Sump location

#21
Sump location

Munch;252195 said:
Any issue with using flexible vinyl tubing for return and drain lines from 1st floor to basement? I have 2 - 1" ID drains, and 1 - 3/4" ID return. I plan on using the proper plastic hose clamps as well. It would greatly simplify my plumbing job.
I have know of a couple people that have used the flexible and they all ended up switching to hard PVC.


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joeMASC

Cleaner Shrimp
M.A.S.C Club Member
#22
Sump location

If the pipes are exposed to lighting you can get algae growth in the flexible ones if they are clear. You can use flex hose like is used in spas that is white and avoid that problem, but it isn't cheap.
 

Munch

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#24
What's the best way to plumb for water changes? Assuming the tank is 75 gallons, then sump might be 30. So I'm looking at ~10 gallon changes.

Am I best to tap into the drain line off the display tank, or tap into the return line with valves that can divert water into my drain?
 

Munch

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#25
Crude design for sump, with frag tank tied in...

Anyone see issues?

I need to redo some plumbing which will require stripping some paint of the back wall of my frag tank. But hopefully this diagram makes some sense...

Ack, lower legs are 18", not 8"

[attachment=64647:name]
 

daverf

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#26
Munch;252449 said:
What's the best way to plumb for water changes? Assuming the tank is 75 gallons, then sump might be 30. So I'm looking at ~10 gallon changes.

Am I best to tap into the drain line off the display tank, or tap into the return line with valves that can divert water into my drain?
There's a lot of ways to do this, lots of variables and preference at play. If you plan your sump baffles so that 10 gallons can flow from your return pump without it running dry, then you could tap into the drain line and water changes would go pretty quick (by just valving off the return line then using the return pump to export the water change). Baffles could hamper this...which is why... I am a HUGE fan of baffle-less sumps. They let you do water changes of any volume (up to or greater than your sump volume), let you reconfigure your sump down the road without pulling it offline and cutting/replacing glass, etc. You can use eggcrate and zip lines to build platforms and set water lines, filter floss to get rid of bubbles and water line ripples, small rubbermate tote bins to contain DSBs etc. I think of baffle-less sumps as hot-swappable and reconfigurable on the fly. But that's just the way I'd do it.
 

Munch

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#27
I already picked up my sump, which has baffles, guess I need to measure how much water it'll hold once the pumps are all off. You have given me some good info to think about, thanks!
 

daverf

Tang
M.A.S.C Club Member
#28
Munch;253036 said:
I already picked up my sump, which has baffles, guess I need to measure how much water it'll hold once the pumps are all off. You have given me some good info to think about, thanks!
NP. If you do put the WC line tapped off the return line, and shut off the return pump before starting the water change, then your sump will backfill with the transit volume (which will overflow your sump baffles), so you can expect that a WC using this method will drain the gallons in your return pump baffle plus your transit volume. You can roughly calculate this, but won't know for sure until the system is running. If this limits the WC gallons too much, you could always siphon the tank out with a gravel vaccum and 5G bucket once in awhile...old fashion way, but gotta the the gunk off the rock/sand every now and then...

I alsoi
 

Bajamike

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#29
Just seen this. First there is no way I would use a dart to go from the basement they just don't make enough head IMO. I use the dart to run our skimmer. Iwaki makes a good pump that is more than capable. If you wanted to go reeflo I think the barracuda would be more than enough. If you would like to look at our set up let me know. I have it so I can do water changes have a manifold to handle reactors and what not.
 

Munch

Reef Shark
M.A.S.C Club Member
#30
Hey guys, I'm back on the plum question. I'm running an ADHI sump, and thinking I want a dedicated bulkhead with valve to drain water. Any reason to do a side mounted bulkhead vs floor?

The bottom would essentially drain the sump if allowed, while the side would be 2" from the bottom, and thus unable to completely drain it.

Both pics are essentially looking down on the sump.

Both bulkheads on side near bottom, upper is to my pump, lower would be for drain.
[attachment=64814:name]



Drain on bottom of sump:
[attachment=64815:name]
 

CRW Reef

Blue Whale
M.A.S.C Club Member
ex-officio
#32
Re: Sump location

Tough one.....I like the fact that you could drain all the detritus and junk that settles on bottom of the sump, but for future resale might make an easier sale.

Although maybe if you had it on the side you could stick some flex hose and create a vacuum of sorts to vac the rest of the sump assuming gravity is already creating a suction.
 
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