DIY stand questions
- Thread starter neil82
- Start date
Thanks for the idea about using poplar. Maybe I should add a layer around the bottom. I also like your thought on getting the frame up off the ground so that water can't get trapped between the stand and tile floor. The weight is primary transferred down to the four corners, so I think the rest of the frame would be fine off the ground. How could I do this? I'm thinking along the lines of four 'feet' on the corners. Out of poplar?
I was going to suggest you cut squares (4”x4” or 6”x6”) or triangles and secure them to the corners underneath. My only concern (I edited my initial post from suggesting that) is that you’re placing this on tile. If the tile isn’t fully supported by grout underneath and you create a pressure point, you might crack the tile.
I think this sounds like a good idea. I'm going to brainstorm on this for a bit. The tiles should be getting full support from the mortar below. I installed the tile over a consistent layer of mortar applied with a trowel that has teeth to set the depth. Thanks for helping me get the gears turning on this. Trying to get this done right the first time.
Thanks Angel. I'll get a build thread going soon. This setup won't be all that sexy. Standard 90 gallon tank with frame. DIY stand. Black box LEDs. Limited automation. Primary goals are: simplicity, reliability, low cost of operation and maintenance. I'll have an apex to control the heater for redundancy and battery backup for the vortech pumps, but overall, limited reliance on technology. Not at all trying to knock the high tech setups out there though. Just not the path I am taking this go round.
For construction adhesive I only use the PL Premium one. I used liquid nails for a long time but then around 2006 or so they switched their formula to be more epa friendly and now I find it doesn’t work nearly as good as it used to. Nice job on the pocket screws. I’ll typically run a bead of adhesive along each rough element that I’m screwing/nailing. The PL has just a bit of flex to it so it can move slightly with temperature and moisture changes. Regular yellow wood glue dries hard and is super strong too but if the joint is jarred and breaks the glue bond then it’s useless. The PL is more forgiving in this situation.
Do you think I need to add any additional framing for reinforcement?
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Another angle.
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It has 1/2 inch ply on the back so that should add some rigidity. I was going to use some really thin ply on the sides, but could use 1/2 inch if needed for strength. The front will have removable doors attached with magnets. Does the stand look sturdy enough? Think I need the top frame cross member as shown in blue in the picture in 1st post of this thread? Not sure why I am second guessing this now...
just build it with 2x4's, prime it with kilz, and paint it.. should never rot...that layout is the best for stand building... dont need the center brace.... also build it to eye level when your are looking at the tank. build it too tall, cant see while sitting in a chair...or too short and you bend down to view it when standing.... also keep in mind the amount of room you have to do maintenance in the sump below. removing skimmer cup, cleaning.. etc... nothing worse than building a stand and realizing it should have been bigger....sucks!
Updating this thread and I have a couple more questions. I picked up a butcher block counter top made of poplar.
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Drilled the holes for plumbing to pass through.
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