Recent content by jda123

You might be able to find bulbs if you look really hard. The bulbs show up some times on ebay or elsewhere. Since you have some that work, you have time to look. If you want to use a commercial unit, then the top usually needs to come off since the humidity and heat will ruin most units...

Have sold old, dirty tanks and stand. Free in Longmont. 135g 72x28x18 - 3 holes for CL that have bulkheads in them. 2 for 1.5" bulkhead drains. Needs some silicone scraped off where I put a baffle in. 40 breeder with 1.5 inch hole in right side. 40 breeder with metal stand - no drilled...

I have many bar clams if you need to borrow some. Longmont.

Tenecor is out of business. :( Got to reef2reef and see if more of those folks know anything. I don't even know for sure if that is a problem, or not. It looks bad, but it might be OK. They have a bit more volume for an emergency. My guess is that somebody will say to see if Weld-On 4 will...

If you do decide to heavily use kalk, get a gallon of Muriatic Acid at the hardware store. You can use it to bring pH down if you ever make a mistake with the kalk. It will lower pH very rapidly by turning alk into co2 (not exactly, but close enough for this). It will deplete your alk, but...

If that is acrylic, you can put a patch block over it on the inside. Like 3/4x3/4 and an inch longer than the area (on each side) usually will work. You will have drain far enough for weld-on to adhere. It will be ugly, but works. I have done it in the past a lot with tanks that others have...

20 years into LEDs and there is still no way around this... you still need full daylight to render the best color in most true coral. Then, you can blue it up all that you want to illuminate. Horrible false equivalency, but think of daylight as exercise, diet and skin & body care. Blue light...

It has a ph well over 12. A couple of ounces in a 50 gallon tank can raise the pH over 9 instantly. It usually short lived but can cause damage if it happens enough. It drives off all of the co2 on contact. It will ruin most dosing pumps. If you want to dose it, you need something where the...

Basic metal stand - bit of rust and dust. Tank was a sump - dirty and some silicone where a baffle was. I have another 40b with a 1.5 inch hole/drain out the side. Longmont.

I know that you love it when I chime in, but you hit one of the two keys for stable pH in surface agitation, which is covered. The other, is the co2 level in the home which is overlooked by many and probably deserves half of the content in any article since it is SOOOO easy to fix and nearly...

For sure. IMO, nitrogen and phosphorus always need advanced articles. The best hobbyists understand that no3 and po4 are waste products and that ammonia, meta phosphate and organic phosphorous are what is important. I don't think that you can succeed for long at a high level without this...

Also, aragonite, calcite and dolomite does not have to be saturated to unbind phosphates. Even at low tank levels, rock/sand are binding phosphates. Lower the water column level and the po4 will unbind - raise it and the rock/sand will bind more. This is not an absorb and leach thing... it is...

I don't think that it has ever been shown that anything needs phosphate to survive. Organic matter needs phosphorous (P). Orthophosphate (po4) is what is left over after most other forms break down - this is the only form that a hobbyist can test for. po4 is perhaps the least important for...

Have you chatted with Hemdal about this? He, as well as others, have seen long term mortality rates rise using CP while it does seem to be a good acute cure. Might be good to at least mention in your article that lifespan has been observed to decline on some species - and some wrasses and...

Lysmatta Wurdemanni are from the Flordia Keys, are the best at eating aiptasia and almost never eat coral unless they are starving - we would eat coral too in this situation. The others are hit and miss on both. Don't take a chance and buy peppermints unless you know where they come from...