In line check valve

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oscarxj

Guest
#1
I don't know if this is the right place to post this so if it isn't you can move. I am looking for a in line check cable for my return put 1/2". Is there anyone in town that had them.

Thanks Ross
 

miwoodar

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#2
I don't know of anyone in town.

FWIW, check valves WILL fail in a reef. It's not a question of if. It's a question of when. Siphon-break holes are a good option for most designs (just tell your snails to stay away...I ended up making more holes after an episode). Keeping your return up high in the tank will help too in case the siphon-break is plugged.
 
#3
I was having the same problem and I'm trying a new thing with a check valve for air lines on the top of one of my returns. This return is some how a favorite for my snail to try and block. So far so good but I wouldnt leave it forever without checking. Part of my weekly maint. When the pumps are off I blow thru the line to check for pluggage. The air line runs down to my sump well above the water line just in case it ever fails it would just flow water into my sump. So far no problems. Siphon breaks instantly and valve looks fine. Pm if ya need more info on set up but its pretty simple and more reliable than an inline check on a return line.

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk
 
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oscarxj

Guest
#4
The promble I am having is if I lose power. A outage my refugium will flood. This the only reason I am looking for a in line check vavle. Thanks if anyone else can help let me know.
 

Bajamike

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
miwoodar;129566 said:
I don't know of anyone in town.

FWIW, check valves WILL fail in a reef. It's not a question of if. It's a question of when. Siphon-break holes are a good option for most designs (just tell your snails to stay away...I ended up making more holes after an episode). Keeping your return up high in the tank will help too in case the siphon-break is plugged.
That is what miwooar is talking about. Keep your returns high in the tank and (drill) a few holes in the return to break the siphon. I have drilled mine on the under side of my returns so water dont spray every where. ;)

Little hard to see with the algee in my over flows but I drill mine in the bottom corner of the elbow.
 

miwoodar

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#6
I'm not sure I'm following post number 3. 'Air line to the sump?'

I'm trying to describe the scenario below in post #2. Is this what you have now? I have four tiny holes on my return.

 
#7
What im describing is basically the same thing. Its a hole in the return that when the pump turns off woukd break the siphon.
I wanted to put the hole above the water line and out of reach of anything that could plug it.

So trying something different. The hole is on top of my return line.
To keep water from squirting out when the pump is on I have an airline check valve glued into the hole.
Just incase the check valve fails and it squirts water out the airline is pointed into my sump.

Nothin special just trying something a little different.

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk
 

ShelbyJK500

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#8
miwoodar;129593 said:
I'm not sure I'm following post number 3. 'Air line to the sump?'

I'm trying to describe the scenario below in post #2. Is this what you have now? I have four tiny holes on my return.

What size holes do you use for the siphon breaks? I am doing this tonight on my two tanks. One tank has only flex tubing so I'm concerned that the flex in the tubing will cause it to eventually plug. Also, what about drilling the siphon holes on the return line within the overflow box, instead of in or near the actual display tank (as shown in pic)? My drain in the overflow box is fairly low in the box so I'm assuming I could get away with siphon breaks inside the box as long as they are higher than where the drain is but below the water line when the pump is running?
 
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oscarxj

Guest
#10
damn you guys are great. I have always wanted to know what that little hole was. lol mine was covered my caroline algae lol. just opened it back up and it works great lol. thank you for the pics.

Thanks again i love this forum.
 

miwoodar

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#11
dirtefish;129604 said:
What im describing is basically the same thing. Its a hole in the return that when the pump turns off woukd break the siphon.
I wanted to put the hole above the water line and out of reach of anything that could plug it.

So trying something different. The hole is on top of my return line.
To keep water from squirting out when the pump is on I have an airline check valve glued into the hole.
Just incase the check valve fails and it squirts water out the airline is pointed into my sump.

Nothin special just trying something a little different.
Now I understand. Interesting idea.

