Phosphates

#1
I got my Hanna phosphate checker and I'm at .07 is that low enough for sps?
 

Smiley

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#2
Its low enough however you still need to keep up on maintenance so phos stays low to zero. Do you know what is causing your phosphate? Frozen foods, over feeding, rocks?

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#3
Smiley;192497 said:
Its low enough however you still need to keep up on maintenance so phos stays low to zero. Do you know what is causing your phosphate? Frozen foods, over feeding, rocks?

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Not sure what's causing i feed rods frozen every 2-4 days. auto feed the smallest amount i can flake and pellets everyday, and a 2"x 3" algee sheet every 2-4 days. Not sure about the rocks they been in there 1 1/2 years but previously only checked phosphate with API color test always none detectable. The reason I'm asking is I can grow birdsnest but can not keep plating monti alive. I can grow frogspawn, hammer, and Duncan but cannot keep acans alive. Other perameters are ok
Temp 78.5
Salinity 1.025 refractometer
Ph 8.2 API
Amonia 0. API
Nitrates 0. API
Nitrites 0. API
Phosphates .07 Hanna checker
Calcium 400 salifert
Magnesium 1200 salifert
I try to do 15-20 gallon water changes every two weeks. I use coral pro salt
Thanks
 

Smiley

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#4
Mag is a little low, keep between 1350 and 1600. What is your alkalinity sitting at? IME, my acans and plates were the first to show signs of low alkalinity.

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jahmic

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#5
An easy one to overlook that gave me issues early on...have you calibrated the refractometer with 1.026 standard solution? Mine was off significantly (by 0.04) because I attempted to calibrate it with RO water instead.
 
#6
Smiley;192503 said:
Mag is a little low, keep between 1350 and 1600. What is your alkalinity sitting at? IME, my acans and plates were the first to show signs of low alkalinity.

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Sorry alk was 7 API test
I am going to try weekly water changes for a while and see what that does.
Thanks
 
#7
jahmic;192507 said:
An easy one to overlook that gave me issues early on...have you calibrated the refractometer with 1.026 standard solution? Mine was off significantly (by 0.04) because I attempted to calibrate it with RO water instead.
Yes I have the American Marine Inc. Pinpoint 1.026 calibration fluid. Is that what everyone uses?
 

jahmic

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#10
Sasquatchluvin;192517 said:
Yes I have the American Marine Inc. Pinpoint 1.026 calibration fluid. Is that what everyone uses?
Pretty much...I actually mixed my own solution with RO and 100% sea salt, but either way you should be good there.

I'd agree with getting a better alk test kit and raising your alk...but do it slowly. My tank was hovering at 7 for a while, and I got swings as low as 6.5 as measured with the salifert kit. In that range of 6-7 you'd likely be getting some pH swings which affect coral health. I've also had some issues with that API pH test kit (as well as the alk kit). Granted, mine was close to the expiration date, but using their "high range" pH kit I was getting readings of 8.2 - 8.4 consistently...the salifert kit read 8.0. My API alk kit was indicating a kH of 7.5 - 8.0...tested with the salifert kit and got a 6.7.

The color bars are just difficult to read, and a bit unreliable. The salifert kits have you slowly add solution (titrate) until you get a distinct color change.
 
#11
Smiley;192531 said:
And get a good test kit like salifert or red sea.

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Ok I retested with salifert( I was trying to use up the API kit) and got a alk of 6. So what's the best way of raising alk and keeping it there?
Thanks for the help
 

Cake_Boss

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
#12
I personally like using 2 part, check out the link in my sig.

I know I'm in the minority in thinking this, but keeping your mag up helps with it too. Actually I would urge you to test for it. I can also guarantee you'll see better results, color and growth, with keeping your mag at the upper end of the acceptable range.
 
#13
rockys_pride;192551 said:
I personally like using 2 part, check out the link in my sig.

I know I'm in the minority in thinking this, but keeping your mag up helps with it too. Actually I would urge you to test for it. I can also guarantee you'll see better results, color and growth, with keeping your mag at the upper end of the acceptable range.
Ok I got my Doser going, I'm dosing salifert coral calcium, and salifert magnesium. It's been setting around for about a year and a half so I topped both off with what was left in the bottles. Should be ok a?
 

Smiley

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#14
I would start by switching salts. Microblift and salinity have better values with higher alk. Then I would use BRS 2-part with your dosing pump.

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#15
Smiley;192560 said:
I would start by switching salts. Microblift and salinity have better values with higher alk. Then I would use BRS 2-part with your dosing pump.

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Is that what the majority on here use?
Thanks for the info.
 

Smiley

Nurse Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#16
Its what Ive used for the past few years with great success. I only recommend 3 salts from my experience.. Seachem Reef Salt for lps softie tanks, Salinity for mixed reefs (cloudy for a few hours after mix), and Microbe-Lift for mixed reefs (not cloudy after mix). Both salinity and microbe-lift have consistency from bucket to bucket with elevated levels of calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium.

I am and will continue to use microbe-lift as it has been dead nuts on from batch to batch and have had no problems with anything. I like to use my water about 15 minutes after mixing and with microbe-lift, there is no cloudiness. Microbe-lift is made in the USA.

As far as 2-part, IME the bulk reef supply is the easiest and cheapest and comes pre-measured for gallon jugs. B-Ionic is also great but expensive. I like the BRS stuff and use it with a bubble magus doser. I use gallon vinegar jugs with rigid airline tubing suspended an inch off bottom of jug to keep from getting the settlements into my tank.



Remember... consistency is the key to thriving reefs. Fluctuations in alkalinity are deadly for coral. Phosphates inhibit color and growth. DO NOT dose anything that you do not test for. NEVER EVER show your spouse the receipt from your LFS.
 
#18
Smiley;192632 said:
Its what Ive used for the past few years with great success. I only recommend 3 salts from my experience.. Seachem Reef Salt for lps softie tanks, Salinity for mixed reefs (cloudy for a few hours after mix), and Microbe-Lift for mixed reefs (not cloudy after mix). Both salinity and microbe-lift have consistency from bucket to bucket with elevated levels of calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium.

I am and will continue to use microbe-lift as it has been dead nuts on from batch to batch and have had no problems with anything. I like to use my water about 15 minutes after mixing and with microbe-lift, there is no cloudiness. Microbe-lift is made in the USA.

As far as 2-part, IME the bulk reef supply is the easiest and cheapest and comes pre-measured for gallon jugs. B-Ionic is also great but expensive. I like the BRS stuff and use it with a bubble magus doser. I use gallon vinegar jugs with rigid airline tubing suspended an inch off bottom of jug to keep from getting the settlements into my tank.



Remember... consistency is the key to thriving reefs. Fluctuations in alkalinity are deadly for coral. Phosphates inhibit color and growth. DO NOT dose anything that you do not test for. NEVER EVER show your spouse the receipt from your LFS.
I mix salt and let it set for up to a month, is that ok? Can I do that with the salts you recomened?
 

CRW Reef

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
#20
I would test it. Mix a fresh batch and then test. Wait a week and test again. I know some people doing that were having issues with the alk droping off in just a few days with salinity.
 
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