Help, my drains won't keep up with my pump.
- Thread starter asn-naso
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Help, my drains won't keep up with my pump.
The herbie style i think would be best for allot of reasons but if thats too much work to re-plumb it do as Mike sugested above with the extra return to the sump. You could put a ball valve on the extra return to the sump to control the flow to the display without loading the pump. In addition if you have a reator or two such as carbon, GFO, what have you could tee off the output of the pump to run these items and that should help solve the problem as well.
The herbie style i think would be best for allot of reasons but if thats too much work to re-plumb it do as Mike sugested above with the extra return to the sump. You could put a ball valve on the extra return to the sump to control the flow to the display without loading the pump. In addition if you have a reator or two such as carbon, GFO, what have you could tee off the output of the pump to run these items and that should help solve the problem as well.
All of the above are good suggestions but I don't think that will solve his problem. I believe the water isn't going through
the teeth of the overflow fast enough because when he removed the drain dursos, the water drained out of the overflow box
just fine but the teeth were not allowing enough water through so his tank would overflow even though the overflow was not full.
Correct me if I'm mistaken but that's the impression I have of the problem.
I'm wondering every other tooth should be removed. 1/4" is kinda small gap, opening up some of the teeth will allow more water to enter the overflow
and your dursos should be able to handle anything the MDX-4 can throw at it. JMHO
the teeth of the overflow fast enough because when he removed the drain dursos, the water drained out of the overflow box
just fine but the teeth were not allowing enough water through so his tank would overflow even though the overflow was not full.
Correct me if I'm mistaken but that's the impression I have of the problem.
I'm wondering every other tooth should be removed. 1/4" is kinda small gap, opening up some of the teeth will allow more water to enter the overflow
and your dursos should be able to handle anything the MDX-4 can throw at it. JMHO
Aahh...so looking back at your post where you said you pulled the 2 dursos...are you saying that running the pump on full throttle will overflow the display over the top of the tank and onto the floor? Yikes, if yes, I agree your problem is teeth size (and total in-tank overflow/plumbing capacity) being way too small for the pump size you have.
Kalgra has great suggestion added to Majicmike's suggestion. May want to give that some thought. After I originally plumbed my tank, I added 3 sump reactors to my system. In hindsight, I wish I did what Kalgra suggested...in getting an oversized return pump and plumbing off the return to use it for the reactors...however now I have 3 added powerheads in my sump as I did not plan that. You would have great flexibility down the road if you do this IMO.
Kalgra has great suggestion added to Majicmike's suggestion. May want to give that some thought. After I originally plumbed my tank, I added 3 sump reactors to my system. In hindsight, I wish I did what Kalgra suggested...in getting an oversized return pump and plumbing off the return to use it for the reactors...however now I have 3 added powerheads in my sump as I did not plan that. You would have great flexibility down the road if you do this IMO.
I have learned that it is better to run one or two bigger pumps than to run tons of little pumps to power things. 1-2 cords vs 5+ I know mine is one the bigger side of things but you get the idea. Right now we only have one pump running but this pump runs the tank upstairs 2 gfo reactors, 1 carbon, 1 filter, skimmer and a water change station with 2 open ports for anything else I would like to add later. also have a return line to the sump to help with water movement. I run a smaller set up like this on the nano
Like Jamie said, I have a hard time believing the drain will not handle that pump.
If you leave it running, do the drain lines ever create a full siphon? And with the full siphon the tank will still overflow? I think Gale has it right, that the teeth on the overflow are the restriction. If that is the case, I would remove them, then put up some netting to stop fish from going over.
If you leave it running, do the drain lines ever create a full siphon? And with the full siphon the tank will still overflow? I think Gale has it right, that the teeth on the overflow are the restriction. If that is the case, I would remove them, then put up some netting to stop fish from going over.
Yes, the drain lines do create a full siphon, the water level in the overflow area seems to stay constant, as the tank starts to overfill.
