DyM Reef Journey

[DyM]

I feel you never stop learning, and the reef never stops evolving - so I wanted to take the time to do a first ever tank build thread, so I can come back and track the progress of changes. Here is an overview:

[size=+2]Tank - 72 gallon tank [/size](48L X 20W X 24T)


Sump – 40 gallon tank, plumed downstairs

Lighting - JBL light fixture with 2 - 250W DE bulbs and 4 strips totaling 270W of LEDs

• Halides (driven by Lumatek multi-wattage HQI ballast); 14K Phoenix DE bulbs.
• LEDs are DIY from Rapid LED, CREE’s (Royal Blue XTEs, and Natural White XPEs)

Stand -Built into wall, on steel rebar enforced entertainment center between Living Room and Kitchen/Dining area.

External Pumps –

• Return is Little Giant 3-MDQX-SC Inline Pump. (1100 gph)
• Skimmer and reactors are run from a single Pan World 150PS Pump (1100 gph)

Controller – Full Neptune Apex with 28 outlets total, 3 temp probes, 2 ph probes, and 1 salinity probe.

Skimmer – ETSS 600 Super Skimmer

Dosing – Randy’s 3 part (CALC, ALK, MAG), Occasional Kalkwasser (Kalk) lime water drip

Carbon Reactor – ROX 8 in right side of BRS dual reactor

Phosphate Reactor – GFO in left side of BRS dual reactor. Also separately drip Lanthanum Chloride (SeaKlear) once a month (5ml in 2L of RO/DI in a 5 micro sock)

Sulfur Reactor – Korallin C1502 Calcium Reactor with Eheim Pump (with no CO2 but CaribSea L.S.M. Sulfur Media instead of Calc medium)

Tank Flow - Two Tunze Turbelle 6095 variable speed pumps controlled by Apex. Return pump is about 300gal per hour since it pumps up around 13feet

Chiller – None, but have several fans controlled by temperature (via Apex)


Pics don't look nearly as good as they do on the iPAD. I'm hoping to improve my camera skills throughout the life of this thread.

More pictures later, I promise...

 

[DyM]

Total of 20 Fish:

True Percula Clownfish (2 - mated pair these fish are almost 13yrs old)
Percula Clownfish (2 mated pair down stairs in frag/sump with green BTA) Borbonius or Lyretail Anthias or Bartlett Anthias (1) (use to have 5)
Green Chromis (3)
Flame Angelfish (2)
Bangai Cardinal Fish (2)
Clown Yellow Gobby (2)
Blue Damsels (2) Hate these fish, need to fish them out someday
Flame Hawk (1)
Powered Blue Tang (1)
Yellow Tang (1)
Blemmy Lawnmower Gobby (1)

 

[reeferpueblo]

ahhh Dude your tank rocks!!!

 

[DyM]

LED Lighting
To start, we all have different lighting setups and I think going to LEDs can be classified into two categories: Either outright replace (or new startup) and be the sole source of reef light. Or two supplement / augment another lighting technology such as Metal Halides, T5’s, VHO’s, etc.
My particular case fell into the second. I have 2-250W Phoenix 14K's (on Luminex ballasts) and absolutely love the look, both color and growth. I also had 4- 39W T5's that I wanted to replace with LED's. My reasoning was more esthetics vice lowering electric consumption. My T5’s were 2 super actinic and 2 10K’s for growth - all on one ICECAP ballast. What I was looking to achieve was to provide more 10K growth light in the AM hours when I’m not home, and then have the more blue look for the great color pop with the ability to balance some white so it's not too blue in the evenings. I could have just run the 4 - T5's on separate ballasts so I could separate out the blues and whites, but I was itching to give LEDs a try.

