Wow, ton of work. LOL on missing fish, do you have a dog or cat? If you don't see good results you may also want to get to bare bottom since HT parasite treatments are usually described as requiring such for frequent siphoning (so the Ich don't have a haven during their non-host stages). Many fish live for years in sterile tanks, so a few months will be no fun but won't hurt 'em as bad as Ich.
Miracle ich treatment?
- Thread starter Cake_Boss
- Start date
Ok, I might remove all the sand then. I've been reading a ton of RC threads on ich, fallow period for 6-8 weeks, some say 9 weeks to be sure, ouch.
I'm gonna do 4-5 weeks on the Kordon, then switch to Cupramine for another 3-4 weeks, to really kill everything. Yes a little more stress, but I'll watch the fish closely everyday to make sure they're ok. Unless hear/read otherwise...
Another funny thing, when I was putting the LR back in the DT after all this hullubaloo, my Randall's OrangeStripe Goby (which apparently I forgot about) jumped out! That little guy survived a good half hour out of water?! Guess he got lucky and found some crevace with some water in it, wow. His new name is "Trooper". Happily in my HT now.
I'm gonna do 4-5 weeks on the Kordon, then switch to Cupramine for another 3-4 weeks, to really kill everything. Yes a little more stress, but I'll watch the fish closely everyday to make sure they're ok. Unless hear/read otherwise...
Another funny thing, when I was putting the LR back in the DT after all this hullubaloo, my Randall's OrangeStripe Goby (which apparently I forgot about) jumped out! That little guy survived a good half hour out of water?! Guess he got lucky and found some crevace with some water in it, wow. His new name is "Trooper". Happily in my HT now.
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I'm so upset, a few fish deaths. Been medicating in the HT for a week, three capfuls of IchAttack twice a day. Every day, even though any white spots are all gone, the fish look more and more lethargic, then half dead the last few days. Most hiding and never coming out. One clown only hovering verticle, like his swim bladder went kaput. I panic'd and threw out the dead fish, and transferred everyone else back to the DT to see how they fair with no medication. My favorite pretty (and big) Lemonpeel has been perfectly happy and eating everything and active all over for a month, then found her dead this morning. I almost cried.
I know probably should've let them be, but was afraid they'd all just die off in the HT. At least they might have a little chance in the DT with no medication stressing them out, I dunno.
All my anemones and corals are happy as can be, WTF?! Same with all hermits & shrimp, totally fine. I was raised to think that fish were easy and corals and inverts were all delicate, sensitive, and difficult. *sigh*
I know probably should've let them be, but was afraid they'd all just die off in the HT. At least they might have a little chance in the DT with no medication stressing them out, I dunno.
All my anemones and corals are happy as can be, WTF?! Same with all hermits & shrimp, totally fine. I was raised to think that fish were easy and corals and inverts were all delicate, sensitive, and difficult. *sigh*
Ghosty, that really, really sucks. Sorry to hear bro. Been right there with ya.
Are you POSITIVE its Ich? If not, I would take a fish that died very recently to Patrick at Neptune's for a scrape. If you don't have a positive ID, you need one pronto.
If you are positive, I would definitely switch treatments. I know there are big fans of Kordon's around here, but based on my research I read about more failures than successes with it. Since another tank transfer could kill the survivors, my suggestion would be display tank hypo if you can (all inverts out). Right now, the fish are back to non-medicated but infested tank.
Second vote would be back to HT with quinine meds or hypo (or copper, in that order, as this is least damaging to most).
Good luck.
Are you POSITIVE its Ich? If not, I would take a fish that died very recently to Patrick at Neptune's for a scrape. If you don't have a positive ID, you need one pronto.
If you are positive, I would definitely switch treatments. I know there are big fans of Kordon's around here, but based on my research I read about more failures than successes with it. Since another tank transfer could kill the survivors, my suggestion would be display tank hypo if you can (all inverts out). Right now, the fish are back to non-medicated but infested tank.
Second vote would be back to HT with quinine meds or hypo (or copper, in that order, as this is least damaging to most).
Good luck.
Yeah, might tear apart my DT AGAIN, and transfer the few fish back to HT, do a 50% water change, then start dosing Cupramine instead. I got it from Drs.Foster&Smith, decent price. I left the idiot Damsels in the HT to keep the bio cycle going, also left the Spotted Mandarin little guy since he seems fine and has no spots, and didn't wanna lose his tiny self in the big DT.
My two (orange female) Lyretail Anthas and Coral Beauty seem to be fine in the DT, but the Marine Betta is M.I.A.
Hope it's still alive somewhere behind all the rocks...
My two (orange female) Lyretail Anthas and Coral Beauty seem to be fine in the DT, but the Marine Betta is M.I.A.
Hope it's still alive somewhere behind all the rocks...Re: Miracle ich treatment?
I was going to throw a hissy fit, but it seems this course is helping some people out, so it shall continue for now.
On a more direct note, anyone want to split a kilo with me? I real don't want to spend $180, when I need $0.10 worth. $90, well that's a different story
Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk HD
I was going to throw a hissy fit, but it seems this course is helping some people out, so it shall continue for now.
On a more direct note, anyone want to split a kilo with me? I real don't want to spend $180, when I need $0.10 worth. $90, well that's a different story
Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk HD
What about this? Enough CP for full treatment of 300 gallons for $45
http://www.amazon.com/Quine-Forte-Chloroquine-Phosphate-Powder/dp/B009TAPPUM
That's what I would have used when I decided to go Quinine meds. However I needed it next day, and there were no CP options of quinine that could overnight ship. So as I said above I used QS instead (Crypto Pro, from National Fish Pharmacy). Just FYI in case you need it tomorrow (or yesterday).
http://www.amazon.com/Quine-Forte-Chloroquine-Phosphate-Powder/dp/B009TAPPUM
That's what I would have used when I decided to go Quinine meds. However I needed it next day, and there were no CP options of quinine that could overnight ship. So as I said above I used QS instead (Crypto Pro, from National Fish Pharmacy). Just FYI in case you need it tomorrow (or yesterday).
