flow back into the return pump chamber.

 

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#10
Yea I see what you did there. Did you make your stand for your cube? My main tank is currently a 60gal and I have the stand that's sold with the cube and I get no room in it at all. I notice that your stand has two entries on it, or is that just the back part of the stand?

Where did you find your plumbing?
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#11
The stand was custom made by a friend of mine. It actually opens on the front and both sides it's pretty sweet! You can see it in my detail in my 60g nem build thread. I ordered all the plumbing from BRS.
 

Walter White

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#12
Irishman;369252 said:
So obviously I wouldn't be able to slow down the flow rate on the return pump. Am I'm sure to slow down the flow for the internal over flow I would have to add a ball valve? For maximum skimmer contact I would just go with the skimmer flow rate correct? How would I be able to determine the flow rate if I slow it down with a ball valve?

Where would I find the sea swirl local?
Sorry totally missed the other questions you had. There a various ways to calculate the flow rate. RC has a calculator that will give a rough estimate. I can't imagine you willfind any sea swirls locally unless they are on Craigslist I ordered mine from marine depot. I'd only go the sea swirl route if you don't plan on using other powerheads as they are pricey for what they are.
 

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#13
Irishman;369252 said:
So obviously I wouldn't be able to slow down the flow rate on the return pump. Am I'm sure to slow down the flow for the internal over flow I would have to add a ball valve? For maximum skimmer contact I would just go with the skimmer flow rate correct? How would I be able to determine the flow rate if I slow it down with a ball valve?

Where would I find the sea swirl local?
Just to make sure everything is clear, you don't ever put a ball valve on the overflow drain line. You can slow the return with a gall or gate valve, but you want to do so by controlling flow back into the sump and not just inline to the display. This picture is a good way to do it.

 

Miah2bzy

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#14
Flow Rate

Irishman;369256 said:
Yea I see what you did there. Did you make your stand for your cube? My main tank is currently a 60gal and I have the stand that's sold with the cube and I get no room in it at all. I notice that your stand has two entries on it, or is that just the back part of the stand?

Where did you find your plumbing?
I got nearly all of my plumbing from lowes, gate valve was the only thing I had to get from brs.
 

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#15
Yea I'll probably hit up HD tomorrow and try to find some glass so I don't have to take apart a spare tank in order to do my baffles. I like the sump design stated above so I'm going to give that one a shot instead of the the traditional style I did for my main tank.
 

zombie

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#16
FYI the glass at home depot sucks. Super thin and isn't tempered. If you can get lucky and find one that carries at least 3/16" thick it would work, but the 1/8" stuff they usually have will likely break under pressure.
 

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#17
Yea I noticed that last time I was looking. Someone should buy sheets of glass for custom work like baffles or small projects and sell them to the MASC reefers so there is no waiting game or hard looking for.
 

SynDen

Administrator
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#18
I just ordered a bunch of pluming stuff for my tank build im working on. I went with sch80 pvc, because I like the look of it, but they carry several types and cheaper then lowes for the most part
http://pvcpipesupplies.com/

and yes HD glass sucks, try a glass and mirror supplier near you
 

Irishman

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#20
What would be the main difference between gate/gall valve vs ball valve?
 
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