Outcomes Achieved:
- Controllable/Dimmable (Apex)
- Have 10K for growth and yellow/red color development (AM when not at home)
- Have Deep blue for crazy color pop (have ability to do sun set and sun rising affects)
- Balance and supplement 2 -250W HQI Phoenix setup
- Provide light to poorly lit areas – mainly at corners and front (for a 72gal bow front)

Totals 270W
• (24) Cree XT-E Royal Blue Cool White LEDs run at 5W each (1300mA)
• (20) Cree XP-G R5 Natural White LEDs run at 5W each (1300mA)
• (12) UV 410-420nm wavelength run at 3W each (Rapid LED, no name) (700mA)
• (5) CREE XP-E Blue 3W LED (700mA)

4 Mean Well ELN-60-48P dimmable drivers or 4 Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable drivers

I went with the Rapid LED 48 Ultra Premium DIY Kit with Dimmable Drivers. I also looked into LED group buy and went with Rapid since I preferred the meanwell drivers from reading/researching. However the XT-E NW are better than the XP-G NW but Rapid didn’t have the new XT-E’s (only in RB). In the end I didn’t feel there was that big of a difference so I went with the kit.

From reading a lot of feedback that people posted they felt the cool whites were too yellow. Also, when I compared the CREE light charts, the Natural whites provided higher frequency output in the areas of MH or T5 bulbs. Later after my order, I realized that the RB peaks between 450nm-455nm but MH and T5 Bulbs peak at 420. I don’t know why no one is mentioning this. It’s the primary reason why I ordered and installed 12 UV since they are at the 410-420 wave length. I feel this is the critical factor why LEDs are not taking off. Well at least more than they are

I was concerned that the NW at 4.5K isn’t near the 10K. I wasn't sure if you turn up the white, and blue down, does the intensity of one to the other go from 20K, to 10K, down to 4.5K with no Blues? The answer is yes. You can play with the intensity to get the color frequency you want... nice.

 

[DyM]

Mistakes made with LEDs.
(1) First is part my fault, and part Rapid’s fault. I’ve read about how adding some blue LEDs were good for color pop. I decided to replace 4 XP-G’s (whites, but wanted a few less whites) with 4 XT-E Blue. Problem, they didn’t sell/include the Blue XT-E's and put XP-E's, which can be driven at a max of only 1000mA (but recommended 700mA). This means I couldn’t drive the blues or whites at 100% if I put these on the same string as the other LEDs. Solution was I had to order another dimmable driver to run these blues, than I later ordered and installed the UV LEDs on the same string.
(2) Second, the APEX 10V doesn’t drive or signal the third ELN-60-48D correctly. The first two Meanwells drive the RB CREE at 1300mA. The third driver is for the Blue and UV at 700mA. This third driver can't seem to dim when connected to the other drivers. So the Blue and UV sting are not dimmable, and have only on/off functionality. Not a bid deal but at the time of build and install, I was't happy about this.
(3) After install, I realized the 9” gap in the middle caused quite the shadow effect in the middle of the tank. So I ordered and replaced the 60’ deg caps and ordered 80’ deg for the 16 LEDs closest to the middle. I have more LEDs to fill this in…. just need the time to take it down and rewire. I'm planning to do this in July of 2013 when I need to replace my halide bulbs.
(4) Making each strip so I can disconnect and work on them. I had to do some quick connects after the fact and that was difficult to maneuver.

Total cost $627.80:
$80 4 – 48” aluminum 1" square tube from HomeDepot. $20 each (expensive but I really didn’t feel like looking all over the city for aluminum stock.
$365 For the 48 Ultra Premium LED DIY Kit with Dimmable Drivers http://www.rapidled.com/48-ultra-premium-led-diy-kit-with-dimmable-drivers/
$81.00 Order another Mean Well ELN-60-48D driver, more Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive, and 6 Violet UV 3W LED (do have an extra driver now - spare)
$54.80 Order for 16 80’ Lens/Optics , one Mean Well LPC-35-700 constant current driver, and 2 more Violet UV 3W LED
$47.00 Order for 4 x CREE XP-G 5W Neutral White LED, and 4 x Violet UV LED

I honestly replaced 4 - T5 bulbs on the icecap overdriving ballets every 8 months. I’m frugal, so I’d get group buys or Labor Day sales so I’d pay $16 per bulb, $64 every 8 months. So from a pure cost recovery it would take me 9 light bulb swaps to break even, at 8 month intervals that’s 6 years. I’ve been in the hobby for 6 years and these were a part of my original light purchase so I can see me keeping them for that long.

