Quarantine tank disaster
- Thread starter fonduecat
- Start date
ya, my stand is open. i open my windows on warm days. I does help some,
I use brs soda ash to raise ph maybe something else works better? To get my ph up to 8.2 my alk goes up to 14.
after lots of reads on forums i just ignore it, only 2 corals look unhappy and they have been slowly receding since the day i bought them.
A purply blue moon coral and a yellow and green goniatsria - just very very slowy fading away. my lobo's dont do well either.
I use brs soda ash to raise ph maybe something else works better? To get my ph up to 8.2 my alk goes up to 14.
after lots of reads on forums i just ignore it, only 2 corals look unhappy and they have been slowly receding since the day i bought them.
A purply blue moon coral and a yellow and green goniatsria - just very very slowy fading away. my lobo's dont do well either.
I measured everything after the tang and before putting in the wrasse, all levels were normal. I will have to look into doing copper instead, I had no idea hypo could be so bad for the fish. The clown I'm worried about is already an odd ball, I'd hate to damage him more.
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Heres an idea, quit chasing PH, and quit jacking other peoples threads, just sayin!
Wasnt this thread about a QT issue and developing ich while in QT? How did this end up talking about NeonNate's... I mean GreenNate's PH. LMAO!
Now, back on subject. What temp do you keep your QT tank? I reccomend a slightly elevated temp in QT, I keep mine around 82. The higher temp helps stop the life cycle of the crypto (real name for saltwater ich). Also, when having fish in QT I reccomend small, but daily or every other day water changes. I myself use a 40 breeder as a QT and when housing fish I do a 5 gallon water change every other day, I feed heavy with algeas and garlic and I DONT USE COPPER!
Believe it or not, I would reccomend hypo before I reccomend copper, and if you use copper plan on doubling the QT time as you get the water back to normal perameters. Reason is this, copper destroys the fish's immune system and it can get to a point where only the copper in the tank is keeping the fish healthy, so you slowly have to remove the copper fomr the water so the fish can build its immune system back up. If you added it to DT right after QT in these conditions the outcome will not likely be pretty for the fish. Ive actually killed an ich outbreak on my 180gal wihtout the use of any chemicals, without the loss of any fish or corals in the process, simply by a hearty diet and elevated temperatures.
I wrote up an article a while back for my own reference on my dealings with crypto, I was gonna post it, but Im my own worst critic, so Ive kept it private. Id be happy to send you a PDF copy if you would like to read about my personal methods and expericnes, it may help, it may not, would be much easier than posting it all here.
Wasnt this thread about a QT issue and developing ich while in QT? How did this end up talking about NeonNate's... I mean GreenNate's PH. LMAO!
Now, back on subject. What temp do you keep your QT tank? I reccomend a slightly elevated temp in QT, I keep mine around 82. The higher temp helps stop the life cycle of the crypto (real name for saltwater ich). Also, when having fish in QT I reccomend small, but daily or every other day water changes. I myself use a 40 breeder as a QT and when housing fish I do a 5 gallon water change every other day, I feed heavy with algeas and garlic and I DONT USE COPPER!
Believe it or not, I would reccomend hypo before I reccomend copper, and if you use copper plan on doubling the QT time as you get the water back to normal perameters. Reason is this, copper destroys the fish's immune system and it can get to a point where only the copper in the tank is keeping the fish healthy, so you slowly have to remove the copper fomr the water so the fish can build its immune system back up. If you added it to DT right after QT in these conditions the outcome will not likely be pretty for the fish. Ive actually killed an ich outbreak on my 180gal wihtout the use of any chemicals, without the loss of any fish or corals in the process, simply by a hearty diet and elevated temperatures.
I wrote up an article a while back for my own reference on my dealings with crypto, I was gonna post it, but Im my own worst critic, so Ive kept it private. Id be happy to send you a PDF copy if you would like to read about my personal methods and expericnes, it may help, it may not, would be much easier than posting it all here.
You can go hypo or copper with about equal results IMO. If you go hypo, then stay away from butterflies, most wrasses and some others that I am forgetting. If you go copper, then also some butterflies.
I keep my qt tank about 1.018 and then if the fish show signs of disease, I put in just enough copper safe to stop the cycle... this is way less than the amount required to kill the parasite on the fish (which can be a lot)... like 1/4 of the normal dose. This gets the fish feeling good and ready to go.
In addition to garlic, which I do think helps, ginger is also a nice additive for disease. The evidence is all anecdotal, just like the garlic, but I believe it.
The best thing about QT is that if you can get your fish to eat pellets, then you can always soak them in even more garlic if something should happen in the tank.
I keep my qt tank about 1.018 and then if the fish show signs of disease, I put in just enough copper safe to stop the cycle... this is way less than the amount required to kill the parasite on the fish (which can be a lot)... like 1/4 of the normal dose. This gets the fish feeling good and ready to go.
In addition to garlic, which I do think helps, ginger is also a nice additive for disease. The evidence is all anecdotal, just like the garlic, but I believe it.
The best thing about QT is that if you can get your fish to eat pellets, then you can always soak them in even more garlic if something should happen in the tank.
I think they mystery may have been solved.... My friend helped me set up the tank and when talking about it, we realized a fatal flaw we didn't think about (No more setting up tanks late at night!) The PVC pipe we got for the tank was covered in stickers and we generously used goo-gone and believe we didn't wash the parts off enough that it contaminated the tank. We drained the tank and now need to figure out the best way to clean it to get rid of any left over residue.
Ah ha! Finally I can throw in my own .02 on the matter. Most types of "residue" left by a cleaning product, notably Goo-Gone, is usually oil based, so any type of surfactant will remove it. The trick is finding one that's tank friendly after rinsing. Luckily, soda ash in a heated water solution will leave it cleaner than a whistle (FYI, hardwood fire ashes are an excellent substitute). You should be able to find some cleaning mixture ratios online. Just remember, it is a caustic solution, so wear some chemical resistant gloves (no latex or dish gloves, we're talking industrial chemical resistant gloves), protective eye wear and spare clothing, just in case you splash or spill.
That's a strong clean up project. I ended up rinsing it out more times than I care to count, wiping it out and rinsing it again, and repeating. I filled it up, but am to scared to put anything in it.
In unrelated news I think I have a semi used tank to sell :-D
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