Clowns, Blue Tang, and male Anthias all died. What I got left (all seem healthy) are:
DT: Two female Anthias (pretty shy), Marine Betta (super shy but still alive), Coral Beauty (active and happy), Green Spotted Mandarin (active). All RBT's, corals, and inverts are happy and thriving too.
HT: Three Gree Chromis. Gonna keep them there to keep the bio cycle going. Plus they're pigs that out-compete everyone for food.
No plans yet on what I wanna do before adding anymore fish. Maybe change most (3/4) of the water in HT, move everyone back, and try Cupramine this time, leaving DT fallow for six weeks. Definitely not gonna add any new fish yet though.
DT: Two female Anthias (pretty shy), Marine Betta (super shy but still alive), Coral Beauty (active and happy), Green Spotted Mandarin (active). All RBT's, corals, and inverts are happy and thriving too.
HT: Three Gree Chromis. Gonna keep them there to keep the bio cycle going. Plus they're pigs that out-compete everyone for food.
No plans yet on what I wanna do before adding anymore fish. Maybe change most (3/4) of the water in HT, move everyone back, and try Cupramine this time, leaving DT fallow for six weeks. Definitely not gonna add any new fish yet though.
K, sounds good. Like I said, ALL corals, nems, & inverts are thriving, the RBT's are growing huge since I bought them, and ready to split it looks like! So the water quality "shouldn't" be what's stressing any fish to succumb to ich. That's the most frustrating thing when you don't know the ROOT cause.
On happier note, everything left is doing great, lol! I wish the Marine Betta would come out more but I guess they're shy by nature?
On happier note, everything left is doing great, lol! I wish the Marine Betta would come out more but I guess they're shy by nature?
Well that's good news! I had Ich wipe out my entire tank, then one highly resistant survivor (wrasse) lived for 3 months in the tank. It never scratched or had a single spot. I thought it was gone for good. Then I put a porcupine puffer in the tank (from Diver's Den followed by my own full QT), 1 week later it had spots. Go figure.
Sounds like some of the fish you are planning have less natural resistance, maybe all the more reason to try to go fallow. Mandarins are highly resistant and almost never die from Ich, Tangs/clowns least resistant, the others are all in the middle. FWIW rabbitfish/foxfaces are on the same level as mandarins.
Sounds like some of the fish you are planning have less natural resistance, maybe all the more reason to try to go fallow. Mandarins are highly resistant and almost never die from Ich, Tangs/clowns least resistant, the others are all in the middle. FWIW rabbitfish/foxfaces are on the same level as mandarins.
Off-topic, concerning my Marine Betta. Guess they're kinda nocturnal, and all love to hide for the first few months at least. I just hope it's getting enough food.
http://www.reefs.org/forums/topic27478.html
http://www.reefs.org/forums/topic27478.html
Chloroquine Phosphate: OK, I'm back to researching this path myself. I've been running ultra-low salinity (not full hypo), and still see spots come and go on fish of mine with weaker natural resistance. This is not a big surprise as I have been making tank changes quite a bit, but I am starting to worry about the length of time some of my fish have been in this very low salinity. Going on 3 weeks. I'm going to possibly get back to normal salinity and run CP. I can always stop and pull back to do a full hypo run. Anyway, here's a few goodies I found:
25g-100g CP packets on ebay for much cheaper. I'm going to ask the seller how these are produced, hm. Little risky I guess. He probably just buys it in bulk from Fishman and weighs/bags himself. No bad comments yet so maybe it's OK???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321054332780?hlp=false&var=
Also, I found a letter that Bob Goemans wrote to a guy on best practice for using CP. See below. Following this treatment through, you'd need to have 200mg/gallon on hand.
As for treatment, maintain proper specific gravity (1.024 – 26) and recommend an initial 20 mg/l, so that’s twice the amount you’re planning on. Thereafter, a 10mg/l dosage every 7 – 10 days for the next three treatments. (total of 4 treatments) Of course, during treatment, any phosphate removing product (CP will kill-off any algae) should be discontinued, as should activated carbon and/or ozone and skimming/UV. Once treatments are concluded, those products/devices and/or Poly-Filters can be used as needed.
As for water changes, a small change (20 gallons in your size aqu.) between each additional treatment is thought helpful, and also at the end of treatment. Otherwise, CP will be removed by the media mentioned above
25g-100g CP packets on ebay for much cheaper. I'm going to ask the seller how these are produced, hm. Little risky I guess. He probably just buys it in bulk from Fishman and weighs/bags himself. No bad comments yet so maybe it's OK???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321054332780?hlp=false&var=
Also, I found a letter that Bob Goemans wrote to a guy on best practice for using CP. See below. Following this treatment through, you'd need to have 200mg/gallon on hand.
As for treatment, maintain proper specific gravity (1.024 – 26) and recommend an initial 20 mg/l, so that’s twice the amount you’re planning on. Thereafter, a 10mg/l dosage every 7 – 10 days for the next three treatments. (total of 4 treatments) Of course, during treatment, any phosphate removing product (CP will kill-off any algae) should be discontinued, as should activated carbon and/or ozone and skimming/UV. Once treatments are concluded, those products/devices and/or Poly-Filters can be used as needed.
As for water changes, a small change (20 gallons in your size aqu.) between each additional treatment is thought helpful, and also at the end of treatment. Otherwise, CP will be removed by the media mentioned above