 

[DyM]

 

[DyM]

Power Backup
I’ve seen too many storms and power outages to leave this critical part out. I have a Neptune Apex, and two 24v Tunze power heads on a UPS unit that will run for an hour. In that time, I get an email messages, wife's phone get's text alerts, notifying us of an outage. I can try to remote in two different ways to verify the power is out if we're not at home. Also, I have two PennPlax Air Battery pumps that are plugged in and not running when the power is on. As soon as the power goes out, they turn on for the display for O2. http://www.aquariumguys.com/silentairpump.html
If home and power is out more than 10 minutes, I’ll fire up the generator. This is a Briggs and Stanton 10Kw (12Kw surge) generator for the whole house. It is sized to power the largest load (AC) and everything else to keep the fish tank operational. Also had an electrician install a separate electrical panel so I can hook it up, switch it over, where everything (reef, lighting, pumps, heaters..etc..) has good clean power. Considering there is more than 5K of coral and fish, I sleep and travel better knowing I have all the necessary protection. This coming April 3013 will mark 7 years I've been in the hobby. I think in that time I've experienced 20 power outages, and have though this through. Murphy's Law withstanding, I feel I'm protected.

 

[Haulin Oates]

Following! I'm really interested in your lighting outcome. I'm thinking about adding a 10-14k halide in the center of my LED panels for growth.

 

[DyM]

Things I'm looking to change. (1) I want to replace my return pump to run everything. I really liked Craigar's setup downstairs. (2) I want to dose Kalk using a reactor, and supplement 2 part as needed. (3) Automate #2 (4) I would love to control salinity more with topping off from either RO/DI or made up salt water. Problem is the Apex conductivity probe is terribly inaccurate

 

[DyM]

ahhh Dude your tank rocks!!!

Thank you - I'll post some old pics down the road, tank has been up 6 1/2 years, so it's evolved a lot in that time.

Following! I'm really interested in your lighting outcome. I'm thinking about adding a 10-14k halide in the center of my LED panels for growth.

At this point, I'm really happy with the lighting. When I get into the Apex, I'll post and explain my lighting and automation schedule.

 

[CRW Reef]

Tank and pics look stellar to me Dave!!!!! Man you have had a tom of growth since I was last there at your house!!!! Everything looks great!!!!!!!

 

[ialtalal]

looks amazing

 

[DyM]

Tank and pics look stellar to me Dave!!!!! Man you have had a tom of growth since I was last there at your house!!!! Everything looks great!!!!!!!

Thanks, I looked and this pic is from July 1st and noticed the pink birds nest left of the top middle - more than doubled. (http://www.marinecolorado.org/forums/showthread.php?962-FTS-s!!/page24)

looks amazing

Thanks, very much appreciated.

 

[DyM]

Maintenance:

Every other day I use magnets to clean algae from the front and back of the tank. The magnet scraper (best $12 I ever spent http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/easy-blade-algae-scraper.html) is used every few months as needed to keep the coralline algae in check.

Weekly tests are performed for Calcium, Alkalinity (dKH), Magnesium, and Nitrates using Salifert test kits. Phosphate is tested weekly with a Hanna ultra low range phosphorus digital checker. When I remember, Kalkwasser is changed out every four days and dripped every other day. ROX8 Carbon is replaced every 2 weeks. Phosphate remover (BRS high capacity GFO) is switched out every 4 weeks.

