The Dr. Has gone insane Re-build
- Thread starter Dr.DiSilicate
- Start date
You can get a 50' box of it for like $130-140 at Home Depot. I would do it. I am practically doing the same thing in my office, except not on a slab. I have a box and might even have some left over after I am done.
You are smarter than the people on RC. You also know your situation better. The bio-cube-generation on RC is mostly unable to think outside of the box - the ones that you want to help you are rarely around anymore.
You are smarter than the people on RC. You also know your situation better. The bio-cube-generation on RC is mostly unable to think outside of the box - the ones that you want to help you are rarely around anymore.
I agree with the rc comment. I just need to run a 1.5" return, a 1.5" supply and a 3/4" emergency return. The other worry is that it runs 15 feet with very little drop (maybe 1 foot). just the height of the stand really then 3 feet into the 75 gallon sump. At the end of the 15 feet it'll need to rise up to follow the duct work before the final drop into the sump. I'll need to look again in the am to see it this it will work.
The rise is only 6" or so and occurs after a total drop of 4 feet from the bottom of the tank. I think no problem. I also found flexible PVC on line. It's actually schedule 40 so it uses the same glue and fittings as the rigid pipe and such. It also comes in sizes from 1/2 to 3" and up to 200 foot lengths. It's also a bit less expensive than the spa flex. It is capable of handeling like 60 psi so no problem their as the return will inly be at like 5 psi. The drain sizes are already set as the tank is drilled. The return size is based on reeflo suggestion. They said that the 1" I wanted to use would add quite a bit of head pressure so I'll be running the 1.5" to the tank and changing to 1" at the bulkhead.
Which sequence are you using?
Necking down the pipe can really increase the flow and head since your pump won't have the extra weight of the water in the 1.5" pipe to overcome - less back pressure. I have a Ampmaster with a 1.5" output going into a manifold, then it will get necked down to 1" right after to go upstairs. The difference in the weight is the ratio of the radius squared - the 1 inch pipe has a weight of 0.785 and the 1.5 is 1.776, so the 1.5 is over twice as heavy. You can get like 50 feet of head out of a Ampmaster 3000 with a garden hose and only like 20 feet out of 1.5 PVC. There is undoubtedly some pipe friction from the smaller pipe, but it is going to be WAY easier to overcome than the extra weight. I guess what I am trying to say is that I would recommend that you look into using the same size line that your intake can handle - it might be worth a call to sequence.
In a flow situation (no head), then I would go as large as possible.
Necking down the pipe can really increase the flow and head since your pump won't have the extra weight of the water in the 1.5" pipe to overcome - less back pressure. I have a Ampmaster with a 1.5" output going into a manifold, then it will get necked down to 1" right after to go upstairs. The difference in the weight is the ratio of the radius squared - the 1 inch pipe has a weight of 0.785 and the 1.5 is 1.776, so the 1.5 is over twice as heavy. You can get like 50 feet of head out of a Ampmaster 3000 with a garden hose and only like 20 feet out of 1.5 PVC. There is undoubtedly some pipe friction from the smaller pipe, but it is going to be WAY easier to overcome than the extra weight. I guess what I am trying to say is that I would recommend that you look into using the same size line that your intake can handle - it might be worth a call to sequence.
In a flow situation (no head), then I would go as large as possible.
I will be using the barracuda. My choice of pipe size was based on a call to reeflo. I also am only pushing the water up about 10 total feet, if that. They said the resistance from friction was greater than the weight for my particular application. So 1.5" it is for the run through the heat vent. I am going to reduce to 1" pipe at the bulkhead and then 2x.75" loc line in the tank. I will absolutely need to throttle the pump back to get the flow that I need but am getting a very good deal on the pump so I am happy to do so. I originally was going use the blow hole 2700 but would be close to maxed out with about the same power usage. I will also have plenty of room to upgrade with a frag tank or whatever I decide to run off the manifold.
After cleaning the basement, this was a storage area, I have the sump and troth set up. Thanks Craig for letting me borrow the troth. I have this up and running with live rock from my tank. I have a hammerhead pump dialed way back! Need to get it cycled to help with the upcoming move. I'll just need to plumb the new tank into it and should be good to go. Thanks mike and Cindy, Craig, Feed and Doug for the tank tours and advice! Also, thanks to Vince from great white aquatics for the great price on the hammerhead pump, and all the advice.
I wanted to share my finding with you on running thru ductwork. While reserching to run a control wire thru my duct i found that there is "plenum rated" wire. With the difference being that if there was a fire and the wire was burning in your duct work it would not spread toxic smoke through your house. This is something you might want to research further or at least be aware of.
Dr.HarlemTutu;265066 said:
After cleaning the basement, this was a storage area, I have the sump and troth set up. Thanks Craig for letting me borrow the troth. I have this up and running with live rock from my tank. I have a hammerhead pump dialed way back! Need to get it cycled to help with the upcoming move. I'll just need to plumb the new tank into it and should be good to go. Thanks mike and Cindy, Craig, Feed and Doug for the tank tours and advice! Also, thanks to Vince from great white aquatics for the great price on the hammerhead pump, and all the advice.
