Search results

The po4 is likely low because aragonite rock and sand bind it... in huge quantities. When you dose, you just mostly fill the rock up. This cannot happen forever and the next thing that you know, your po4 is hella high and then you have to spend a lot to lower it. Most no3 is low becuase of...

nh4 reading is likely a test kit error... especially if you are using API. Even if it is not, ammonia is the best way to get nitrogen to corals since they cannot process nitrate without first expending a bunch of energy to turn it back into ammonia. Corals that are not thriving often do not...

They easy ones are quite voracious feeders and typically need larger tanks to grow the grub that they graze. The specialized feeders require very special care. All of them require high quality water at/near ocean level parameters and not the way that most hobbyists like to keep their tanks...

Many people do this. If you think that any collector is doing any kind of QT before they ship macro, or corals, then think again. :) Make sure that the local laws and regulations do not prohibit collection. The person in the jeep/ranger with the uniform do not mess around. You can also get...

When the time comes, the emeralds will need fed. They can eat whatever is left over from feeding the fish, but they won't want to live on poop and nothing. If you keep them fed, they are good tank mates... if you starve them, they can pick at coral and fish, just like we would. They also tend...

Emeralds will work, but it will take them a while to get to the ones that you can see. They are eating the ones where they don't have to expose themselves right now. Just like the valonia did not explode overnight, cleanup will take some time too. You can siphon them out of the tank, through...

You might be able to find bulbs if you look really hard. The bulbs show up some times on ebay or elsewhere. Since you have some that work, you have time to look. If you want to use a commercial unit, then the top usually needs to come off since the humidity and heat will ruin most units...

Have sold old, dirty tanks and stand. Free in Longmont. 135g 72x28x18 - 3 holes for CL that have bulkheads in them. 2 for 1.5" bulkhead drains. Needs some silicone scraped off where I put a baffle in. 40 breeder with 1.5 inch hole in right side. 40 breeder with metal stand - no drilled...

I have many bar clams if you need to borrow some. Longmont.

Tenecor is out of business. :( Got to reef2reef and see if more of those folks know anything. I don't even know for sure if that is a problem, or not. It looks bad, but it might be OK. They have a bit more volume for an emergency. My guess is that somebody will say to see if Weld-On 4 will...

If you do decide to heavily use kalk, get a gallon of Muriatic Acid at the hardware store. You can use it to bring pH down if you ever make a mistake with the kalk. It will lower pH very rapidly by turning alk into co2 (not exactly, but close enough for this). It will deplete your alk, but...

If that is acrylic, you can put a patch block over it on the inside. Like 3/4x3/4 and an inch longer than the area (on each side) usually will work. You will have drain far enough for weld-on to adhere. It will be ugly, but works. I have done it in the past a lot with tanks that others have...

20 years into LEDs and there is still no way around this... you still need full daylight to render the best color in most true coral. Then, you can blue it up all that you want to illuminate. Horrible false equivalency, but think of daylight as exercise, diet and skin & body care. Blue light...

It has a ph well over 12. A couple of ounces in a 50 gallon tank can raise the pH over 9 instantly. It usually short lived but can cause damage if it happens enough. It drives off all of the co2 on contact. It will ruin most dosing pumps. If you want to dose it, you need something where the...

Basic metal stand - bit of rust and dust. Tank was a sump - dirty and some silicone where a baffle was. I have another 40b with a 1.5 inch hole/drain out the side. Longmont.

I know that you love it when I chime in, but you hit one of the two keys for stable pH in surface agitation, which is covered. The other, is the co2 level in the home which is overlooked by many and probably deserves half of the content in any article since it is SOOOO easy to fix and nearly...

For sure. IMO, nitrogen and phosphorus always need advanced articles. The best hobbyists understand that no3 and po4 are waste products and that ammonia, meta phosphate and organic phosphorous are what is important. I don't think that you can succeed for long at a high level without this...

Also, aragonite, calcite and dolomite does not have to be saturated to unbind phosphates. Even at low tank levels, rock/sand are binding phosphates. Lower the water column level and the po4 will unbind - raise it and the rock/sand will bind more. This is not an absorb and leach thing... it is...

I don't think that it has ever been shown that anything needs phosphate to survive. Organic matter needs phosphorous (P). Orthophosphate (po4) is what is left over after most other forms break down - this is the only form that a hobbyist can test for. po4 is perhaps the least important for...

Have you chatted with Hemdal about this? He, as well as others, have seen long term mortality rates rise using CP while it does seem to be a good acute cure. Might be good to at least mention in your article that lifespan has been observed to decline on some species - and some wrasses and...