I noticed that using the ball valve to slow down my return, put too much pressure on the joints, and water started to seep through. While it wasn't much, I turned off my return pump last night. I figured it would be ok with a power head in the tank, and a heater also in the tank. I left it that way till about 2 minutes ago (I've been away from the house all day). I still have the pump turned off, but took a power head, hooked it up to some tubing, and am using it as a return till I get things figured out. Water flow is much slower, but it brings back the the use of my sump and skimmer.
H20_Intolerant - When will you be in Denver? Having a 2nd set of eyes is always a good thing.
I noticed that using the ball valve to slow down my return, put too much pressure on the joints, and water started to seep through. While it wasn't much, I turned off my return pump last night. I figured it would be ok with a power head in the tank, and a heater also in the tank. I left it that way till about 2 minutes ago (I've been away from the house all day). I still have the pump turned off, but took a power head, hooked it up to some tubing, and am using it as a return till I get things figured out. Water flow is much slower, but it brings back the the use of my sump and skimmer.
H20_Intolerant - When will you be in Denver? Having a 2nd set of eyes is always a good thing.
This pic shows the water level with a smaller powerhead acting as my return. There is about 2/3's of an inch between the top of the water and the tank.
[attachment=64106:name]
Pic of overflow area with Durso's removed, and little giant running full force:
[attachment=64107:name]
Plumbing pics:
[attachment=64108:name]
[attachment=64109:name]
This picture shows the water line going above the acrylic rim of the tank with the main pump on at full power. It is about 1/3 of an inch from overflowing. A little too close for comfort.
[attachment=64110:name]
I have been turning it off or tweaking it down thinking it was going to overflow, but I've left it on full power for about 5 minutes, and it seems to have topped out. While I believe the overflow isn't allowing enough water through for this pump, I have changed my mind and now believe it won't actually overflow onto the floor.
At this point, I think I want to go with a smaller pump, and probably an insump pump. This will take some flow away, but it will give me a better feeling where I won't have to worry about the smallest clog turning into a flooded floor. A smaller pump would also make less noise.
I do appreciate everyones help, and sorry for the firedrill. It just looked as if it was going to continue to fill the tank, and overflow.
[attachment=64106:name]
Pic of overflow area with Durso's removed, and little giant running full force:
[attachment=64107:name]
Plumbing pics:
[attachment=64108:name]
[attachment=64109:name]
This picture shows the water line going above the acrylic rim of the tank with the main pump on at full power. It is about 1/3 of an inch from overflowing. A little too close for comfort.
[attachment=64110:name]
I have been turning it off or tweaking it down thinking it was going to overflow, but I've left it on full power for about 5 minutes, and it seems to have topped out. While I believe the overflow isn't allowing enough water through for this pump, I have changed my mind and now believe it won't actually overflow onto the floor.
At this point, I think I want to go with a smaller pump, and probably an insump pump. This will take some flow away, but it will give me a better feeling where I won't have to worry about the smallest clog turning into a flooded floor. A smaller pump would also make less noise.
I do appreciate everyones help, and sorry for the firedrill. It just looked as if it was going to continue to fill the tank, and overflow.
From the pics, my concern is actually moreso in the overflow pic. Does that level of water siphon/gurgle down to the bottom then cycle/fill back up with that pump flow? If not, you probably would start overflowing everything from the sump over the top, if you let the pump run much longer than the 5 minutes that you let it go. Tank obviously is not designed for a pump that strong.
If you bought this used, do you know what pump the prior owner used? And how long he ran the setup? Maybe try the pump that is proven to work on this tank?
If you bought this used, do you know what pump the prior owner used? And how long he ran the setup? Maybe try the pump that is proven to work on this tank?
The tank is one of Gary's old tanks, and I don't believe he ever had it fully setup.
Also, the overflow area stays at a constant level.
I do agree that the pump is too strong, that kinda sucks, because this guy moves a ton of water, but it's also kinda good, because it helps me justify a quieter pump.
Also, the overflow area stays at a constant level.
I do agree that the pump is too strong, that kinda sucks, because this guy moves a ton of water, but it's also kinda good, because it helps me justify a quieter pump.