30-gallon water changes are performed monthly using Instant Ocean salt. I clean and siphon 25% of the Deep Sand Bed every few months, meaning DSB is cleaned every 12 months on a rotating basis. The ETSS skimmer takes between 10-15 gallons of skimmate out each week, totaling approximately 50 gallons per month coming out of the system. Cups of salt are dumped directly into the sump near skimmer as needed to maintain 35ppt salinity. Every few days I empty and clean the skimmer collection bucket. The skimmer is taken apart and cleaned every three months. A pre-filter canister is cleaned every 2 months and prevents debris from entering the Sulfur, Carbon, and GFO reactors.

The pH probes are calibrated every 2 months. Tunze pumps are taken out and cleaned (with vinegar) every 3 months. The return and skimmer pumps are serviced on an annual basis.

I have a 40 gal sump/fuge that is more like a frag tank now more than anything. Really just wanted a small portion for frags, and it's ballooned out of control (guess I shouldn't complain though, not a unbearable problem to have).

 

[DyM]

Feeding

20 fish are fed twice daily. AM feeding is flake food (Kens bulk food). PM feeding with 4 cubes of frozen food (3 cubes Brine/Mysis shrimp and 1 Marine mix cube).
Three times a week I dose three small squirts of “the mix”. This includes Kent products - PhytoPlex Phytoplankton, Micro-Vert, Chroma Plex, and ZooPlex
Twice a week I dose BRS Reef Chili at Night for the SPS… and everything else.
I’ve also dosed Cyclopeeze , Tropic Marin Pro-Coral Zooplankton, Reef Nutrition’s Roti Feast, and Oyster Feast in the past.

Supplements

Proper Calcium and Alkalinity supplementation as well as strong lighting have always been key ingredients to my success. Additionally, I believe in high import/export of nutrients via water changes, heavy skimming and heavy feeding of fish and corals.

Every tank is different, but each must take the time to find that balance between removing the right amount of waste and feeding the tank. I advocate keeping a slightly “dirty” tank (slightly detectable nitrates and phosphates) vs. one that is sterile (0 nitrates and phosphates) so being a bit heavier on the import side seems to work for me. Faded, less colorful corals can be an indication that corals are starving from too much nutrient export.

I also believe that stability is another very important factor in keeping a successful long term reef. For reef keeping parameters such as salinity, nitrate, phosphates, magnesium, alkalinity, and calcium should be kept as stable as possible. Perhaps the most important in my book for SPS is keeping alkalinity at a consistent level. I do everything I can to keep this parameter rock solid and not let it swing significantly over a short period of time. That said I dose once a day but want to move towards dosing with peristaltic pumps and a reactor.

 

[DyM]

I want to dose carbon for No3, and Po4. Although I had a bad experience as I’ll explain below, the colors and polyp extension observered when dosing vodka and vinegar had never looked better. I just don’t know if it’s the best option.

Idea 1: start dosing carbon, take so4 reactor off line and convert it to a calc reactor, and continue to use GFO

Idea 2: try the Algae Scrubber route, and use GFO as needed.

I’ve starting dosing only 1.5 ml of vodka each day for the last 6 weeks… I can see the colors becoming more vibrant and would love to go down idea 1’s path… just don’t want any SPS die off. I've read all the articles... ((Update Feb 4, 2013, I haven't been dosing vodka for about a month, everything is fine, but I do notice the colors aren't as vibrant))

Past carbon dosing: (1) bio-pellets, 3 yrs ago, which resulted in SPS die off. I kept reading how only the amount of carbon would be released based on need so I looked to solve why my SPS (starting at the base and working upward) were dying. Bottom line, once I took the pellet reactor off line, the receding stopped, and I was able to save some of the colonies. (2) Vodka and Vinegar, around a year and a half ago. At one point, my DIY So4 reactor kept leaking and I took the reactor off line, No3 climbed to around 20ppm. I tried at that time dosing vodka and vinegar using all the articles and never saw the reduction – but saw SPS base die off after I had been slowly ramping up for more than 2 months. I immediately reduced dosing in ½, and subsequently whined my tank off carbon. Not wanting to repeat what I saw with the biopellets. However what I liked about the V&V – was my tank as far as colors and polyp extension on LPS and SPS were incredibly vibrant.

