Frag Tank Pre-Build/Conceptualizing: Lights, Equipment
- Thread starter Sour137
- Start date
hydras are pretty easy to control. I mean it's just a phone app and you only set it up once. Maybe minor adjusting occasionally but from what I read about those A160 you will have a hard time keeping SPS. LPS and softies should be fine if that's all you want. I was looking at Kessil before going back to Hydra too. I looked long and hard at many lights really for my build. It's only 6 weeks old so the tech is the same I'm sure lol. Another 360 and daisy chain them might be better if you will keep SPS
Well I have 2 360s on my dt. Right now I'm just looking into one for this frag set up. There is definitely more info on the 360, so I'd like to hear some opinions. Between a 24" 4 bar t5, the prime, and the kessil 160, what am I likely to get the most par from? The t5 is the cheapest so that's what I'm looking at right now. I know the t5 will eventually be more expensive due to replacing the bulbs, but I believe I'll get a better dispersion across the 24" square than the led systems.
I'm also somewhat interested in a similar par to the dt. The dt is a 48 inch, 75g, with the two 360s. From what I've seen on brs I should expect around 200 par at a depth of 12" beneath the lights. I have a center bar so a 3rd light wouldn't do much for but adding 2 more would be significant, and I may do that one day.
I'm also somewhat interested in a similar par to the dt. The dt is a 48 inch, 75g, with the two 360s. From what I've seen on brs I should expect around 200 par at a depth of 12" beneath the lights. I have a center bar so a 3rd light wouldn't do much for but adding 2 more would be significant, and I may do that one day.
SynDen
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retro fit t5 kits are fairly inexpensive and will out perform just about any premade fixture, because of the large individual reflectors they use. They arent that hard to assemble and or mount to a canopy, board or rails.
BRS carries kits that are pretty much complete for a lot less then you'll pay for any fixture
BRS carries kits that are pretty much complete for a lot less then you'll pay for any fixture
Agreed are halides needed for sps... No. Coloration better debatable (id vote yes) but t5 will do just as good a job as halides with the proper equipment. I have the retrofit kit SynDen mentions on my 215 and I love them. Easy to use/install.
If you look as the best coral shops with sps in Colorado (imo) aquatic art and gonzos they do not rely on led. Aa uses primarily halides with led supplement and gonzo uses t5 with led supplements.
If I were you. Keep the kessil add t5 get the best of both worlds.
If you look as the best coral shops with sps in Colorado (imo) aquatic art and gonzos they do not rely on led. Aa uses primarily halides with led supplement and gonzo uses t5 with led supplements.
If I were you. Keep the kessil add t5 get the best of both worlds.
To add, to my previous question, here are some costs;
The 8 bar t5 fixture, new bulbs, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 456.63.
The 4 bar t5 fixture, new bulbs, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 282.67
The 4 bar retrofit, bulbs, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 540.93
And the Kessil a160, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 317.72
So the T5 fixture 4 bar, remains the cheapest of all options. The prices above do not include the powerhead I will need to get, the egg crate, and any unforeseen costs. The prices also reflect plumbing the frag system directly to the sump. So naturally I'm still leaning towards the T5 4 bar fixture as that leaves the most wiggle room for those unforeseen costs. Why should I choose the T5 retrofit when it is the most expensive option on the table?
The 8 bar t5 fixture, new bulbs, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 456.63.
The 4 bar t5 fixture, new bulbs, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 282.67
The 4 bar retrofit, bulbs, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 540.93
And the Kessil a160, hydro basin, and wood for the stand bring the cost to 317.72
So the T5 fixture 4 bar, remains the cheapest of all options. The prices above do not include the powerhead I will need to get, the egg crate, and any unforeseen costs. The prices also reflect plumbing the frag system directly to the sump. So naturally I'm still leaning towards the T5 4 bar fixture as that leaves the most wiggle room for those unforeseen costs. Why should I choose the T5 retrofit when it is the most expensive option on the table?
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sun-blaze-t5-ho-lighting-fixture-sunlight-supply.html
I've tried to find better pictures so I can look at the reflectors, but I haven't found any worth while. For the 48" equivalent, people have reported sps growth in the reviews.
I've tried to find better pictures so I can look at the reflectors, but I haven't found any worth while. For the 48" equivalent, people have reported sps growth in the reviews.
Well, the acrylic company I used for my sump has not responded to my request for the frag tank. So today, I'm going to go down to a hydroponics store and look at the tray that I first listed in the OP. Does anyone have any experience with drilling one of these? Would I plumb it like a tank, ie: internal plumbing to bulkhead to external? What type of bit would I use to drill it?
Go with the T5 - I would do a 6 bulb. Point source LEDs are not great for sticks in frag tanks since they shadow and stuff - you will have like a 8" circle in the middle with good coverage (BRS has PAR maps in their infomercials). If you are growing these to sell or trade, people won't want lighter backsides of corals and you will get sick of turning them. If you don't want to change all of those bulbs, get a 150W 14K Phoenix Halide on a larger reflector and just change one bulb every two years. Both of these will light acropora than a single prime or kessil.
I have some running if you want to stop by and see - I am in Longmont.
I have some running if you want to stop by and see - I am in Longmont.