ShelbyJK500;129610 said:
What size holes do you use for the siphon breaks? I am doing this tonight on my two tanks. One tank has only flex tubing so I'm concerned that the flex in the tubing will cause it to eventually plug. Also, what about drilling the siphon holes on the return line within the overflow box, instead of in or near the actual display tank (as shown in pic)? My drain in the overflow box is fairly low in the box so I'm assuming I could get away with siphon breaks inside the box as long as they are higher than where the drain is but below the water line when the pump is running?
Tiny holes...just large enough for a tooth pick to poke through (for cleaning). I think flex would work fine. They should work in an overflow box too provided that they are exposed to air soon after the power goes out and they are still high up in the overall return line setup (too low and the water column will be pushing down causing them to squirt water rather than pulling down causing them to suck air). They don't need to be below the water line when the pump is running either. As long as they aren't splashing and making a mess somewhere, they are fine above.

projectx;129616 said:
I got one at Aquamart, that was a few months ago, dont know if they have them still
I haven't been there in too long. A trip is overdue.

oscarxj said:
damn you guys are great. I have always wanted to know what that little hole was. lol mine was covered my caroline algae lol. just opened it back up and it works great lol. thank you for the pics.

Thanks again i love this forum.
:) Glad to be able to help. Unfortunately I learn most of these tricks after they are needed. OT, but does your xj have anything to do with my yj?
 

miwoodar

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#13
My yj is a wuss. 31's with a 1" BL. I already have too many hobbies and have yet to open that one any further than just a nibble. There are a handful of off roaders here on MASC though.
 
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oscarxj

Guest
#14
sweet my xj is on 36s locker front and is on full width. Dana 44 front ford 8.8 rear. long arms front and 4 link back. lol know more leafs for me. we will have to hook up and go play this summer.
 

miwoodar

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#15
Nice. You are ready for Pirate! Everything else on mine is stock. It even lived in a garage for 9 years on street tires before I got it. At least it's on KOs these days. The clock just turned 70K.

This is what I do with my quadratec catalogs...
 

ShelbyJK500

Dolphin
M.A.S.C Club Member
#16
OP...sorry for hi-jacking a bit. ;)

miwoodar;129643 said:
Tiny holes...just large enough for a tooth pick to poke through (for cleaning). I think flex would work fine. They should work in an overflow box too provided that they are exposed to air soon after the power goes out and they are still high up in the overall return line setup (too low and the water column will be pushing down causing them to squirt water rather than pulling down causing them to suck air). They don't need to be below the water line when the pump is running either. As long as they aren't splashing and making a mess somewhere, they are fine above.
Thanks Mike!! That helps alot, I drilled holes way to big last night then. And it did cause a small mess. ;) I have to figure out where/how I'm going to do it. I'd rather not drill into the loc-line, but I may have too. I have a good amount of water pressure coming from the basement so a nice steady stream seems to come from the drilled holes, so drilling into the return pipe might not work. :(

miwoodar;129655 said:
OT, but does your xj have anything to do with my yj?

My yj is a wuss. 31's with a 1" BL. I already have too many hobbies and have yet to open that one any further than just a nibble. There are a handful of off roaders here on MASC though.
JEEPERS!! :) The JK in my screen name "may" stand for something. ;) I'm with you Mike, as soon as I get my build completely up and running, I'll focus my efforts back on the JK.

oscarxj;129661 said:
sweet my xj is on 36s locker front and is on full width. Dana 44 front ford 8.8 rear. long arms front and 4 link back. lol know more leafs for me. we will have to hook up and go play this summer.
NICE!!
 

miwoodar

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#18
LOL...for some reason I've always put the Shelby and the 500 together. That's a car for a younger me. My bike didn't get named Eleanor by accident though. :)

My holes are actually drilled directly into the loc-line...the piece that screws into the bulkhead...the grooves are perfect.

 
#20
Mine get covered constantly, hence testing the line outside of the tank idea. Did a water change today and checked on the valve and can tell its already starting to lose its effectiveness.
For the little check valve i was using it has gathered some condensation inside and a bit of algae. Will do a wrap of black tape on it to see if that helps. Doubt it though lol.

As far as check valves failing, when u have 900 gallons an hour passing through even the smallest pieces of debris will eventually stick to the innards of the valve. Any mechanical movement will eventually have some sort of interference lessening its effectiveness and eventually stopping it from functioning.

I recall an old gravel vac I had was built with a mechanical check valve. The sort that had a flap that would cover the outlet when current began moving in the wrong direction. Basically flow would pull a flap down and the water would stop moving. This however doesnt stop the siphon it just stops the flow. The siphon will hold until air is introduced into the line. Thankfully when the valve stopped working on the gravel vac it just would pull back the dirty water in the line.

Not to say that a check valve inline wouldnt work atleast for a bit, but the same way that debris blocked my gravel vacs valve the same thing would eventually happen to the inline.
 
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