 

[WatercolorsGuy]

Loving the detailed write up! One of the very first high tech tanks I ever saw...definetly one of the nicest tanks I have seen. Planning on learning alot about the high tech stuff from your write up. Great job!

 

[yOdaddy]

Subscribed.

 

[DyM]

RO/DI production and Top off.

First section will cover RO/DI, next I’ll cover the top off
This is a 70’s bar that hides my water making production and top off pump.

A Clear Tupperware tub that everything sits in

RO/DI holding tank, it’s an Americale old sump that has all the drilled holes sealed up – It’s roughly 10 gallons.

Originating water source, cold water (from the sink). There’s a vampire tap into the cooper tubing, sending water through 1/8 plastic tubing.

Solenoid (1/4" fittings and normally closed). This turns on the water on, normally off and closed, to make RO/DI water. This solenoid is controlled by the Apex. When is open for 999 minutes, the Solenoid opens to make RO/DI water until the switch on is closed. http://autotopoff.com/Solenoids/

This is a standalone leak detector. If any water accumulates in , this shuts off the water, and makes an auditable alarm. http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/leak-controller-detector-for-ro-di-systems.html

RO unit; bought a 6 stage unit through e-bay in 2007 for less than $100. All the clear housings and filters are standard, so replacing the 10” Carbon and sediment filters are what’s important. Input to the RO unit is at 80psi, and controlled via the vampire tap. My house pressure is over 100psi. The RO filter is changed every three years. The current RO filter is Captive Purity Hi-Silicate Removal TFC Replacement Membrane 100GPD http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem.aspx?idProduct=CP1811&child=CP1821
I bought bulk sediment and carbon filters from e-bay (seller Ace 2-0 Water), 50qty 1 micron sediment, 20qty 1 micron carbon block, and 20qty .5 micron carbon block. It’s enough to last me, well forever. All the filters cost $240 including shipping. That’s less than $3 per filter.
DI canisters: I use the color changing resin from BRS http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-bulk-deionization-resin-color-changing.html

Float Switches back to the Apex. There are two switches on a series circuit. I’ll cover more on switches under the Apex break out module. The float switches are from http://www.aquahub.com/ but I’ve ordered from http://autotopoff.com/ too and I find Auto’s switches to be a better quality build for the same price.

 

[DyM]

This section is the top off part

So the water is already made, this is the pump (quiet one 3000) to push it up over the door and to the sump. http://www.marinedepot.com/Lifegard...egard_Aquatics-RB3111-FIWPSBFT-RB3115-vi.html

These are the two float switches (each one on a separate circuit and not in series) to control the water level in the sump. The second switch is an emergency switch. Something is really wrong it that switch closes so if it does, the Apex will shut off and send me an email & text alert. When the main return pump is off, and the small amount of water back fills into the sump, there is still 3-4 gallons of room before this second switch is activated, I mention this to show that it was accounted for.

This is the door into our office, and fish room. Pumping water up over a door requires a more powerful pump. That is what I don’t use a maxijet, or an aqualifter for top off like most units or setups.

This is where I’m going to install a Kalk stirrer. It will be on a separate pump and not replace the top off features covered here. I have to play with the right amount, but I think I will have it operate 1 min every hour, pumping kalk (lime water) into the sump. More on this as I do the install

I ordered an Apex 8 outlet bar to install here. Today, I have the solenoid and return pump wired to go back over the door and to an existing 8 bar under the sump. Problem is that bar is now full, and I not only want to install the kalk stirrer, but also some dosing pumps. This will also free up outlets under the sump, and leave some expansion room for the future.