I don't know of anyone in town.
FWIW, check valves WILL fail in a reef. It's not a question of if. It's a question of when. Siphon-break holes are a good option for most designs (just tell your snails to stay away...I ended up making more holes after an episode). Keeping your return up high in the tank will help too in case the siphon-break is plugged.
FWIW, check valves WILL fail in a reef. It's not a question of if. It's a question of when. Siphon-break holes are a good option for most designs (just tell your snails to stay away...I ended up making more holes after an episode). Keeping your return up high in the tank will help too in case the siphon-break is plugged.
I was having the same problem and I'm trying a new thing with a check valve for air lines on the top of one of my returns. This return is some how a favorite for my snail to try and block. So far so good but I wouldnt leave it forever without checking. Part of my weekly maint. When the pumps are off I blow thru the line to check for pluggage. The air line runs down to my sump well above the water line just in case it ever fails it would just flow water into my sump. So far no problems. Siphon breaks instantly and valve looks fine. Pm if ya need more info on set up but its pretty simple and more reliable than an inline check on a return line.
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That is what miwooar is talking about. Keep your returns high in the tank and (drill) a few holes in the return to break the siphon. I have drilled mine on the under side of my returns so water dont spray every where. 
Little hard to see with the algee in my over flows but I drill mine in the bottom corner of the elbow.
Little hard to see with the algee in my over flows but I drill mine in the bottom corner of the elbow.
What im describing is basically the same thing. Its a hole in the return that when the pump turns off woukd break the siphon.
I wanted to put the hole above the water line and out of reach of anything that could plug it.
So trying something different. The hole is on top of my return line.
To keep water from squirting out when the pump is on I have an airline check valve glued into the hole.
Just incase the check valve fails and it squirts water out the airline is pointed into my sump.
Nothin special just trying something a little different.
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I wanted to put the hole above the water line and out of reach of anything that could plug it.
So trying something different. The hole is on top of my return line.
To keep water from squirting out when the pump is on I have an airline check valve glued into the hole.
Just incase the check valve fails and it squirts water out the airline is pointed into my sump.
Nothin special just trying something a little different.
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miwoodar;129593 said:
I'm not sure I'm following post number 3. 'Air line to the sump?'
I'm trying to describe the scenario below in post #2. Is this what you have now? I have four tiny holes on my return.
I'm trying to describe the scenario below in post #2. Is this what you have now? I have four tiny holes on my return.
Now I understand. Interesting idea.
Tiny holes...just large enough for a tooth pick to poke through (for cleaning). I think flex would work fine. They should work in an overflow box too provided that they are exposed to air soon after the power goes out and they are still high up in the overall return line setup (too low and the water column will be pushing down causing them to squirt water rather than pulling down causing them to suck air). They don't need to be below the water line when the pump is running either. As long as they aren't splashing and making a mess somewhere, they are fine above.
I haven't been there in too long. A trip is overdue.
Glad to be able to help. Unfortunately I learn most of these tricks after they are needed. OT, but does your xj have anything to do with my yj?
Tiny holes...just large enough for a tooth pick to poke through (for cleaning). I think flex would work fine. They should work in an overflow box too provided that they are exposed to air soon after the power goes out and they are still high up in the overall return line setup (too low and the water column will be pushing down causing them to squirt water rather than pulling down causing them to suck air). They don't need to be below the water line when the pump is running either. As long as they aren't splashing and making a mess somewhere, they are fine above.
I haven't been there in too long. A trip is overdue.
oscarxj said:
damn you guys are great. I have always wanted to know what that little hole was. 
mine was covered my caroline algae . just opened it back up and it works great . thank you for the pics.
Thanks again i love this forum.
mine was covered my caroline algae . just opened it back up and it works great . thank you for the pics. Thanks again i love this forum.
Glad to be able to help. Unfortunately I learn most of these tricks after they are needed. OT, but does your xj have anything to do with my yj?
OP...sorry for hi-jacking a bit.
Thanks Mike!! That helps alot, I drilled holes way to big last night then. And it did cause a small mess. I have to figure out where/how I'm going to do it. I'd rather not drill into the loc-line, but I may have too. I have a good amount of water pressure coming from the basement so a nice steady stream seems to come from the drilled holes, so drilling into the return pipe might not work.
JEEPERS!! The JK in my screen name "may" stand for something. I'm with you Mike, as soon as I get my build completely up and running, I'll focus my efforts back on the JK.
NICE!!
Thanks Mike!! That helps alot, I drilled holes way to big last night then. And it did cause a small mess.
I have to figure out where/how I'm going to do it. I'd rather not drill into the loc-line, but I may have too. I have a good amount of water pressure coming from the basement so a nice steady stream seems to come from the drilled holes, so drilling into the return pipe might not work. JEEPERS!!
The JK in my screen name "may" stand for something. I'm with you Mike, as soon as I get my build completely up and running, I'll focus my efforts back on the JK.
oscarxj;129661 said:
sweet my xj is on 36s locker front and is on full width. Dana 44 front ford 8.8 rear. long arms front and 4 link back. know more leafs for me. we will have to hook up and go play this summer.
know more leafs for me. we will have to hook up and go play this summer.
Mine get covered constantly, hence testing the line outside of the tank idea. Did a water change today and checked on the valve and can tell its already starting to lose its effectiveness.
For the little check valve i was using it has gathered some condensation inside and a bit of algae. Will do a wrap of black tape on it to see if that helps. Doubt it though.
As far as check valves failing, when u have 900 gallons an hour passing through even the smallest pieces of debris will eventually stick to the innards of the valve. Any mechanical movement will eventually have some sort of interference lessening its effectiveness and eventually stopping it from functioning.
I recall an old gravel vac I had was built with a mechanical check valve. The sort that had a flap that would cover the outlet when current began moving in the wrong direction. Basically flow would pull a flap down and the water would stop moving. This however doesnt stop the siphon it just stops the flow. The siphon will hold until air is introduced into the line. Thankfully when the valve stopped working on the gravel vac it just would pull back the dirty water in the line.
Not to say that a check valve inline wouldnt work atleast for a bit, but the same way that debris blocked my gravel vacs valve the same thing would eventually happen to the inline.
For the little check valve i was using it has gathered some condensation inside and a bit of algae. Will do a wrap of black tape on it to see if that helps. Doubt it though
.As far as check valves failing, when u have 900 gallons an hour passing through even the smallest pieces of debris will eventually stick to the innards of the valve. Any mechanical movement will eventually have some sort of interference lessening its effectiveness and eventually stopping it from functioning.
I recall an old gravel vac I had was built with a mechanical check valve. The sort that had a flap that would cover the outlet when current began moving in the wrong direction. Basically flow would pull a flap down and the water would stop moving. This however doesnt stop the siphon it just stops the flow. The siphon will hold until air is introduced into the line. Thankfully when the valve stopped working on the gravel vac it just would pull back the dirty water in the line.
Not to say that a check valve inline wouldnt work atleast for a bit, but the same way that debris blocked my gravel vacs valve the same thing would eventually happen to the inline.