djkms Ocean Adventure (detail, picture intensive)
- Thread starter djkms
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Thanks guys. I am going to do a long, drawn out post of what has transpired in the last 6 months. For now though, here is a current FTS
I also picked up the PAR meter today from DARC. So I obviously need to start ramping up my lights more, not impressed with the PAR readings so far. The LED's are currently at 62% Whites & 84% Blues. Lights are all 70 degree optics. I will do another reading at 100%/100% and see how it turns out. Also, spstimie said something about doing a conversion because it is indoor lighting and this is a older model Apogee, can you help me find out how to convert, it might have something to do with why my readings are so low.
I also picked up the PAR meter today from DARC. So I obviously need to start ramping up my lights more, not impressed with the PAR readings so far. The LED's are currently at 62% Whites & 84% Blues. Lights are all 70 degree optics. I will do another reading at 100%/100% and see how it turns out. Also, spstimie said something about doing a conversion because it is indoor lighting and this is a older model Apogee, can you help me find out how to convert, it might have something to do with why my readings are so low.
Kris, See if the sensor itself has any markings. It should have a model number on the cable
For example. SQ-110 is the sensor calibrated for sunlight. SQ-120 is the sensor calibrated for electric light.
A sensor calibrated for sunlight will read about 10% high under fluorescent lamps.
Also, I doubt this thing has been kept very well. It may need calibration.
The Clear Sky Calculator is designed to determine the need for radiation sensor recalibration. It determines the intensity of radiation falling on a horizontal surface at any time of the day in any location in the world. It is most accurate when used near solar noon in the summer months.
The calculator is found at www.clearskycalculator.com and is used by typing conditions into the Clear Sky model and comparing measured values with the calculated value for a clear sky. If the output of the sensor over multiple days at solar noon is consistently less than the model value (by more than 8%), the sensor should be cleaned and re-leveled. If the output is still low after a second test, email calibration@apogeeinstruments.com to discuss test results and the possible return of sensors. When used near solar noon over multiple clear, unpolluted days during the spring and summer months, it is estimated that the accuracy of the model can be ± 4% in all climates and locations around the world.
For example. SQ-110 is the sensor calibrated for sunlight. SQ-120 is the sensor calibrated for electric light.
A sensor calibrated for sunlight will read about 10% high under fluorescent lamps.
Also, I doubt this thing has been kept very well. It may need calibration.
The Clear Sky Calculator is designed to determine the need for radiation sensor recalibration. It determines the intensity of radiation falling on a horizontal surface at any time of the day in any location in the world. It is most accurate when used near solar noon in the summer months.
The calculator is found at www.clearskycalculator.com and is used by typing conditions into the Clear Sky model and comparing measured values with the calculated value for a clear sky. If the output of the sensor over multiple days at solar noon is consistently less than the model value (by more than 8%), the sensor should be cleaned and re-leveled. If the output is still low after a second test, email calibration@apogeeinstruments.com to discuss test results and the possible return of sensors. When used near solar noon over multiple clear, unpolluted days during the spring and summer months, it is estimated that the accuracy of the model can be ± 4% in all climates and locations around the world.
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I should be able to get a better understanding and reading at 100% for blues and whites. There is no model number on the cord or sensor.
Here is some info from the reef central thread that convinced me to get AI LED's
Here is some info from the reef central thread that convinced me to get AI LED's
I finally got my 70 Optics and was able to map out the par for the following:
1. All 40 Optics. (Same as the original AI Units)
2. 40s in Center and 70s in the outers (Same as and SOL Unit)
3. All 70 Optics.
This is only to show the difference between using the optics in different combinations.
The measurements were done with the following for all three measurments:
1. Two AI SOL Whites run at 100% Blue & 100% White.
2. Both units are 18" above measurement area.
3. Both units are evenly centered from front to back.
4. Units are spaced at the 1/3 and 2/3 marks from side to side.
5. The measurement area is 24"x24".
6. Readings were made every 1".
1. All 40 Optics. (Same as the original AI Units)
2. 40s in Center and 70s in the outers (Same as and SOL Unit)
3. All 70 Optics.
This is only to show the difference between using the optics in different combinations.
The measurements were done with the following for all three measurments:
1. Two AI SOL Whites run at 100% Blue & 100% White.
2. Both units are 18" above measurement area.
3. Both units are evenly centered from front to back.
4. Units are spaced at the 1/3 and 2/3 marks from side to side.
5. The measurement area is 24"x24".
6. Readings were made every 1".
2 things I notice.
2. Both units are 18" above measurement area. (which is way lower than what you have yours at.)
and... it seems like he is doing the test's out of water. which if that is true, once it hits the water, cut those numbers in half, if not thirds.
Sucks there's no model number. I would try the daylight test anyway and see what it gets tomorrow. At least then you could figure out if its an indoor or outdoor sensor.
Yes. plus add in the 18" depth of your tank...or was it 16"? Either way, over 30" to the bottom. The guy says those readings were taking from 18". which with that depth, you are getting 250 PAR. Which is about right, if the original readings were taken in air, not water.
I would lower them first. Unless you are getting spotlighting any lower. Then yes, Get at least 2 more units.
I would lower them first. Unless you are getting spotlighting any lower. Then yes, Get at least 2 more units.
