Metal halide lighting discussion
- Thread starter neil82
- Start date
From what I found researching the 250w 14k phoenix bulb, sounds like an electronic ballast will slightly under drive the bulb giving it a blue look. Magnetic will drive with more watts and give bulb cleaner bright white look. And you're welcome to come take a peek at my setup to see how you like it.
I don't think there are many companies making these anymore.. but hamilton sells them. https://hamiltontechnology.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=25_108&product_id=180
Took me a minute to find this, but tons of info here including chart that matches up bulbs with ballasts.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-03/sj/index.php
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-03/sj/index.php
Here is an interesting article I got from Doug a while back about the 250w Phoenix 14k bulbs lasting maybe up to 2 years. The article describes it way better than I could:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/ac/index.php
@kchristensen8064 swing by sometime and check out my 250's and t5's. I added to the canopy contraption, so it is a lot more stable now....but I think I'm still going to add a "floating" canopy too it as the lights brighten up the entire living room. You should see Andrew's 400w Radions too!
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-04/ac/index.php
@kchristensen8064 swing by sometime and check out my 250's and t5's. I added to the canopy contraption, so it is a lot more stable now....but I think I'm still going to add a "floating" canopy too it as the lights brighten up the entire living room. You should see Andrew's 400w Radions too!
The "m" designations are ANSI codes.
The ballasts with your aquamedic are european HQI ballasts (m80). They take the 110v line voltage and covert it to 220 and then euro parts. I have a few like this for a decade or more and only ever needed to replace a starter here or there - Chad has been really helpful in the past. Their Reeflux Cubes are 110v ballasts.
Here is the short rundown on 250w stuff: Double Ended and 20K Radium should be using m80 ballasts - these are all HQI bulbs. The rest of the single ended 250w bulbs can use electronic or magnetic (m58).
You can run double ended stuff or 20k Radium with m58 or electronic ballasts, but they are underpowered and the color shifts slightly bluer and the output lowers. ...not the end of the world, or anything, but still less than what they were designed to do. Select-a-watt Ballasts on HQI or Super Lumens gets closer, but still not quite like m80 in output.
The ballasts with your aquamedic are european HQI ballasts (m80). They take the 110v line voltage and covert it to 220 and then euro parts. I have a few like this for a decade or more and only ever needed to replace a starter here or there - Chad has been really helpful in the past. Their Reeflux Cubes are 110v ballasts.
Here is the short rundown on 250w stuff: Double Ended and 20K Radium should be using m80 ballasts - these are all HQI bulbs. The rest of the single ended 250w bulbs can use electronic or magnetic (m58).
You can run double ended stuff or 20k Radium with m58 or electronic ballasts, but they are underpowered and the color shifts slightly bluer and the output lowers. ...not the end of the world, or anything, but still less than what they were designed to do. Select-a-watt Ballasts on HQI or Super Lumens gets closer, but still not quite like m80 in output.
It's an old Current 3x150w halide 4x96w actinic fixture.
View attachment 14027
I got it for free so I was going to see if salvaging it was worth it. It needs work and I'm starting to think that 150w's won't be enough, so I'm thinking about going with a custom made hood with 3x250w. I'm thinking of buying the ballasts and then just reflectors to mount in the hood instead of pendant style.