i was actually thinking about getting a full time exhaust fan. But it has restraints.... has to have a 4" or less, and either able to run 30' before exits house (with 4 90's), or someone has to come cut a 4" hole in my brick wall. If I could find my camera, i'll take a pick of the ceiling over this room.
Smiley's Salt System
- Thread starter Smiley
- Start date
Here is my ceiling... notice it is all ready to add a sink since it has hot/cold water and drain access. The copper line that runs to the left feeds the dishwasher. Right above is the kitchen hence the water/drain. Question is, to the left of the pipes is a space between floor joists that i would like to put the exhaust fan. I have brick on the front of the house that sits on top of the concrete block wall so in order to vent the fan, id have to cut a hole in the brick. Is that easy?
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here is the basement layout...
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and here is the crap in the rest of the basement.
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Im not sure if humidity will be an issue or not with the furnace in the same room, anyone have experience with this?
[attachment=62923:name]
here is the basement layout...
[attachment=62924:name]
and here is the crap in the rest of the basement.
[attachment=62925:name]
Im not sure if humidity will be an issue or not with the furnace in the same room, anyone have experience with this?
cuting brick is pretty easy masory blade in a saw works just fine the humidity needs to go out because your furnace sucks in a lot of air and i would worry about the increased humidity rusting out the heat exchanger in your furnace can you box in the furnace and add a seperat cold air intake vent for it?
It should fill the small holes if you put it on thick enough, then should seal the pores as it dries, to do correctly ussualy takes a few coats... it is a pain to use but will help greatly with moisture, u just as well seal the concrete on the floor too with standard concrete sealent. Sense ur at it already ya know
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can't you just run a dehumidifier in there? wouldn't an exhaust fan right next to the tanks make the temperature harder to control in that room? my fish room is in a small furnace room, the furnace air intake causes the room to drop temp quite a bit in winter. i had to double heater wattage of all my tanks in there.
i had to drylok a stone wall (not cinder block) basement once. worst home improvement experience ever, still have nightmares.
i had to drylok a stone wall (not cinder block) basement once. worst home improvement experience ever, still have nightmares.
Good thing we only deal with high water bills in this hobby 
Doing anything for humidity in Colorado seems like overkill, unless it is major water volume, unventilated room and completely confined space? I have about 350G of total system volume/churn and I still run our house HVAC humidifier at 50% humidity all day...and still go through chapstick nonstop...haha
Doing anything for humidity in Colorado seems like overkill, unless it is major water volume, unventilated room and completely confined space? I have about 350G of total system volume/churn and I still run our house HVAC humidifier at 50% humidity all day...and still go through chapstick nonstop...haha
huge water bill? i just got the prices and it will cost roughly $2.23 per 1,000 gallons. I think I was paying over $6.00 per 1,000 gallons in Cali... I think I wont mind the smaller bill.
Also... since I plan on putting the cat litter box inside a cabinet with a vent, i think ill use a bathroom exhaust fan for it...that might be enough exhaust for the room. Might even help with the Radon.
Also... since I plan on putting the cat litter box inside a cabinet with a vent, i think ill use a bathroom exhaust fan for it...that might be enough exhaust for the room. Might even help with the Radon.
small update:
I finished painting the 2 walls, and decided to continue on and do the rest of the basement i have access to. Between my footing and floor is a 1/2" gap that had felt or some **** filling it. some place it is gone. I need to fill this gap with some type of sealer. It was recommended to me to use some grey self leveling **** in a yellow tube, which cost $7 each. I got 2 tubes and got about 8ft filled. About an hour later it had all self leveled itself into the gap thus still leaving a gap. What different should I use? I have Radon entering my basement so I would want it to help reduce that issue as well.
I recieved all my replacement filters and extra equiplment for my ro/di from the group buy. I got it all hooked up last night and turned it on. My pressure is about 80psi right after the canisters and before the membranes. My auto shut off valve started leaking through the case. Figured either I have too much pressure for it or i need a new one. Just ordered 2 from BRS in hopes it fixes the problem.
I finished painting the 2 walls, and decided to continue on and do the rest of the basement i have access to. Between my footing and floor is a 1/2" gap that had felt or some **** filling it. some place it is gone. I need to fill this gap with some type of sealer. It was recommended to me to use some grey self leveling **** in a yellow tube, which cost $7 each. I got 2 tubes and got about 8ft filled. About an hour later it had all self leveled itself into the gap thus still leaving a gap. What different should I use? I have Radon entering my basement so I would want it to help reduce that issue as well.
I recieved all my replacement filters and extra equiplment for my ro/di from the group buy. I got it all hooked up last night and turned it on. My pressure is about 80psi right after the canisters and before the membranes. My auto shut off valve started leaking through the case. Figured either I have too much pressure for it or i need a new one. Just ordered 2 from BRS in hopes it fixes the problem.
I bet HD can recommend something that will work best, probably just caulk it with concrete joint sealant or something. Sorry my smart aleck comment before was because I thought you were kidding about kitty and radon. Caulking would only help with the radon if you seal all cracks/joints in the basement (otherwise radon will get sucked through somewhere else at higher pressure and the net level won't change). Are you sure you have to worry about the radon?
If you're going to cover the sealing after the fact, Great Stuff would work. It definitely looks gooey/messy though, so you wouldn't want to use it as a final finishing-type cover.
If you're going to cover the sealing after the fact, Great Stuff would work. It definitely looks gooey/messy though, so you wouldn't want to use it as a final finishing-type cover.