First TiMer! 120g tank build
- Thread starter ruc_dog
- Start date
New plumbing
so i got a ocean motion and had to change the plumbing a little added 6 more unions and a couple more shut offs. and lots more flex tube! if i have to go to home depot one more time im just going to give them my pay check
let me know what you all think? i should be able to get the first test on the system next week
so i got a ocean motion and had to change the plumbing a little added 6 more unions and a couple more shut offs. and lots more flex tube! if i have to go to home depot one more time im just going to give them my pay check
let me know what you all think? i should be able to get the first test on the system next week
You've been busy. OM's are nice units (I was on the fence about getting a squirt a few weeks ago myself). The spa flex is awesome, eh?
Since you asked for feedback...
All of the elbows are going to add a good bit of head to the unit. I'm not sure if there's any great solution given that everything is being fed through the window. Double 45* elbows would have been better than 90* degrees but it looks like it's all glued up so it might not be worth the effort to fix. You can play around here to get an idea of what you're losing (http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/head-loss-calculator). You'll gain a bit anywhere that you can remove any of the hard bends and replace with a piece of spa flex.
If you can get a straight shot to the intake of the pump you'll lesson the chance of cavitation (would cause a micro bubble problem in the display). Being that you're going downhill from the sump it might be OK even if you do have to use an elbow. Again, spa flex would be better though if you do get in a bind.
Most importantly, you're really going to wish you had installed enough ball valves to isolate both the pump and the OM for servicing. Granted, there are ball valves behind the tank but it's going to make a pretty big mess when the time comes. Also, the easier it is, the more likely you'll be proactive on service. I tried to find a good photo but couldn't. You put the ball valves on the unit that needs to be isolated, not on the tank (hopefully that makes sense).
HTH! Keep up the good work.
Since you asked for feedback...
All of the elbows are going to add a good bit of head to the unit. I'm not sure if there's any great solution given that everything is being fed through the window. Double 45* elbows would have been better than 90* degrees but it looks like it's all glued up so it might not be worth the effort to fix. You can play around here to get an idea of what you're losing (http://www.reefcentral.com/index.php/head-loss-calculator). You'll gain a bit anywhere that you can remove any of the hard bends and replace with a piece of spa flex.
If you can get a straight shot to the intake of the pump you'll lesson the chance of cavitation (would cause a micro bubble problem in the display). Being that you're going downhill from the sump it might be OK even if you do have to use an elbow. Again, spa flex would be better though if you do get in a bind.
Most importantly, you're really going to wish you had installed enough ball valves to isolate both the pump and the OM for servicing. Granted, there are ball valves behind the tank but it's going to make a pretty big mess when the time comes. Also, the easier it is, the more likely you'll be proactive on service. I tried to find a good photo but couldn't. You put the ball valves on the unit that needs to be isolated, not on the tank (hopefully that makes sense).
HTH! Keep up the good work.
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Thanks for the info I think I could add some more ball valves just out from the OM if I needed but I added unions right out from the OM so it would have to be after I guess I could add another union. If the pump is not big enough I'll get a bigger pump for that setup and use that one for my sump just to make it easy on me. I'll deff look up my 90s on that site to see what I'm at
If you get stuck, there's always savko (http://www.savko.com/). They have some nice options that you won't find at Home Depot. Perhaps there is someone on the board knows of a local source for similar stuff?
What's "ruc" by the way?
What's "ruc" by the way?
Welcome aboard and sorry for not responding earlier.....work is a b......
Next time you design a system, you might be able to forget about the valve on the drains. I don't think
you'd ever need to throttle down how much goes back to the sump. The more the better
Also, valves
are a magnet for calcifying deposits that will clog quicker.
Just a thought
Next time you design a system, you might be able to forget about the valve on the drains. I don't think
you'd ever need to throttle down how much goes back to the sump. The more the better
Also, valvesare a magnet for calcifying deposits that will clog quicker.
Just a thought